I'm in the process of doing this right now. You need an installation kit with a pull bar, a tapping block, and spacers (depending on where you live). You'll also need some duct tape, electric saw, and a tape measure.
-Put the flooring in the room to be installed 48 hours prior to installation, this allows the planks to be climatized.
-Make sure the concrete surface is dry, clean, level, and free of bumps and what not.
-Put down the underlayment and tape them down with duct tape.
-Make sure to place the planks along the longer side of the room as it makes the room look bigger.
-Tape spacers to the wall on one long side of the wall, at every point where a new plank will be placed.
-Tape spacers along the smaller, horizontal sides as you go down.
-Place down a plank in your starting corner, move left to right, up to down, one row at a time.
-After the first plank is down, wedge the next one to the right of it in at a 45 degree angle and then gently pull it down.
-Tap it in with the tapping block until the planks meet, but don't overdo it.
-At the end of the row, you'll have to measure and cut a plank to get it to fit.
-Start the next row directly underneath. Wedge the first plank against the wall and gently push it into the one above. Tap it in until the planks meet.
-Then you'll put down the next one to the right, with a little bit of space in between. Tap up and then tap to the left to get the plank connected.
-When you get to the end of the room, you'll have to measure and cut probably a whole row (use a pencil for this).
-You can put down the baseboard or trim on the edge of the wall to cover the gaps between the floor and the wall (remove the spacers first). You may also use some caulk or sealant to help seal the moisture in before putting in the baseboard.
-You'll need to put down separaters (forgot what these are called) wherever there is a different type of flooring (do not put laminate wood in places that get wet, such as the kitchen, bathrooms, by the front door, etc.) and probably between rooms (not completely sure about this).
Good luck.
2006-10-09 06:42:50
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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One thing that has not be mentioned is moisture. You really need to check your floor for moisture coming up from below.
Tape a 12 to 24" square of clear plasic down to the concrete sealing along the edges with duct tape. Wait a day or two to see if any moisture accumulates under the plastic. If so, you will need to seal the concrete. Laminate flooring does not like moisture.
2006-10-09 09:22:48
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answer #2
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answered by oil field trash 7
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reunionrowdies basically spelled it out for you. It's not terribly difficult to do, just takes time. Remember--you should always measure twice, cut once.
On a concrete slab, you should also put down a moisture barrier, just to make sure the flooring lasts & stays nice (and you avoid mold/mildew).
And I believe the term for the separaters he spoke of is "transition strips." You can get it for laminate-to-laminate flooring, laminate-to-carpet, laminate-to-linoleum & laminate to tile strips.
2006-10-09 12:09:39
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answer #3
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answered by Leah M 3
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Yes you can, most of the new wood flooring are tongue and groove floating floors. Just be sure to buy a good underlay. Ask the flooring professionals at Lowes or Home Depot they will tell you what to do. If your tile is nice and flat and installed well it is almost just as good as installing on a concrete foundation (this is done on homes in Florida everyday!). Good luck to you, be sure to take your time and do a great job!
2016-03-28 02:43:23
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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Go to the link below. It'll answer all of your questions. Save it to your favorites until the job is complete! Have fun and good luck!
2006-10-09 07:03:13
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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Put a pad down first.
2006-10-09 06:25:18
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answer #6
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answered by firebirdstevev 3
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JUS LIKE WOOD IF IT IS FLAT! IF NOT YOU MAY NEED TO FLOAT W- PLENY PATCH.
2006-10-09 06:19:45
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answer #7
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answered by Bonno 6
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