how do I calculate correct gap in picket fence palings?

Answer 1

By palings do you mean the uprights. I would use one of them as a spacer or for getting a good looking gap.

Answer 2

Picket Fence Calculator

Answer 3

Wow long answer, here's the short answer, just measure the paling and one spacer, no more than 2-1/2" Divide the over all length you will cover by the number you have, let's say overall length is 10' and paling is 3-1/2", so divide by 6" you get 20, which means you have 20 palings and 20 spaces. But you have one space more than the number of palings, 20x3-1/2" =70" 120" (ten feet)-70" is 50" 50" divide by 21 spacers is 2.381" or about 2-3/8" There's your spacing. Cut a couple of scraps 2-3/8" Start in the center and work your way toward the posts using the spacers as a gauge, and checking that you are still running vertical every few palings. You are rounding some numbers, so the last gap won't be the same as the others, but visually, most people won't see it.

There is no set number to start with, just not over 2-1/2" for safety of children. And you can make the original number for spacing smaller if you want less of a gap. Which means more palings. OK it was a bit of long answer.

Answer 4

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RE:
how do I calculate correct gap in picket fence palings?

Answer 5

I helped my dad build a cedar fence when we lived in Arizona. We just simply used one of the upright pieces as a spacer to make sure we had the same size gap between everything. We just turned it sideways so it made a nice small gap...about a half and inch to an inch I think it was...of course it would depend on the thickness of the boards you are using. But it is pretty easy to do it that way.

Answer 6

Not more than 2.5 " apart on a picket fence. Use a 1x3 as a spacer.

Answer 7

Reader 1 has it spot on. You just put another picket side on and nail the next one to it, don't push it tight or hard up, as sometimes you will have difficulty getting the spacer out, remembr to check the vertical level often and use a straight spacer.

Answer 8

Short are more organic and unique, now days everybody would like longer and shorter nails are approach easier to have

Answer 9

short neat nails are nice and neat. I dont like long nails because dirt can get under them and it look nasty
its digusting and gross when somebodys nails tend to be all chewed up to the ending.

Answer 10

This seems to be an easy question to answer. I could, hand in a thesis on the subject. Fences and their purpose, uprights and palings!
Fences are placed to designate ownership, privacy, to prevent intrusion , promote safety from elements, asthetic reasons and even to contain. To name a few, "a boundary fence", "the privacy fence", "the snow fence", " the chicken or pig pen fence", " the barbed wire fence", "the white picket fence" we know them all.

What about the hedge row, hoarding or tree line for that matter, are they not fences? We tend to say "the stone wall" ,but, is it not a fence?

We have rail fences, upright fences and solid fences.

To "fence" in or out is to defend as in "fencing" with rapier or sword.


Pointy uprights were called palings, they could be nothing more then pointy log uprights, or sticks of wood, they could be of wrought iron and with barbs added. No matter the materials.The purpose of palings were to discourage intruders and impale those that did. Uprights sounds a little more friendly!

The solid fence serves all purposes, but depending on construction materials, may act as a sail and be blown away, thus, the lattice material we think of as the "privacy fence". Snow fence designs, go through rigourous trials, in all of places, Japan. Rail fences may show boundary, but prevent intrusion or escape of only the biggest of animals. Rail fences are ladders of egress or entry, and may even be detrimental, accidents waiting to trap and befall the unknowing. Rails, on elevated structures, are banned in some places for this very reason.

Now, onto spacing of uprights, if you were using a 12" wide uprights and used it again, for the spacer to the next upright, I think the purpose of the fence would be defeated!

So, here is a simple rule to follow, never have spaces or openings for that matter, beyond, 3 3/4" and our most precious infants, will less likely, be caught up in disaster.
With this in mind, (1) subtract 7 1/2" from the distance between your starting point and the extent of the area to be fenced. (2) Now add 3 3/4" to the width of a single upright or paling, and divide this into that calculated distance from the previous step. (3) it will be one of two out comes, odd or even. (4) If "even" start at one end and work with placement and attachment from there to other extent. (5) If "odd", start from center and work both ways. (6) take "note" : you start with or end at the extents with the space. allowed in step 1. (7) you can adjust the 3 3/4" space to a lessor measurement, but try not to increase it! and never more then a smidgen if you need to!
I always hope the points aren't needed in todays world. I remember as a young child out playing football with all the kids around.
On the way home, we took the short-cut and after jumping from the fence our youngest goal keeper exclaimed "lookie, lookie, balls on pointie!"

Hey! hope it helps.... you will figure it out!!!