i am thinking of buying a big house which is 2 flats i want to put a stair case in so i can convert it?

Answer 1

wots the question

Answer 2

Adding stairs is a very difficult process in a remodel. First see if it possible to get stairs in. You need a 17-20 ft by 3-1/2 feet of floor space on the first floor, and another 10 ft by 3-1/2 ft of floor space on the second floor for headroom. Then you really need to add floor joist on the first floor to carry the wieght, and you will need to double up some second floor joist header off the the joist in between, to create the stair well. The stairs themselves aren't that hard to build, but do require some advanced carpentry. I'd suggest hiring a contractor on this one. It can be done by homeowner, but how confident are you in your skills? If you think you can do it read on

This question has been asked before so copy and paste, sorry, but the rest of my answer is my generic answer, but it will point you in the right direction

You need to get more info than I can supply here, try Hometime or this Old House websites, but I will give you the short answer for building stairs that are to be carpeted.

First you need to know floor-to-floor height. For this example, use standard height which is 8' 11-1/8" assuming standard wall height of 8' 1-1/8" (typ 8' ceiling) and 2x10 jsts and 3/4" decking.
Divide by 7-1/2" for each riser height, you get 14.283 risers. Since you can not have a partial riser you need to round to the closest riser, or 14 risers. Therefore, you need 14R @ 7.6518", or about 7-5/8". That leaves 3/8" difference.
You have one less tread than risers, because the upper floor acts like a tread. Therefore, 13 treads. The question is the width of the tread. Most builders use 10-1/4" tread, because they use a 2x12 for the tread. With 11-1/4" for a 2x12 and one inch nose, you get 10-1/4" level cut.

Remember that 3/8” difference. Add half (3/16”) that to the bottom riser. That way you split the difference between the top and bottom risers. Now on the bottom riser you subtract the thickness of the tread, in this case, 1-1/2”. That will make the first plumb cut have a height of 5-15/16”. Using a framing square, step off the trends and risers. Set one tongue at the trend with of 10-1/4” and the other at 7-5/8” for the risers on a 2x12 stringer. The last tread width will be 9-1/2” because the header is the riser. Also you need to notch the bottom of the stringer at the riser for a 2x4, and the back side of the last plumb cut for a 2x4. Cut the stringer and use as template for two more stringers.

Assuming you have walls on both sides you need a 2x4 spacer that runs along the bottom of the stringer on the wall. What this does is allow the drywall and stringer to slide down and still have 1/2” for the carpet to be tucked in. Stringers go up first, then first riser, using 1x8, then next riser. Then first tread. Use construction adhesive on the treads and along the back edge of the tread. Nail through the bottom of the riser in to the tread. Then go up the stairs, alternating treads and risers.

Now this example is for stairs that are to be carpeted and have walls on both sides. You will have to do things a little different if one side is open or wood stairs. But that should get you thinking do I really want to do it. If you need any other advice email me.

Good luck

Answer 3

Post your question again with all of the information and you'll get accurate answers. You have no distance allowed for opening or height you're working with or anything. A lot of people can help you with this with the right info.

Are you putting doors in? How wide is the opening? It will make a difference on the number of stringers you need. A lot of stuff missing.

Answer 4

Convert it into what? 2 flats with roof access?

Answer 5

so buy it and look around for a contractor as to the costs and check the build codes first to see that you can do this legally and the costs of it before you buy

Answer 6

Go on then!!!
Hope this help???

Answer 7

And?