Roofing - drip edges, venting, etc.?

Question

I have hail damage and the insurance will be paying for a replacement roof. I am looking for a good roofing contractor in the Franklin/Nashville TN area. Also, if anyone has any insight on such things as drip edges. They seem to rarely be put on new houses yet the shingle manufacturers include them in their installation instructions. Are they really required? Any other gotchas or things to ask people that give bids to do work? Thanks.

Answer 1

Drip edge should always be used some contractors do no install it because of laziness! Drip edge comes in two sizes 4" and 8". You should always use the 8", gives you a little more protection. Drip edge is made of two kinds of metal: Galvanized and aluminum. You should always use Galvanized it will be stronger. The purpose of drip edge is so water does not travel up your first layer of roofing material. If you are doing a shingle roof demand for at least 35 year shingles they will be more durable and last longer. Also you might want to consider putting on a tin roof. It will last forever if you go this route ask for 29 gage metal this is thicker to ensure longevity.
Good luck

Answer 2

Drip edges are sometimes just a shingle that overhangs from the edge of the downslope of your roof, sometimes a fascia board that is a little long, sometimes a little groove in your soffit. Basically you want something that serves the purpose of allowing the water to drip rather than carry itself along the underside of the soffit and leave marks or worse yet, run down the face of your house, allowing it to get into little nooks and crannies and then when you have a freeze it expands and tears at your structure or it finds it's way into the wall structure and if there are any holes where it can get in then that musty smell starts.
Venting, yes, there should be continuous venting to allow the air to exchange in your attic - but if your house is already built and it's hail damage then you are probably only having the shingles replaced. Your drip edge should already be there and so should the vents.

Ask for references from your contractor - always ask and call the owners, maybe do a drive by.

Answer 3

good luck - i'd allready be fighting mad after reading !
if you 85, put the money in the bank, if your 70
buy 20 year shingles (will last +/- 15 yr), 25 yr maybe 20....
i'm from Texas.....
drip edge here is 1.5" x 1.5" x 10', aluminum last forever, galvanized will rust. i guess the big stuff is for snow & ice dams & such

you have to let plenty of air in & out... your insulation is wher the heat is held in the house, don't ever plug up vents!!! this is especially true above the mason dixon large chuncks of ice will form. a dry well ventilated attic is a happy one.
drip edge as i know it goes on top of felt ( # 30 - 30pound felt) paper & is nailed down... several types - d - supports shingle edge, L - is just that covers the point at which the decking & facia meet, they even make one for after market roof venting for houses w/o soffit.
it is to stop water infiltration on the leading edge.
i have 14 whirly birds on my house... have found this to be the best combo - w/ cool ply - tech shield - radiant barrier
while your shingles are off consider re-nailing your deck with 3" framing nails, 6" to 8" O.C. should cost +/- 250 - 350, & will take maybe 3 house with gun nailer ( really should be 1 1/2 hour 2500 sq ft house) you'll feel a lot better during the next storm/ hurricane.
30 lb felt, hand nail shingle to code with your proximity to the coast 4, 5, or 6 nails maybe more. get proper windstorm, code , insurance inspections!
good luck!!!

Answer 4

we always use drip edge.....as for venting go with ridge vent ( the shingle over type) replace the tar paper and make sure they install it only after the sun has come up to take the wrinkles out if it is put on the day before.....

i have a friend that is a contractor in Franklin NC, if u will email me i will give u his name......

lic. gen. contractor