1991 Toyota Camry... 228,700 miles, running well, but burning oil...?

Question

I know this is a popular question, but I need the help of anyone hopefully certified or qualified enough to help me out with this. I have a 1991 Toyota Camry, bought used at 163k. The previous owner took horrible care of the car. When I got the car, the air filter had holes in it, there was no oil visible on the dipstick, and transmission fluid was far beyond it's time. I changed all those things out and the car has been like old faithful to me. The oil burning used to be okay, I would have checked under the hood every 2000 miles, but now the oil seems to drop a quarter on the dipstick for every 100-150 miles. (1/4 quart). The car runs really well, and it's hard to discern what it would be. I know, getting a new car is the best thing, but I simply can't afford it. Maybe I'll have a new engine installed if necessary. I'm thinking... Valve cover gasket? Ring seals? I probably will test the compression but I still don't know where to go from there. I'm no car expert, just maintenance.

Nothing is leaking, I've already checked. I change the oil on this car often and I park it on surfaces where you can check easily if there are any leaks. It's simply burning oil, and far too quickly. I've heard a lot of people using Auto-Rx, but I don't know if that's going to help here.

Darn... I like all of your answers and I can't choose a best one. I think that's just how it is with vehicles anyways. Thanks for your opinions. I'll leave it to you guys to decide which answer is best.

Just adding information in case a car mechanic is going to see this. My car is supposed to use 10W-30 oil. The oil pressure used to be 40-60 psi, but then in recent months it fell down to 5-30 psi while driving. The Haynes manual says the oil pressure should be 36-72 psi at 3000 rpms. When it was at 3000 rpms with the 10w-30 oil it was only 25-30 psi, so I changed to 10w-40 oil, and the oil pressure is around the correct levels. 50-75 psi when it's cold, and then approx 40-50 psi when it gets warm. (highway driving, approx 2500 rpms)

I don't know if that is an indication of anything at all, I assume the engine wear will increase the clearances within the engine so maybe it's normal. The oil burning still shouldn't be that bad. I just drove 125 miles a couple days ago, and luckily it only burned 1/8 quart of oil. Seems to be a little random...

Answer 1

That's a good car!
Realistically, you need a valve and ring job.


You MAY be able to get away with just a valve job but you got some miles on that puppy and it's almost worn out. My logic says that if I am going to tear into the motor...do it all and not just half. Especially with those miles. The lack of pressure is due to increased clearances (wear) of the bearing surfaces of the crankshaft and rods. Using thicker oil does remedy this but it does not fix the problem permanently

Other option...find a used motor at a salvage yard with a reasonable amount of miles and do a swap, or keep driving it til she blows. A quart of oil a couple of times a week is cheaper (at the moment) than a motor!

Answer 2

Toyota Camry 1991

Answer 3

Perform a cylinder leak down test. This is will tell you exactly if its oil the piston oil rings, the exhaust valve, intake valve. Each cylinder is placed at top dead center on the power stroke spark plug is removed and an air line is threaded into it the sp hole. 80 psi of pressure is forced in. The tester has a pressure gauge as 80 psi is in the gauge is obserd for five minutes it shouldnt drop more tham ten pounds. If it does listen if you hear a sssssssss air leaking at the muffler exhuast valve bad. Air intake manifold or air fil boot. Intake valve bad. At the oil dip stick tube piston rings.

Answer 4

Either Valve Stem Seals or the rings on your piston have become worn to the point that oil control is no longer what it should be. The Most cost effective way is to search Salvage yards for a low mileage Camry engine and drop it in. Rebuild is another option and crate engines (remanufactured) are also
cost effective options..

Answer 5

With that many miles. It`s not new. It`s worn out. You will burn oil. If you say you bought the car like you did and previous owner did nothing then what do you expect. Any way 300 to 500 miles out of a quart of oil is not bad under harsh conditions. As you drive you do not have to see smoke to burn oil

Answer 6

Peterpipe is right. But you may also want to try a quart of Lucas engine oil treatment. It adds compression and slow oil consumption considerably. But an engine overhaul is your best bet. Make sure they put a new oil pump in as well.
Good luck. The Lucas will help but it won't end your problem.

Answer 7

Several ways: 1. Cold fusion, bombarding ordinary water with electrons from an old cathode ray tube, in order to make steam and run a turbine. 2. Find the uranium that Bush said Saddam was trying to get from a mine that ceased production over a decade ago, then let it disintegrate rapidly as this administration's credibility until it heats up the water fast like the Iran or North Korean crisis, then run the turbine as above. 3. Did you mean "no clear power"?

Answer 8

yo fool, it b soudin like it could be a crackd manifold, or block. Otherwise it b a valve gasket or it needs a valve job. Last did u even check to see it da filter is leaking. Is there white smoke out ur exhaust cause that be a crackd block or manifold. Either way 100-150 mile spells trouble. Dont get it twistd. dont even trip

Answer 9

The valve seals are likely leaking...it can be some what costly may 500...but worth it.

That car will keep on kickin

Answer 10

most likely oil rings on the piston are wore out and oil is getting burn up in the combustion chamber. if oil ring are wore out then oil doesn't get swept back down to oil pan.

if you use heavy oil like 20w50 then it might slow down oil consumption but not recommend for cold days.