What are the geological attributes that make beaches like at Maui and Australia have such huge waves?

Question

geologically, why do some beaches have much bigger waves than others?

What makes Maui waves so big?

Answer 1

Huge waves occur wherever ocean currents can allow water to accrue energy undisturbed. Both Australia and Maui's coasts face huge open stretches of ocean.

There are few geological factors affecting waves. Examples are coral reefs or any islands which impede the path of water, or volcanic activity which would add thermal energy to the water- some of which would become kinetic energy producing bigger waves.

The surface of a beach would affect how far it can travel along it. This would be a direct correlation with friction- but it would be the waves power and erosive force which would determine how grounded down and hence smooth or rough the coast surface is.

Answer 2

Stephanie J is right ... coral reefs, give her the best answer, but I'll extrapolate a little. I lived in Lahaina, Maui and when you cut your foot on a reef don't put iodine on it ... it will feed the coral and you'll get a bad infection.

The ocean swells hit the somewhat shallow hard reef and the water naturally rises in sets with the the rhythms of the sea.

Then great waves ... the reefs on the north shore of Oahu produce forty foot waves in one spot and the Banzai Pipeline in another ... because they are shallower.

Log in to some Hawaiian or surfing web sites and you'll learn more!

Yours,
Jonnie
PS If you fall off a forty foot wave wrong you can get killed when you hit the reef ... you have to jump back into the wave so the water buoys you and you don't fall straight down through the air into the shallow reef. I'm talking about Wiamia Bay ( sorry, I can't seem to spell it .)

Answer 3

Perhaps this will help. Big waves can only be created when there is a large expanse of open ocean and with strong storms to generate waves as a byproduct of their winds. Shallow ocean floors, such as a continental shelf, disipate wave energy. Places that rise quickly from the depths of the ocean, as in the Hawaiian Islands, thus have much less resistance, producing larger and more powerful waves. Surfers refer to this power as "juice" . A Hawaiian wave is noticably faster than a mainland wave of the same size (personal experience). Many factors contribute to the size and shape of waves. Rather than go into this long subject, I suggest you visit surfing web sites. This I can say. The famous waves of the North Shore of Oahu come from having all of these factors working together harmoniously.

Answer 4

Shallow waters that extend further into the ocean.

Answer 5

coral reefs?