Best way is to call a local house mover and ask them to come and look at it for you. It could be easy or very dangerous and I wouldn't want to advise you site unseen. Depends on how bad and the cause of the lean in comparison to the placement of the structures main supporting walls. Please, be careful.
2006-10-22 03:35:24
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answer #1
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answered by Ibeeware 3
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I always give tons of credit to those that are smart enough to ask advice,,,however in this situation I really am compelled to say that this is no "hang a picture and walk away job".
There can be many unforeseeable challenges that can and ALWAYS will arise. Finding yourself straining with all your might on one portion of the wall and needing your nail gun that is over there, and knowing noone's there......CAN oftentimes turn into very serious injury. There are many factors to look at and weigh out before deciding the approach to take,,,,,what is the structure built on? Footings, if so are these footings cement, if so how thick are they, how long have they existed? Was the structure built on slab cement, if so how thick, what company was entrusted to pour that slab, did they cut corners and mix cheaply for a poor grade. Is the cement crumbling, is it sound(good/strong) enough to be able to stand up to the chore of cement anchors.
Was the garage constructed in a "flood" zone.
What does a visual inspection tell you?From the structure settling, do you see gaps where one wall meets another, maybe this gap exists at the top but not bottom, maybe the other way around, and if so what is the measure of the gap,,,,very important to know. OKAY, now if you are in a relaxed and not anxious feeling then maybe you have just a safe weekend project on your hands. Have you considered large eyebolts, drill hole in a (depending on where the real need areas are) rafter and/or wall stud and run tensioning (check with the appropriate sources for size/strength/resistance requirements) line thick steel??Diagonal downward again eyebolting and tensioning line. If there is more correction to be made than a tensioning apparatus could provide, consider a sturdy wench. VERY slowly, once all is readied for the start of correcting,,,,very slowly begin to bring the structure into ....its new/correct allignment. Once there, reinforce, galvanized plating, corner bracing, run reinforcing lumber to opposite of original...can't find the words..okay what I mean is make the appearance of triangles with your reinforcing lumber pieces and fasten well. And for heaven's sake, when you figure you have accomplished the task,,,,,,don't release the tensioning the same day,,,and further more it is strongly STRONGLY advised to take 3 or more days of two or three times each day of easing off the tension.NEVER< EVER RELEASE TENSION AT ONE TIME!
Even a professional can find him/herself in a real "bind" occassionally,,,, so assess it very very carefully beforehand, maybe you could get an estimate for free... worth checking into. Good Luck,,Stay Safe!!!!!!!!!!!!
2006-10-22 11:12:25
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answer #2
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answered by wood4meworks 1
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Shore up the listing side with 2x4's and use a house column jack, or bottle jack with cut to length 2x4 to span the distance to roof support beams. Slowly jack and shim as you go till you reach an inch above the level spot, then while the shore beams hold the weight, rebuild the wall and make firm the footing or foundation. The inch above allows to place the upper plate, then let down the jack and shoring to the firm level settlement.
2006-10-22 10:44:01
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous
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