I think free indeed2000 is correct. And, to make it easier, once you remove the molding where the floor and wall join in the room you intend to tile, measure the thickness (depth) of the wooden strips you're going to remove (provided it the same wood in both rooms). This will help you set the depth of the blade on your circular saw (i.e., if they're 1/2" oak slats, set your saw blade at 1/2" cutting depth. If the only cut you're going to make is at a doorway, you'll have very little problem since you'll probably use some kind of threshold in the door-way. You'll also need to use something such as a dremel to extend your cut all the way to the door frame. A circular saw in this case won't be able to reach all the way to a wall or door frame. And, if you have to cut a lengthy straight line, secure your 2 X 4 or other straight edge to ensure it doesn't move once you begin your cut. I had an assistant help me with that portion of the job. Good luck
2006-11-06 01:23:36
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answer #1
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answered by stretch 7
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depends what kind of wood flooring you have. if it is hard wood, set a circular saw's blade to a depth of about 1/2 inch and cut. it that doesn't go all the way through the flooring, go with 3/4 of an inch. Set up some kind of a guide like say a 2x4 to make sure you are cutting streight. if you have a floating wood floor, the fake kind they sell at lowe's that is just particle bnoard with a wood sticker on it, that stuff is only like an 1/8 of an inch thick and i would bet the edges would chip a little, but that won't matter id you put some kind of a strip down as a transition from the wood to the tile.
2006-11-06 01:01:08
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answer #2
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answered by free_indeed2000 4
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If you have old piece of your current floor , meter the thickness and set the saw blade at the same meter ,usually hard wood floor thickness is between 1/2 inch and 3/8 .
now, get one long enough piece of wood make sure is very straight ,stick to the floor and use as guide to cut a straight line with your skill saw, for the joint use a 1 1/2 molding, if you wont use regular nails use liquid nails glue
2006-11-06 11:36:57
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answer #3
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answered by Letal. 3
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If it was my house, I would take a straight edge and mark a line, using that as a guide, or even better, to lay your chisel up against...take a chisel (new and sharp) and start working along that edge. You'll want to be sitting in the room you are going to tile, with the chisel's flat face away from you, and working it towards you. Just tear out small chunks at a time. After you get a nice clean edge to start your tile from, use either a turn board at the transition, or a Schluter strip, either one will protect the edge of the tile from movement in the hardwood through the seasons. Just fill that edge with grout color match caulk, it will flex and not crack like grout.
2006-11-06 14:36:47
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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you will only cut a single line at the door and I don't think it will matter. you are going to tile over it and the adhesive will fill the cut. Then you'll need a threshold also. Keep in mind that the wood floor is nailed down if it's real hardwood.
2006-11-06 09:52:42
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answer #5
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answered by zocko 5
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Use a T - molding to transition from the wood to tile. It should easily cover your cut.
I used a chain saw to cut the last few inches that the circular saw wouldn't reach -- but it's neither the safest nor the most precise method.
2006-11-06 10:05:53
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answer #6
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answered by CPAKeith 3
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