any tips to taping and mudding drywall?

Answer 1

Wet the paper tape when you put it on your first pass of mud. This will help it expand before you lay it down. Eliminates ripples.

Answer 2

If you are doing a small to medium job, work from 5 gallon buckets (or smaller) or premixed regular joint compound. Use a hod (to hold the mud) and a wide drywall knife. Make sure the drywall is fastened well and make sure you imbed the tape with plenty of compound to make sure the tape does not come through the mud.

The secret is to apply as smooth as possible to eliminate too much sanding. (the worst part) I have found that using a wet sponge can often take care of small imperfections in the mud rather than sanding it off.

Answer 3

What I get is the self sticking tape. Then I just run mud down that. So you don't have a lot of sanding to do use a trowel that covers the butted surfaces. If you put on too much then it takes forever to dry and it cracks and you end up with a lot of sanding. You can also buy a taping a mudding machine if you have a lot to do. Whenever possible I try to find someone else to do the work. But I keep getting calls to come and help someone else. With the offer of a few cold ones it always helps.

Answer 4

After installing thousands of sq. ft. of drywall under various conditions, and having used thousands of gallons of "Mud", I have to agree with most that answer cracking. Mud shrinks as it drys, and if applied too heavily initially will crack no matter tape or not. One rationale is that "tape" helps hold the mud into the joints, but also "Joints" are compressed to allow for taping and mudding, sanding, painting, and a smooth, invisible flow. I stopped using "paper" tape a long time ago, and now use mesh exclusively. It is usually sold with a mild adhesive back, allowing that you don'y have to have a MUD knife loaded immediately to cover it. I'm sure you may get many valid answers and suggestions. I'm just offering mine. A GOOD MUDDER will likely be able to TWO coat a seam and leave it, so minimal sanding is needed. The process can't be accomplished in one coat anyway, given that mud does shrink. "HOT MUD" applications done by very well qualified mudders are great in my opinion, but I'm kinda "old school" Also and especially if this is a DIY issue, consider that TIME IS MONEY isn't as important, "Always" as Quality in the end result. Certainly the less residue you leave in each coat applied means less work after the fact. Raw drywall should probably be "primed" anyway in the paint process. I also use "mesh pads" as opposed to sand paper, and use them on a rubber backed tool that attaches to a handle. That allows freedom of movement without having to use a ladder in normal houses. Backing up to primer coat: If you've done everything right in appliaction and sanding, and before you close up the Mud bucket for good, prime the appliactions at least, let them dry and check the finish. If you can't see anything but smooth, then YA DONE GOOD...smile. Steven Wolf

Answer 5

take your time apply a small amount on the joints and corners and then apply the tape. make sure you have a corner trowel,a small trowel and a least a 15 inch trowel to do the straight joints.
use small amounts between coats of mud do not over trowel the mud. before you do the final coat of mud sand down the walls. then apply the final coat.

Answer 6

use your scraper handle to tap the screw heads so that mud will cover them. Put a liberal coating of mud down the joint, then put tape over it, and start at the top and scrape to work the tape in..go back over it to smooth out rough spots...let dry, and lightly sand smooth...

Answer 7

make sure the mud is well mixed and at room temp, dont be in a hurry to get the job done and dont spread it too thin, be generous with the mud

Answer 8

Jalmarj10,
Use a wide blade about six inches and try to make your surface application as smooth as you can. Remember you will have to come back and sand off your work later after it dries. Use a power sander, they work great.
TDCWH