My dryer is not heating up. It runs just fine but with no heat. A fuse popped, replaced and it popped again. We even tried changing the heating coil and NOTHING. Dryer is fairly new. Any ideas. I am going crazy over here.
2006-10-27 13:55:42 · 11 answers · asked by Anonymous in Home & Garden ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
Let's look at this from a different angle. Try checking the hot air discharge on the dryer. If it contains alot of compressed lint, chances are pretty good that not only is the dicharge tube clogged, but the lint is backed up all the way into the dryer. This could cause the symptoms you described in some models. Before your dryer quit heating, was it taking a long time to dry a load? If yes, definately take a look at the discharge. Clean out all the mess and then go back to the dryer. You may hate me for saying this, especially if I'm right and you 've already gone to the trouble and expense replacing the heater coil. Depending on the model there should be 2-3 high limit thermostats in the back of the dryer. Typically, they are round, sometimes square and about a half inch tall. There should be at least two wires running to each thermostat. In the center will be either a red or blue post. That's the reset. Make sure the dryer is unplugged and push down on the post until you hear a click. If you don't hear a click, chances are the reset hadn't been thrown. Plug back in the dryer and give it a test. Good luck. If you're unsure at all, don't mess with it and call a certified tech.
One note to everyone who like to tinker with their home appliances-if your unit is still under warranty and you open it up to make a repair, most of the time that qualifies as grounds for automatic warranty termination.
2006-10-27 14:23:44 · answer #1 · answered by Mr. Daddy 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Where is the fuse that "popped" located? Inside the dryer or in your service panel. Either way you have some kind of short to ground if you are blowing fuses. If the motor runs and the dryer goes round and round then the problem is in the heating element circuit some place. The thermostat may be the problem. There are usually two, one near the element and one on the back side of the drum housing. If you are not an experienced electrical troubleshooter with the right test equipment you are going to have trouble tracking down a short. If you are in an older home with a fuse box and not a breaker panel, see that both of the fuses in the dryer fuse holder are good. You may only be getting one phase to your dryer which would explain why the motor runs but no heat. Be carefull.
2006-10-27 21:13:03 · answer #2 · answered by Justin Case 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
You are describing your problem but are not providing enough detail. What amperage fuse are you replacing? A dryer requires two 30 Amp. slow blow fuses. If you are using 30 Amp. fuses are they blowing immediately upon replacement before starting the dryer or immediately upon starting the dryer or after the dryer has run for a few minutes? If you are using fuses rated less than 30 Amps. this will be normal because the heating element draws enough current to cause even a 25 Amp. fuse to blow after just a few minutes of running.
2006-10-27 22:08:50 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
If your dryer is on a fuse box, check to see where the fuse box is being fed from. If the fuse box is being used as a subpanel, feeding from another breaker box, you might have a main breaker that has kicked off. If the heating element is good, there is a possibilty that the temperature disc(s) may be shorting out. The temperature disc are cut off switches that will shut power off to the element tp prevent over heating. The are usually dark brown/black in color, about 3/4 of an inch in diameter, setting on small egg shaped thin metal plate. they will have two wires on them, usually. One is a power leg the other is a switch leg and they are usually located on the cover of the heating element. Always disconnect dryer before attempting to work on it.
2006-10-27 21:24:00 · answer #4 · answered by rexallen 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
A dryer requires a double breaker, since it draws power to heat itself, and it needs current to turn the drum. So it is not getting the current needed to perform both tasks. It sounds like your amperage is in need of upgrading. If it is the old 60-amp with an old fuse box, you must upgrade to 100-amp service. And this would mean changing to breakers. It's a good thing that your fuses are popping, because drawing too much current on an inadequately powered fuse box would cause a fire. And never use the old method of replacing a fuse with a penny. Some people did this, and risked fire. So invest in a breaker box and the expertise of an electrician, who is the only person qualified to perform this operation. Then you will be safe and upgraded properly. I wouldn't even think of attempting this job myself. And it should be inspected afterwards. There is initial cash outlay, but it is worth it in the long run.
2006-10-27 21:12:58 · answer #5 · answered by steviewag 4 · 0⤊ 2⤋
some dryers have a thermo device which also can burn out, and is located inside the unit near the coils...which will prevent the coils from heating up.... but if this tripped something was wrong... and you need toaddress that issue... same with the fuse's blowing... there is a problem here..
2006-10-28 10:44:03 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
The dryer is probably okay. make sure the replacement fuse is a slow blow 30 amp fuse. something to remember KISS........keep it simple silly!
2006-10-27 22:02:33 · answer #7 · answered by aneagleheart13 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
sounds like a burnt wire.
first make sure exhaust vent and flex pipe is clean and free blowing.
outside vent you should free rapid air coming out.
if so you got a burnt wire stopping heating.
2006-10-27 21:05:41 · answer #8 · answered by cork 7 · 0⤊ 1⤋
you might try putting in a higher rated fuse
2006-10-27 21:04:09 · answer #9 · answered by GOMER PYLE 76 2 · 0⤊ 2⤋
I'd call the repair man
2006-10-27 21:00:21 · answer #10 · answered by Cam 6 · 0⤊ 1⤋