Help! I bought a 30" vanity that has a rail for nailing that runs exactly over my hot and cold turn offs.

Question

I can cut part of a hole in the rail but it will leave a thin strip at the top for attaching the vanity; there isn't enough width to drill a hole big enough for the turn offs.

I bought it on sale, guess why, and can't return it. It never occurred to me that the rail wouldn't be at a regulation height.

I can't move the rail because it supports the drawers too.

I could cleat it to the wall but it would push the vanity out of plumb from the wall. There may be room for a cleat on the inside of the wall (via a plumber's access) but it would have to go between the hot and cold pipes and the wall?

I could raise the vanity off the floor to clear the turn offs at the back but it would leave a big space underneath and look weird. And, no, I don't like the idea of putting it on glass blocks either--a creative idea but it looks like you've made a mistake. Any ideas out there?

Also, I want to put a pre-cut granite top on it, if it's that cheaply made would it support such weight

Answer 1

Go to your lumber yard or what have you, and purchase a "1/4" X 32" x 48" MDF Handi-Panel" or similar, you might find something with a white finished facing. pick up a packet of 3/4" common nails. Place cabinet on it's back, on the material, holding the cabinet to one corner of the material in such a way as to use the material as a squaring device, scribe lines, cut and install piece to back of cabinet with nails. Carefully measure and cut out back for the supply risers, P-Trap etc. with a Jig-saw and then attach to the wall with screws @ studs through your solid backing, colour exposed edges to match vanity, run a bead of latex caulking down exterior of cabinet where it meets wall to hide variance in wall finish, Set the top on cabinet (after placing faucet and PO plug fittings), using a clear silicone, try not to disturb when hooking up tubes or supplies and P-trap, probably best to wait for a day to do final hook-up anyways...oh ya! put a few nails into that nailer so that when you cut for riser holes it's not to flimsy, you could also buy a few finishing washers for the attachment screws while on your shopping spree, total cost of project about $ 20.00 , skill level minimal, tools required pencil, hammer, jig saw, screwdrivers I'm just ragging by the way...

good luck...

Answer 2

I had the same problem once. I had to remove most of the nailing strip to clear my cutoffs. Not knowing how yours is constructed this may not work for you but it did for me. I made a couple of "L" wood brackets about 20 inches long and used a good glue and some small screws to fasten them vertically to the inner sides of the cabinet, where it touches the wall. Be careful that the screws don't come through the outer wall of your cabinet. After the glue dried I drilled holes in the bracket and used anchors into the wall to hold it in place. Depending on your wall you may find a studs to anchor to but in my case I used butterfly anchors into the drywall. It has held for years. Good luck.

Answer 3

The simpliest solution: Move you shut offs. Use compression fittings, about $4 each. I assume the supply lines come from down below and will be shortened. Plumbing is often a trip for us DIYers. Good luck.

Answer 4

Cut around the shutoffs and add another brace alongside to give support. Or you could move the shutoffs.
This would be a good time for a picture.