Should I sell my motor for parts or put block sealer in it?

Question

The head was rebult before I knew where the leak was, should I sell the motor for parts or put block sealer in it? If the sealer dosn't work then I'am wasting the rebuild cost on the head. Obviously I'am on a tight budget. The motor is an inline 4(ford 460 cut in half)175hp. This is a closed system with radiator. Put a chevy 305 in it?, will need modifications though.

Answer 1

I would get a new motor cos I have never found a cure in a tube that works it is not the way to do a job you cant beat doing the job properly there is nothing worse than doing a crap job and getting crap results which is all you deserve for doing a crap job if all these magic cures worked milling machines and the like would not have been invented you can maybe get away with a bodge on a car engine cos if it breaks down you can park it up and walk home where on a boat it can become a life threatening situation not just for you and your passengers but for the poor buggers that have to come out and rescue your sorry a*** so think about your actions the sea is not to be trifled with I have seen to many problems on the water to disrespect its power and ability to throw up some horrible problem just when it will cause maximum disaster

Answer 2

Block sealers rarely work. The aluminum block on a 470 Mercrusier is weldable. The gear ratio in the out drive is incorrect for a V8 engine, and would require complete swing engine to be able to have all the parts required to convert to a V8. Good luck!!

Answer 3

First of all what is leaking on the block, - water, - or oil?

An old "farmer trick" when you have crack in water jacket of engine block (non compression area) --is to get a couple "tubes of "aluma-seal" (specifically this product), - it is made by the solder seal people. The stuff looks like a "bunch of aluminum powder!" You let engine idle with radiator cap off till the engine has heated up (thermostat opened, and hot water flowing through the upper radiatorhose),--- Then put the aluma-seal in to radiater, make sure it circulates, - after you have put in both tubes, fill the radiator up to "full" put on radiator cap,- and make sure it is turned all the way to seal the system tight. let the car idle for 5 minutes or so, then "block throttle to make it run at a faster than normal "idle"... put cardboard in front of radiator, - and stop airflow through the radiator. let the engine continue to run till it starts "burping" in the overflow bottle (almost boiling!) When it reaches a full "boil" (reads in red zone on gauge, or overheat light just flashes on).. then pull the cardboard out, and let engine cool down normally (still running), -- if it has lost too much water to cool down by itself, spray a little water through the radiator with "fine spray" till the water cools down to "normal range"... Shut off car, and let engine cool down - remove cap, fill system up to "normal" level, reinstall cap and drive. CAUTION don't remove the cap till the engine is cold, it can scald you very easily!!

What happens here, is that the crack expands when the engine gets over-hot. The aluma seal flows in the crack and seals the leak, - then when the engine cools down, the sealer is in the crack under "compression", and it doesn't come out easily (unless the engine is overheated agian!) I even did this with cracked heads in a 56 Cadillac years ago (they were real bad for cracking heads). I took plugs out on leaking chambers, and let the engine run for half an hour (on 5 cylindrs out of 8), till it finally got up to a boil. When it cooled off, I put the plugs in and re-filled the radiator, and drove it for many years without any trouble.....took engine out and overhauled to put into another car, and had to throw the heads away, they were cracked so bad!

The block can also be welded by a welder that knows what he is doing (with water out of engine, - and if crack on outside!) There is a special "cast iron" material he can use that won't crack as it cools!

If it is oil leaks, there is a pretty good amount of engine block sealers fot that , -that work pretty well! One is called "no-leak" of all things!

Answer 4

Sell the motor for parts and buy a lotto ticket. If you did not find the leak before the rebuild, then you just made a shot in a dark. If you win the lotto please give me more than ten point. $$$

Answer 5

A Ford 460 cut in half?? You're putting me on, right?

Answer 6

MY EXPERIENCE SAY'S DON'T SEAL IT CAUSE I NEVER HAD THAT REALLY WORK FOR ME I JUST GET A NEW ENGINE
DON'T YOU HAVE INSURANCE?