why does the cooling coil in a frost free refrigerator ice up, blocking air flowing from freezer to lower area

Question

The compressor runs OK, as does the fan behind the freezer compartment. Items in the freezer are alright too. It's just that due to ice forming on the cold pipes stops air flowing down through the relatively narrow vent into the main storage compartment

Answer 1

It is probably the timer for defrost that has gone out... some models allow for manual operation of the timer with a large, flat-blade screwdriver. On my Kenmore, it is in the front-center "ceiling" of the refrigerator compartment. The hole is the access for manual turning of the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly until it clicks. Locate the drain tube & if the problem is the timer, water will start draining from the tube within a few minutes. If it is very iced up, it may take 45 minutes to defrost. Then turn the timer a half-turn or so to restart fridge. If you choose to replace the timer yourself, you'll need to manually defrost every day or two, depending on how many times & how long door is open, until new timer arrives.

Answer 2

There is supposed to be a heating element that a timer turns on periodically to defrost it (or a valve that the timer redirects to let hot refrigerant pass by it and melt the ice). Either way the timer is a likely culprit or the source of heat (valve or heater). I am not sure of how accessible it is on your refrigerator or what tools (like a voltmeter) you have for checking. The heater and the timer are cheap but the testing could be a stumper. As I recall there is a noise that it makes when in that ice-melting cycle so that might be a clue to determine whether the timer is running the cycle. There is also usually a wiring diagram that you can look at (probably on the back) to see what form of heating your refrigerator uses.

There is a web site that is helpful and can sell you the parts called Appliance Part Depot. Try googling it before you do anything else. If you have the fridge model number they have pictures of all the parts for it that you can look through. They can also talk to you on the phone and give good advice.

Answer 3

As the others have said you have a defrost problem. The freezer temperature will be affected as the frost builds up and it is putting a strain on the compressor as well. You should defrost the unit as soon as possible to prevent further problems. If you can disassemble the freezer to defrost it with a hair dryer that would be the fastest way to do so but you can disconnect the power to the unit and let it sit WITH BOTH DOORS WIDE OPEN for at least 24 hours it will defrost on it's own.

Since you have not provided the make and model of your refrigerator it would be difficult to tell you where to look for the components to be checked and how to check them without writing a mini service manual.

If you need further assistance just click on my name and contact me with make and model I would be glad to help you check it out.

Answer 4

the automatic defrost system is not working. There are three parts that make it work
1. A mechanical clock/timer or PC board on some new refrigerators
2. A defrost heater- glass tube or cal rod type
3. A defrost thermostat- monitors temp-closed when cold & opens with heat from heater.
most common problem is time, followed by thermostat & heater

Answer 5

Usually the first thing to look at is the seals around the doors. Second look at settings for freezer. It it set too low and things are colder than 31 or 32 degrees inside there. put a thermometer in and adjust settings. I keep mine at about 29 degrees, but it is a side by side. Refridgerator should be about 34 degrees for me as I like my juice and milk ice cold. If you have ice and/or water in the door, then most likely the problem is in a valve at the point where the water line enters the refridge. The valve needs replacing as it does not work.