An orange book called "Home Improvement 1-2-3" (avail. at Home Depot) is a great resource. That helped me tile my kitchen floor.
2006-10-26 03:25:22
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answer #1
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answered by IT Pro 6
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Are you tiling a bathroom wall or floor or are you tiling in the kitchen or even somewhere else? If in the bathroom (say around a bathtub), you will need to use a water proof substrate such as cement board to which the ceramic tile will be bonded. The tile are laid in your specific size and pattern with gaps left between (which will later receive the grout). Bond adhesives vary, but are designed for walls or floors, etc.. Ater the tiles are laid, the grout (a pasty mixture) is applied in the gaps, smoothed, and allowed to cure. The tiles are then cleaned once again and the grout sealed to help prevent staining through use. Floors are generally easier to lay than walls, but the secret is the substrate. Tile floors can be laid on wood, but the more stable the substarte, the better the job will be. When laying the tile, cuts have to be made. The best way to cut is with a diamond blade with water applied. These are available from places like Home Depot and can be rented. They also make nibbling tools that can make rough removal of small areas. Larger holes can be cut with a diamond coated hole saw, and smaller hole can be drilled with a masonary bit and hammer drill (usually after installation). I hope this helps.
2006-10-26 05:42:39
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answer #2
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answered by Doug R 5
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Clean the floor where you want to tile. Make sure there isn't anything on it. Depending where it is, floor or wall, you will need to lay a special glue. Try to keep the tiles to the same pattern at the front by looking at the numbers or letters on the back of the tile. And then put a filler/grout over the top of it. You'll need a few things. Go to a home improvement place and get some more tips there.
2006-10-26 03:28:25
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answer #3
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answered by Me 2
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1.We will begin this project by creating guidelines for the tiles on the sub-floor and doing a “dry run” – laying down the tiles without adhesive to see how they fit. Using a chalk line, snap a line perpendicular to the main entrance into the room. Use a square to make sure the line is perpendicular to the door. You will start laying out the tile from the main door into the room because you want a full row of tiles visible when someone enters.
2. From the door, lay tiles on the floor along the line you snapped. Use a spacer in between each tile. The spacer can be the side of another tile or another uniform object that will enable you to maintain identical spacing on all your tiles.
3. When you reach the other end of the room and can no longer put down a full tile, take a long 1” thick piece of wood and lay it perpendicular to the row of tiles. Use a screw gun to tack it in place. Now lay tiles next to this board going across the room in both directions.
4. Based on the amount of remaining space on the sides of the room, determine how much you need to shift the rows to achieve equal borders on both sides of the room. Snap a second line based on this measurement. The intersection of second line and the board will become your starting point. The first snapped line is no longer needed.
5. Using the notched trowel, apply a 2-foot square area of tile adhesive in the starting corner.
6. As you lay down each tile, work it into the adhesive. Use the spacer to make sure the tiles are spaced evenly. Use a level to make sure the tile faces are flush. You can use a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer to gently tap down tiles that are too high. Work your way back and forth across the room, covering 2-foot square areas at a time. Let all the full tiles set overnight. Once the adhesive has set up, you can carefully walk on the tiles to cut and install the border tiles.
7. To cut the border tiles, lay a tile exactly over the last full tile. Place your 1/2" wide spacer against the wall. Now take another full tile and place it against the spacer with the edges lined up with the other loose tile. Make a line across the first tile. This is the line you need to cut.
8. To cut the tile, you can use a tile cutter or a glasscutter. To use a glasscutter, put a straight edge along the tile and score the line only once with the glasscutter.
9. Place the tile on the edge of a workbench and snap off the cutoff piece. For complex cuts, you can use a tile saw or tile nippers.
10. Once all the tiles are laid and the adhesive has set, you can proceed to the grouting phase. Mix the grout according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Apply the grout with a rubber float at a 45-degree angle, working it into the spaces.
11. Wipe excess grout off the tile faces with a sponge. Be careful that you do not dig the grout out of the spaces. Once the grout has set up, you can go back over the tile faces and clean off any remaining grout residue. To help the grout cure to a solid, resilient surface, mop the floor daily for the first 3 days. Allow the grout to cure for a full week. Then brush the grout with a silicone sealer.
2006-10-26 03:28:23
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answer #4
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answered by Art 2
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i recognize the tile might desire to be un-glazed. If there is any style of end on the tile you mustn't cook dinner on it. while you're uncertain what unfinished tile seems/appears like then lead to any vast branch keep or cookware keep and take a seem at one among their baking/pizza stones and in the adventure that your tile seems/appears like that then you quite must be ok. till your tile is a pair inches thick do no longer placed it on direct warmth on your grill and don't placed chilly food on a warm tile through fact it is going to shatter.
2016-12-28 05:23:03
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answer #5
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answered by ? 3
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After installing thousands of sq. ft. of tile, and without wanting to use much time or space here, I do suggest even a DIY can accomplish it. E mail me, and if you wish a response have a valid e mail address included. Thanks.
Rev. Steven
2006-10-26 04:10:49
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answer #6
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answered by DIY Doc 7
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check with home depot. they give free lessons every week
2006-10-26 03:22:57
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answer #7
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answered by DASH 5
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