I drove about 5 miles, oil warning light turned on, I checked the oil and there was none. I then added 3qts and drove 3 additional miles with low oil pressure. I changed the oil and filter, the pressure gauge went back to normal for about a half hour, but then went back to below normal w/ the warning light on. The engine sounded strong with no knocking. Is the oil pump the problem, or could it be something else?
2006-11-04 11:11:07 · 7 answers · asked by Al 1 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
it's a V8 engine.
2006-11-04 11:18:19 · update #1
Where do you think the oil went? The oil pressure continues to fluctuate? plz help
2006-11-05 09:26:27 · update #2
Where do you think the oil went? The oil pressure continues to fluctuate? plz help
2006-11-05 10:23:59 · update #3
if this has the original v6 then the engine will need replacing,they had bad gaskets and would leak antifreeze into the crankcase ruining the bearings.if this is the case then check with ford as they had a good will policy to help with the cost
2006-11-04 11:15:39 · answer #1 · answered by doug b 6 · 0⤊ 1⤋
The ford V-6 and 4 cylinder engines have a lot of oil pickup problems, -- if the oil isn't changed often enough , - they get the "oil pickup screens" plugged! Tihs doesn't seem to happen on V-8 , - or inline 6 very often!
Now the next problem is where did the oil go? And how much did the crankshaft bearings get damaged! When the oil itself is "cold" it has a higher viscosity than when it is "hot", -- if the bearings are damaged enough, the oil is "squirting out" between the bearings and the crankshaft! You might try 40 or 50 weight oil and see if the light stays off! Thicker oil to begin with will stay thicker (than reccomended oil)-- or STP additive to oil even when the engine is "hot". (If this works, you might consider getting another truck at this point)! If you want to keep it see below!
However, I would reccomend "dropping the pan,-( sometimes not an easy job because of front axle!) Then check the crank and "mains" and"rod" bearings for damage, -- it is possible that they weren't damaged too bad, and new "bearing inserts" will cure the problem! It will cost you about $100 to do it yourself, and maybe $250 to have somebody else do it for you!
From here on, -- check the oil more often! At least till you establish a "loss rate" so you know how often to add oil!
2006-11-04 13:00:59 · answer #2 · answered by guess78624 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
The best answer is to have a mechanical oil pressure Gage installed and monitor the pressures on cold start-up (should be 40-60 p.s.i.) then run engine until full operating temperature. If oil pressure remains above 15-20 psi at idle in drive range of transmission with foot on the brake you may need an oil pressure sending unit, if not ...engine damage may have occurred. Do you have leaks that have caused the engine to be low on oil? Hope this helped.
2006-11-04 11:44:11 · answer #3 · answered by Jerry E88turbocpe 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
First you need to know where the oil went. Does the engine knock or rattle when you start it up cold? If so the low oil pressure may be the main bearings. Also try connecting a manual pressure gage for confirmation.
2006-11-04 11:18:59 · answer #4 · answered by mad_mav70 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Oil pressure relief valve could have got stuck with grit when it was so low on oil. Oil pressure sensor could have gone belly-up. Run some sludge removing addative according to the directions and change the oil again before you go looking into the other more expensive alternatives.
2006-11-04 11:32:14 · answer #5 · answered by normy in garden city 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
it could have a weak oil pump or possibly a weak or plugged oil pressure sensor.
2006-11-04 11:20:16 · answer #6 · answered by Trisha 5 · 1⤊ 0⤋
ENGINE IS GONE.
CRANK-CAM- RINGS-.SHOT.
BETTER JUST TO GET REBUILT ENGINE OR NEW ENGINE.
DON'T LET SOMEONE REBUILD THIS ONE.. COST WAY TO MUCH.
2006-11-04 11:19:44 · answer #7 · answered by cork 7 · 0⤊ 1⤋