2006-10-26 20:44:04 · 13 answers · asked by LEE-ANNE M 1 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
Hello Lee Anne,
I will endeavour to answer your question, where others, offered alternatives or at best incomplete instructions...We will do this step by step, with a little explanation along the way. I might add, I do this for the challenge of explaining, that which I did for many years, and further more practice my typing skills. I do find it a challenge, to genericly describe that which has become second nature to me, in such a way, it is understood by the uninitiated. and to do it without cursing, it seems cursing is way to much bother, when you must think about it!!!...
A little Glossary, I keep looking back at terms or abreviations, I've used over the years and I feel that they may not be universal, so I'll explain them here: skip on by this to item 1 and return for giggle...
JAMB... means "the door frame as mentioned in question"
pcs....means "piece or pieces"
RSO...means "rough size opening" to some "rough stud opening"
plumb...means "vertically level" ie: as in parallel to the plumb
bob line, as it falls...
level....means "to be at 90 degrees and perfectly perpindicular to plumb" boy that was hard, without saying level in description
casing...means "trim pcs. attached to jamb & unto walls forming the finished trimmed opening of doors and or windows on the most part"
adjust {ed} {ment}..means "to make final"
DIY...means "do it yourself"
striker...means.."that little do hickee, the bolt from door knob goes into, thats set into the verticle jamb, opposite hinge jamb...
PP....means "Pre-Painted" usually white
(1) First of all there are a few presumptions made and adjustments to materials and or sizes will be made by DIY...
(2) an opening is required, it's sizing is called the "rough size opening" or "RSO" this is the same terminolgy that is applied to windows in general, albeit in windows usually, closer tolerances are prescribed
(3) the thickness of the wall @ opening is now determined, it is best to be the largest adjusted measurement as gathered from multiple samplings about the opening. A slight allowance is added to this measurement, for our purpose we will add 1/16", this is to allow for minute variances and some sanding,as required...
(4) I have found found over many years, that the RSO, as required, meets my requirements as so described herein, if it is 2 1/2" wider & higher {this was already mentioned}, then the width & length of the door to be placed with in the opening. The immediate framing members making up this RSO are the verticle members called "Jack studs" and the horizontal member called the "header" bearing upon them, which, may or may not, be carrying the weight from above and between such jack studs. It should be noted that jack studs should bear, on to a solid sub-strate, be it ,in new construction the sub-floor or in retro-fit the same plus solid finished flooring if need be...I am not going to mention the joists below...
(5) the length of jack studs will always be the height of door plus 2 1/2", with the variance being plus or minus the flooring material depending on new or retro construction, The length of header piece will always be 2 1/2" plus 2 times the thickness of a single jack stud to allow full bearing of header, at each side of opening, and upon jacks. I won't mention the trimmer studs that jack's & header are attached to...
(6) Now assuming, you have "A", constructed RSO, which is plumb and level, upon a level sub-strate, let's continue...
(7) The least expensive material to fashion your door "jambs" from is raw MDF shelving, and will be paint finished DIY, it can be purchased @ your "Big Box" store. This usually comes in a 3/4" X 12" X 97" size @ about $ 4.50 ea. You will require a number of pcs. depending on wall thickness, to obtain 3 full pcs. @ desired width.Take home the cutoffs for future projects, but don't leave yet, other cuts are coming...
(7) It should be noted that most "Big Box" store's will rip & cut most materials, to your measures @ little or no additional cost, light edge sanding to remove blade marking will be required DIY, both before and after final assembly and painting...
(7) When you have 3 full pcs. cut them to suit, following these instructions, two verticle jamb pcs. {these will be attached in a plumb fashion to above mentioned jack studs} the height of door plus 1", one header pcs. the width of door plus the thickness of the two verticle jamb pcs. plus again 1/4" for hinge and striker clearance. This pcs. will be installed and initially only, to and upon. the top of verticle jamb pcs. in a level maner. Much like the jack studs and header, fashioned the RSO...
(8) attach the first verticle jamb pcs. on to RSO jack stud @ location of future hinges. It should be noted all three pcs. can be nailed or assembled and attached in unison, keep all things flush in doing so, but the hinge pcs. of jamb is the first attached to RSO in a plumb fashion..
(9) the door is now hung @ and about 1/8" down from jamb header upon it's verticle jamb member...
(10) I will not here-in, describe the hanging of the door, as it was not within the question...
(11) there are two schools of thought when it come to jamb headers. One being on top verticles jamb pcs., the other being between. I have described the first instance, in as much, and because, I use a router guide from "leevalley.com" for hinge mortizing, and it guages, from the full length of verticle jamb members only...
(12) since I always seem to be the framer of the RSO, I am also more dilligent to the quality of my RSO and do make for closer tolerances, thus less shims are required
(13) it is real nice if the wall is plumb on faces, as well as ,the RSO is within the opening,and to most extent the jamb is to be. It is, of the utmost importance, to strive, to have the door edges and faces as plumb as possible upon completion of hanging, and once this is done, final attachment and fitting of the striker side, verticle jamb and header may be accomplished, and set within the 1/8" tolerance allowed for measures ,{max about the door}, with the help of purposely provided for shims. attach door stops, have someone, hold door flush to jambs on the side it will swing from, attach stops up up to door, from other side, and onto the jambs..note: space for paint @ hinge side in particular, to prevent binding upon same by door...
(14) the casing may be installed and were done, I think...now I'm going to read it over to see if it makes sense...
(15) before I go, I thought I would tell you, you can use any materials again, oak, pine, poplar, PP-MDF or just purchase a knock down kit and the method works for any size door....and for double doors add another 3/16" to header lengths...
GOODLUCK and GOODBUY
2006-10-29 22:02:37 · answer #1 · answered by diSota 2 · 2⤊ 0⤋
If you are building jamb stock, you are better off buying it pre-made.. A standard 36" door is actually 35 5/8" wide and requires an inside jamb opening of 36"
A door opening is 1" wider then the assembled jamb. 1/2" on either side. Therefore a standard door at 36 inches has a frame with an outside width of 37 1/2" so you make your opening 38 1/2 inches wide. Take the height of your jamb stock and allow 1" above for the frame in.
I'm sure William V will get on here and tell us how we are all stupid but this is a starting point.
2006-10-27 00:29:59 · answer #2 · answered by Braveheart 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Its best that you buy a Prehung door unit- but if you must- Door frames are made from Door Jamb materials, inside and outside are made different- there is no Standard, doors come in differenct sizes, Outside main entry, with be a a door 36 inches wide, gararge and service doors 2ft 8 inches- Interior doors vary for Rooms- a bath for example might be 24 inches while a Bedroom is typical 2 ft 6 inches- The door Framed opening must be at least 2 inches wider than the door size, for the Jamb. If you want a Framed opening for a certain door ask antother question.
2006-10-27 03:18:51 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 1⤊ 0⤋
It depends on whether it's an interior or exterior one. Either way you have to redo the frame to accept the new door. This is a job where you need a helper. But it can be done in a day. If you have a friend with building experience then I'd offer to feed and give him plenty of beer (after the job is done) Good luck
2016-03-19 00:29:24 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
If you're going to buy a door unit a threshold add 2 1/2" to the width of the actual door and add 3" to the actual height of the door.
If the door actual door is 2' 6" x 6' 8" the rough opening is 2' 8 1/2" x 6' 11".
All that space is to shim the door unit plumb and level and gives room to stuff insulate to eliminate drafts.
2006-10-28 12:43:33 · answer #5 · answered by Matrix 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
lay door flat on floor,use 1x6's or 2x6's depending on how strong youwant it,place them on top and bottm and both sides, place a 1/2 inch shim on the top and one on the side, this will give you a 1/4 in. gap around the whole door,mark your boards and cut then screw or nail together making sure that all corners are square. install frame in opening, attach door, then attach door moldings around the top bottom and sides, if it is an outside door attach weather stripping .
2006-10-26 23:30:08 · answer #6 · answered by donley z 3 · 1⤊ 0⤋
standard doors are about 3 feet wide (find the door you want to hang and measure its width). your door opening needs to be about 2 inches wider than the door, allowing 1 inch on either side of door, also 1 inch above. using a level. level all sides of your door, in doorway; you can level off the inside shim, using added shims to make certain that the frame is level on all three sides. you also want to allow 1/4 to 1/2 inches to be between the bottom of the door and the floor, to allow for your thresh-hold and weather stripping. once you have leveled all sides of the frame, you want to screw in the 2 or 3 hinges for your door. if an exterior door you want it to open inward. after note.....when you are framing your door, you can buy your door frame from lowe's or home depot, you can also buy pre-hung doors, where all you need to do is take measurements of your opening and measurements of your pre-hung door (pre-hungs have the door already framed with hinges, you just need to nail in frame). with pre-hung doors all you need to do is level and shim then screw in frame to studs.
2006-10-26 20:53:48 · answer #7 · answered by kaka 2 · 2⤊ 1⤋
There were so many woodworking plans with this collection and you will not believe this but there are over thousands plans in the one package deal. Go here https://tr.im/y0ckM
This is really something to find that many all together. For someone like me who is just really starting to get involved with woodworking this was like letting me loose in a candy store and telling me I could have anything I wanted. That was my dream when I was a kid.
2016-02-09 17:59:27 · answer #8 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
you can buy ready made frames in all standard sizes which are as cheap as buying the timber to make the frame from all builders merchants.
2006-10-30 07:28:32 · answer #9 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Nicely said 'kk'.
See link below for a visual aid.
2006-10-26 22:36:41 · answer #10 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
most large hardware or joinery shops stock standard sizes ....which is much easier and cheaper than trying to make one from scratch
2006-10-26 20:57:20 · answer #11 · answered by bluebottle 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋