Introducing draw reins?

Question

My Throughbred gelding has a pretty natural head set, but I have never been able to get him into frame. At first I thought it was because I didn't have enough contact, or I wasn't using enough leg, but he just tosses his head when I start asking him to frame up. I was suggested to try draw reins, but I have no idea how he would react to having his head forced (I hate having to use that word) in a tucked position. What is a good way to introduce him to the draw reins?

Answer 1

I agree...it takes a very skilled hand to use drawreains correctly. Itherwise, you'll end up the a horse that goes around in a "set", constantly curling his head into his chest. and that's very hard to un-do!

If you are working with a coach or trainer, ask them to help you with fitting a DeGogue. A deGogue (some people mistakening use the word Chambon, but that's really just for lunging). A degogue will help your horse keep his head in the correct place-- he contraols the pressure, and it encourages him to keep his head in the right place--the rider does nothing. But you do need to know how to put it on & fit it!!!

Answer 2

DO NOT USE DRAW REINS!!! They should only be used by a very skilled professional for an extreme problem. Draw reins exert such a strong force on the horses mouth and in the wrong hands it's about as bad as having razorblades in his mouth. Framing up is a false headset, which you don't want. The horse is unconnected and out behind himself. Take some dressage lessons with a good trainer who can help you learn how to connect him. Once he is stepping through he will naturally round up, lifting his back, stepping underneath himself, and carrying his neck properly. If you don't want to truly get him through and want a quick fix use a running martingale or, if you really want to, a german martingale (it's still harsh, but much safer for your horse than draw reins). Draw reins can ruin a great horse, be very careful.

Answer 3

I would suggest trying 2 things before you go to draw reins. A training fork (hooks to girth and has two lengths of rope with rings on the ends) gives you the same leverage but gives you more release. You could also try tying his head in a round pen or on a lunge. Use a milder bit than you normally ride in (fat smooth snaffle is best): take 2 lead ropes (soft cotton) and run the lead from the left side of mouth under right leg (go between legs) and over back behind withers, then run lead from right side of mouth under left leg (between legs) and over back (if run properly ropes will make an x under neck), then tie both ends together very loosley (start at your horses normal head carrage), and lunge. Be careful not to start this with the ropes to tight; as your horse learns to accept bit contact tighten ropes over time to desired head height. The best way to introduce draw reins if you have a horse that fights bit contact is start with draw reins and regular (split, roping, english) reins; you will have to palm both together. Ride with normal rein contact on both reins. When you wish to frame up your horse raise hands slightly straight up; this will apply bit pressure with the draw reins. Make sure that you are applying leg pressure with contact. If he fights lessen pressure (drop hands) while still riding forward; then reapply pressure. Repeat process until your horse gives completly upon contact. Once you have ridden him a couple of times with draw reins you may remove regular reins if you want to. Make sure that you do not over draw your horse as this will make him arch his neck. If your horse protests dangerously (rearing) during first contact drop draw reins and ride 5 minutes then try again. If your horse still protests to the draw reins then I would suggest tying his head like explained above until he relaxes into the bit. Some horses once tied do not need draw reins.

Answer 4

I agree with all of the above, if you choose to use draw reins, do it carefully and have an instructor who is very skilled in using them help you.

Answer 5

I completely agree with Carson.