How do you perform a tune up on an automobile?

Question

I would like if someone could tell me how to perform a full tune up on an automobile step by step. I have an idea that it involves an oil change and a couple other things. I would like to know what those other things are and how they are done so that I can try them on my car. Any websites would be helpful. Thanks in advance to everyone helping me out!

Answer 1

Now days it's pretty simple, just change the plugs and wires :)

Answer 2

Remove the spark plugs, if they're copper plugs, check them for any deposits, clean them, and adjust their gaps.

Check the hoses and belts to make sure they're not frayed, cracked, leaking, etc.

Remove the distributor cap and put in a fresh set of breaker points. Turn the starter until the points are all the way open and set their gap with a feeler gauge.

Once you've got the new points in, disconnect the vacuum advance, start up the engine, take a timing strobe, and adjust the spark timing until it matches the manufacturere's specifications.

Adjust the idle mixture screw(s) on the carburetor to specifications.

Adjust the idle control screw on the carburetor until the engine idles at the RPM the manufacturer specifies.

You'll note that of the six steps I listed, only the first two are even possible on a car sold in the United States after the late '80s. If you have a modern car, it won't need a true tune-up.

Answer 3

The word "tune-up" means different things to different people.

To some, it means only the components that make the spark plugs go "zzzzzzzzzT "

But it sounds like you want to know how to properly maintain the mechanical workings of your car.

The spark system of modern cars is easy. Remove the spark plugs, clean out the cavity, gap it using a "feeler gauge". I set mine at 32, newer cars recommend a bit more. And that's it!

Now, periodic maintenance is another thing.

The first thing EVERYBODY should do is get rid of that stuff they put in radiators from the factory. Go down to the Mercedes Benz dealer and buy a gallon or two of their coolant. It doesn't clog up radiators and it lubricates the water pump bushing better than anything else out there. Change it every 4 years, if you do this whenever there's a presidential election, you'll never forget.

I change my air clearner twice a year. October and May, when I do my other bi-annual maintenance.

I have an oil filter that takes out more dirt than my engine can make, so I change only the filter once a month. But you'll want to change your oil twice a year, once in October, and once in May. (lighter oil for winter, heavier oil for summer) Change the spin-on filter too. Buy a wrench to do this, engine heat can fry these things into place real hard.

Buy a grease gun. I have about 5 of them, but the one I like best is the small one that takes the small grease cartridge. Use lithium grease. When you have your car's front end up to do the oil change, grease all the front end zerk fittings. There's one on each ball joint, one on each tie rod end. There might be one on each U-joint, but sometimes you just can't grease these. U-joints are only $10 or $20 bucks and they're not hard to put in, so don't lose any sleep over them.

Checking your tires air pressure once a month is best, but if you put it off until your Oct/May maintenance, you'll be ok.

Automatic tranny fluid gets changed once a year, be sure to buy the "transmission service" kit at your auto parts store so you can change out the gaskets and crap trap. It's messy, but not hard. I have a filter that takes out more dirt than my transmission can make, so all I do is change the filter twice a year . . . yup, you guessed it; October and May.

If you have a rear-wheel drive car, your rear-end fluid should be changed once a decade. Ditto for manual trans. Be sure you buy the best gear oil availalble, synthetic is best. At ten years also change your fuel filter, and brake fluid. Yes, brake fluid. It absorbs moisture out of the air, and will rust the slave cylinders (aka wheel cylinders). Use a length of aquarium air line so you can watch the dirty fluid being pushed out by the clean fluid as you sit in the driver's seat and slowly push the brake pedal. You have to do each of the four wheel cylinders.

Find a good chassis shop, aka alignment shop. A good chassis man can take care of everything else for you. He'll keep up on all the front end parts that need replaced, U-joints, brakes, wheel bearings, etc. Be sure you check the BBB to be sure the guy isn't a crook. I tried about a half dozen shops before I found a competent chassis guy. If you have to drive to Bakersfield to use Pearson's Alignment twice a year it'd be worth it.

My car is 40 years old, we've owned it 20.

This is experience talking.

Oh, . . . the filter that takes out more dirt than your engine/transmission can make . . . FRANTZ. (not "fram"). It's got a roll of toilet paper inside it. It forces the oil/fluid to pass through four inches of tightly rolled paper. It comes out of the filter cleaner than when it came out of the bottle you bought it in.
.

Answer 4

Oil and oil filter change.
Spark plugs.
plug wires.
Distributor cap.
Rotor.
Maybe lube the chassis.
If you go to Somewhere like Autozone on line, or Checker... They should be able to guide you in the right direction, as far as what parts you need for your car, and how to change them correctly.
Remember, the pistond rotate in a certain order to fire. The plugs and wires need to be put back on exactly in the right order.

Answer 5

Depends on what kind of car and engine. Is it fuel injected, or does it have a carbuerator? If it's fuel injected, you go about it differently.

Answer 6

Wise guy what are you working on it sounds more like a motorised rickshaw than a car.No wonder imports sell well.

Answer 7

and dont forget to change the fuel filter if your car has one.

Answer 8

drain the blinker fluid and put new fluid back in the blinker fluid reservoir