how do I build a cesspit ???/?

Question

I will shortly be siting a mobile home on a piece of land and need to build a cesspit (not a bought plastic thing) how big should it be ?, do I need to take into consideration the lie of the land ? what materials should I use. Any help however basic would be great.

Answer 1

Oh dear, are you in the UK ?

If so, you'll need planning permission to build it and permission from your local water authority and the environment agency.

If there is any possibility of getting to mains drainage they will insist on it, then they will choose an active accelerated biodisc type thing, then a septic tank, then a reed bed, then a cesstank.

Not being able to afford one is not an excuse as far as the EA are concerned, they don't worry about insisting you spend up to £30K on a system, so that includes all the bio-discs etc.

So, once you've proved to them that all the other are not feasable, you will have completes ground surveys, perculation tests, mains flow drops etc and you will have designed a system ( so therefore won't need to ask the question here ). Also , you cannot design a system yourself, the council insist you are insured for designing foul disposal, so it'll need to be a current chartered surveyor.

If you are going to do it yourself, and risk a £50K fine, then you'll need to do perculation tests to make sure where the water table is, then you need to buy a sealed plastic cesstank, you are not allowed to make them out of brick or metal anymore.

So, if they give you permission, it will have to be a "bought plastic thing" with certified calculations to prove to the council its the right size. You will also need to arrange for it to be empied on a very rugular basis by a registered carrier as a sealed cesspit is not like a septic tank.

There are standard water usage tables for mobile homes. A chartered surveyor will have those for you.

Answer 2

Cesspit Design

Answer 3

This Site Might Help You.

RE:
how do I build a cesspit ???/?
I will shortly be siting a mobile home on a piece of land and need to build a cesspit (not a bought plastic thing) how big should it be ?, do I need to take into consideration the lie of the land ? what materials should I use. Any help however basic would be great.

Answer 4

Of course the land is important! How close to river or water ways are you? How close to drinking wells on your own property are you? Surely, you don't want to pollute any one Else's water!!
Or your own water!!!
I dug a pit at a cabin, we piped it away from the cabin 100feet, and a 5% grade down all the way, then we put in a small concrete tank with holes, about 1000 gallons big, around the outside edges we put 3 feet in every direction of crushed stone.
We covered and back filled in the whole mess.
Because it is hard to pump because of where we live.
All paper is recycle paper no dyes, no perfumes!.
NO BLEACH or strong chemicals are used in the house.
We use vinegar, and ammonia etc.
My wash is drained into a rain barrel to then send the Grey water to the garden.
I also use a bacteria product called RID-EX, it is live bacteria that you flush into the septic system to keep it healthy.

Well I am no expert in construction terms, or scientific terms, but, knock on wood we have been O.K for 5 years by being careful
It some times takes us that long to decide to start the search for some Crazy Person to drive a Septic Truck out to where we live!!! And we have lived here 32 years total

Answer 5

the size of the pit would depend on use and frequency of use. if its going to be a summer cabin type thing, then a pit 5' wide x 5' long x 5' deep should be big enough. if you are going to live there year-round, then you will want a digger pit (8 x 10 x 10). The lie of the land plays a small role. as long as the pit is the lowest point in the plumbing system and is above the drain field, you will be okay. best material is poured concrete with iron pipe.

Answer 6

Michael H is absolutely right. There are a lot of regulations regarding septic tanks and cess pools. The water authority will need to be informed, as will the local authority and permission will need to be obtained. I would imagine there would be very substantial fines for anyone not doing this as polluting water courses etc can cause huge environmental damage really quickly. As for emptying, Yellow Pages will have contacts, would need doing about twice a year depending on usage levels.

Answer 7

All in all a Klargester would be best but if you really are set against it you will need a brick lined pit with inlet and outlet dip pipes, a reinforced concrete top with inspection cover and adequate sub-surface drainage that will depend on soil conditions. You should get building control approval for this and they will let you know the regulations governing size and construction.

Answer 8

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Answer 9

She did wash her hands and, unfortunately, clean wounds. In the conditions she was forced to operate in blow-fly maggots were an important factor in preventing wound infections. In those days most buildings incorporated a cess pit. It was a cleaner alternative to having sewage in the streets. Florence did not believe the then new theory that diseases were caused by micro-organisms so her efforts were geared towards cleanliness and ventilation as she believed that diseases were caused by dirt and bad smells. Cleaning bodies without regard to asepsis was a good way to spread germs.

Answer 10

You but soem form of water tight tank, fill it with a little water, and throw in something dead that will rot. I used a dead rat. The rest does it's self as the bacteria builds up. You must howeevr have access to empty it somehow. A chamber lis or something. The bacteria will break down the solids, but you must pay for it emptid every time it's full.