bleeding brakes?

Question

I have changed the bodies off of two truck frames so the lines have been disconnected and reconnected between the two. The brake pedal and clutch go straight to the floor when pressed. you do not get no fluid at all when trying to bleed them. I refilled the tanks but they drained empty when the body was off the frame.

How do I bleed all the air from the lines to get ready to start bleeding like normal?

Answer 1

Try "gravity" bleeding each system,to do this fill the fluid reseviors completely. Open the bleeder valves at each wheel and the bleeder at the clutch slave cylinder. It will take 'Minutes" before you see fluid leaking/let leak awhile/top-off fluid reseviors. Begin closing valves beginning with right-rear, left-rear,right-front, left- front. Close clutch bleeder when needed/ it will leak quicker. This procedure should give you brake pedal/after a few pumps. To get clutch pedal it will take a few more pumps! Good luck!

Answer 2

You can also put a small piece of tubing - going into a "fruit jar) - a pint will be ok. Have the brake bleeder open just a little (I assume you have removed the bleeders and gotten the dirt and stuff out of them so the fluid can run through)! Depending on what you have available for "tubing" - you could put it on top of a box or something to get it close to the wheel cylinder. Tube should touch the bottom of jar! Now go make sure the master cylinder is full of fluid, and start pumping the pedal (slowly), check from time to time, to see that fluid is still "up" and see if coming into the jar yet! After you have an inch or so in jar, - shut the bleeder, and move to the next one, - doing the same thing! After you have done all 4 you are then ready to do "final bleed". By the way you can put the fluid that has been bled out (if it is still clean)- back in reservoir, (I would "filter" it through a piece of paper towel, - or cloth --- to make sure all the dirt is out!). On final bleed start with furtherest fitting from the master cyl,- (this is standard practice, and would be good for first bleed too -- though not manditory). If you have a helper, you can have them hold their foot on the pedal, while you slightly "crack" the fitting open (with finger over the hole), it should push bubbles out (you can feel them going out with your finger), when the bubbles appear to stop, shut this one down and go to the next. The sequence is "pump, - hold bleed, - shut off, --pump again!! If you are by yourself, you can push the pedal a few times, and put a stick in between pedal and the seat back (with rag for pad), -- this is then your "dead man" holding the pedal down for you! It takes a little longer, but gets the job done!! After you get done with all this, and you have power brakes,-- you may want to bleed them one more time (after a while) to make sure you have all the air out, - from here your brakes should be ok! The "wait" lets the fluid stabalize, and maybe "combine a few microscopic bubbles" that may have formed from the "fast flow" of bleeding!

Gravity bleed works pretty well to get fluid to clutch slave, - as it is downhill all the way (with little resistance), the slave bleeds pretty much the same as the brakes!

Answer 3

Well, its all new to me after 35 years! Where do these comedians come from? If you open the bleeder and then pump the pedal you will have more air than you know what to do with!

First off, you have to make sure the master cylinder is functional. I bleed that first. Then after you have done that, you have to work from furthest wheel to closet wheel to the master cylinder. You also need an assistant to help bleed brakes.
Have someone pump the brake pedal as hard as they can get it and hold it to the floor (Right Passanger Rear Wheel first) Now go crack the bleeder open and see what you get. Probably just air. Tighten the bleeder back up (brake pedal still being held down) After you tighten the bleeder the assistant can now repump the brake pedal hard again, So you have to repeat this as many times as necessary until ALL brake fluid comes out. Once you have accomplished that on the rear passanger wheel move to the rear drivers side wheel. Repeat until all brake fluid. Now on up to right side front passanger and then finally the front drivers side. YOU MUST RE-CHECK MASTER CYLINDER FLUID EACH TIME AND NOT ALLOW TO GO DRY!!!! If it happens you start all over!!!!
The clutch is basically the same principle except I fill the clutch master cylinder and open the bleeder on the slave cylinder until fluid starts running out. Close the bleeder valve--refill the clutch master cylinder and then have your assistant pump the clutch pedal several times then hold to the floor. Open bleeder again on slave cylinder and then close it. Repeat the steps over again until all fluid comes out. Again, keep your eye on the clutch master cylinder so as not to run dry. Once you have all fluid you should be set to go.
Both brake and clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder can be rebuilt. Just use a fine cylinder hone with some light weight oil and hone out the bore just to clean it up. Then clean it up good and install your new rebuild kit-I put a little brake fluid on the rubber items just to avoid scratching or tearing inside the bore.
Remember, closed bleeder--pump up pedal and hold to floor---open bleeder---close bleeder---repump pedal! Follow that sequence and you will do just fine. Don't pump that pedal while the bleeder is open!!!!!!

Answer 4

Brakes-
Do this starting with the brake furthest from the master cylinder and end with the one closest. You fill the reservoir and then go open the bleeder screw a bit. Depress the brake until fluid comes out. Repeat on the other three brakes. Continue doing this until there is a firm pedal and no air comes out of all the brakes, this means you will probably have to go around a few times and someone else to press the brake for you is a must.

Ive never bled a clutch but i bet its a similar procedure,

Answer 5

the master clyinder if in proper working condition will only allow the fliud to travel in one direction only. So, fill up the reservior and open all bleeders(4 corners) and start pumping the pedal. when you get fluid out of all bleeders, stop pumping and just let it gravity bleed. make sure you don't run the master dry. Works everytime for me.