i need to re-tile my kitchen...?

Question

i know NOTHING about how to do it or what i need. Could someone just list all the tools and equipment i would need to buy or rent to complete this job myself? ie, tiles, tile cutter, ?, ?, ?... etc.
thanks.

Answer 1

You'd probably need a tile cutter, wet-saw would be best if the job is medium or larger. Otherwise a manual tile cutter would work, just more labor intensive. Wet-saws can be bought at discount stores for as little as 20 bucks. Some tile nippers will help remove small bits of tile or small cuts, etc. Your prep work will call for maybe snap line to mark straight lines for tile placement. Using a stright-edge will also help keep your tile straight, and using the plastic grout inserts will ensure you keep a uniform thickness between your tiles (size of inserts depends on how wide your grout lines will be). You'll need a float or trowel to spread the mortar or mastic. Once it's spread, you set your tile one it while mortar is wet. You'll need a water bucket with large sponge to wipe down the tiles after they've been set. This not only cleans the tiles, but levels the grout to a final depth as well. Wipe it while wet and it's fairly easy - let it dry and it's almost impossible to smooth your grout.
I suggest you search the web or get a book on tiling basics. The job is really straight-forward and fairly simple. Just familiarize yourself with the basic concepts and tips for doing the job. Tiling is far easier than most folks believe it to be. It's just a matter of rolling up one's sleeves and begining the job.
Finally, you'll need six-pack of beer when the job is finished.
Good luck

Answer 2

this depends if you're re-tiling the cabinets or backsplash, or the floor. The floor tiles are thicker and you would need a wet-saw instead of a small, manual tool for smaller tiles. If it's just the small tiles, buy a cutter (or rent the wet-saw). You'll need tiles, quick-set or mortar and grout, you'll also want to get the spacers for thet tiles so they'll be even. You'll need a metal trowel (sp?) and a rubber trowel and a bucket of clean water and a clean sponge to clean the grout off of the tile. If it's floor tile, you'll need to be sure the surface is adaquete, it may mean putting something else down or laying concrete. Check out www.diynetwork.com for video instructions.

Answer 3

Tile, tile cutter, tape measure, chalk line, square, marker, measure your kitchen first and times width by length to get square footage so you will know how much tile to buy. Depending on the tile you may want to have someone at the store help decide what would be better in your room. You may need a spreader, tile cement, or mortar mix and grout , grout sealer etc.....

Answer 4

you need a nocthed trail, maybe 1/4 inch. a tile saw you can buy for 90 at home depot, or rent one for the same price. a grout float, a level, a tape measure, a 5 gal bucket ( to clean your tools while you work) That's really about it. any hard ware store should hook you up as well,
If you hire a person to lay the tile the going rate is about 5.00 to 6.00 per square foot.

Answer 5

After installing thousands of sq. ft. of tile I suggest it can be a DIY project, but with care in learning basics, and prep work.

"RE-TILE" I guess I could ask you to define that. Is there tile on the floor now? If so, removal is a job in itself, then getting rid of mortar from the surface, checking the substrate, etc.

Of course the first thing to consider is the tile.... AND as important WHAT the sub surface condition and material are.

TOOLS: Anything major can be, likely should be, rented, unless you plan other, similar projects, including going into the trade.

Wet saws are fine for large amount of straight cuts needed, but I do quite well, often, with no more than a DeWalt grinder,using a steel blade, marking tile cuts, snapping and installing. That certainly applies to corner cuts, angled cuts, smallish pieces. I recently isntalled 1200 sq. ft. using no more than that grinder.

I suggest a bucket, a mortar trowel for the thin set, (1/4 inch teeth is acceptable), a rubberized trowel, grout sponge, a chalk line to re-establish the squareness of an area, measuring tape, possibly knee pads, rags, spacers,,, 1/4 or 1/8th inch depending on your choice of grout line.

Once you've cleared the existing flooring, and determined the situation with the substrate, check the "square" of the room, even if the existing floor looks OK in that regard.
Determine that with a framing square and/or measuring to opposing diagonal corners.
On a clean surface, snap a chalk line, then another perpendicular at a center point to begin the installation.,,,AFTER thinking the full sheets needed, and exterior cuts needed.. The idea is to have visible the most full sheets possible, and the least cuts needed.
You can even lay out tiles to get an idea of how many are needed and what cuts are likely.
Once ready, mix only as much thin set as needed, say 9 or 16 sq. ft at a time. Install the first 4 tiles, ( I prefer 16 or 18 inch) square them, properly space them, level them, without huge pressure, allowing about 1/4 inch BEADS/Lines of the mortar. Do not put your hands back on them to brace yourself as you proceed, then work your "lines" in what direction you choose,,,usually backing out of a room.
Use a spare spacer for any excess mortar that may have been over done, between tiles, at each joint. Remember that any void, may eventually degrade, and sound hollow when walked over.
If you have help, allow the helper to do just the cuts and mortar mixing. OH,,, remove base molding, and allow at least 1/4 inch space to any wall, at the the cut pieces.
Don't actually CUT the edge pieces until the full sheets are set, but once there, allow that the Cutter will do all the same size at one time, allowing that you can stay on task.
Assume too that this can be a 3 or 4 day project, as a DIY.
Allow the full sheets, set for no less than 24 hours, to allow walking on, without possible "shifting" Keep the spacers in until the end of the job.
Move then to all the edges, corners, angles, etc.

It's up you if you want to tile under a refridgerator or stove, cabinets need not be dismantled.

Once the edge pieces have been installed, and any other 'cut" pieces, assume you can being grouting. Remove spacers, and again, have water handy, rags, certainly a bucket, proper trowel and sponges, and again, only work in an area you can handle.

Messy or not drop a trowel of grout at a 4 corner spot and work it into the spaces, (after removing all spacers), with the rubber trowel diagonal to the "line". Don't worry about excess at the moment, but the idea of the trowel is to act as a squeegie, as well as applicator. Not strictly immediately, begin wiping at the grout, with a moderately damp sponge, removing as much as you GENTLY can, leaving enough watching for low areas.

NOTE: Depending on how you Stir/Mix either mortar or grout do it at the prescribed consistency,,, I use just a bit thinner than peanut butter. You can always add water in ounces, as you work it. Then be aware of air bubbles in the Grout especially during application and cleanup.

The WIPING AWAY of excess grout is more than a one stage process, and should be done only increasing the wetness of the sponge as the grout sets more strongly. There will be residue, even after dry, but it will be powdery, and can be wiped away.

Eventually mop the entire floor, replace the base molding, and enjoy that you can replace furniture soon.

BTW,,, without "LINKS",,,,,, HD and Lowes offer "Clinics" usually on weekends.

Rev. Steven

Answer 6

consult your local Do It Yourself Home remodeling Center for info- they might offer a class in tile installation
ex: Lowes, Home Depot

Answer 7

Hi there, go to this website, and do a search for tiling...they will have ideas and tips and stuff on how to do it easier. Good luck!
http://www.hgtv.com
http://www.diy.com

Answer 8

Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and talk to the guys in the flooring dept.They also have good DIY books for this.