How do I attached a dado rail round a corner going upstairs?

Answer 1

There is a special block you can buy in diy stores or make one. it has a bottom two sides and then six cuts. one straight and then one at 45 degrees in the 4 corners. opposite sides join up. You'll defenitely need one of these or the dado rail will never line up...

Its called a mitre block

Brilliant, let me know how the soaking in water works out for you

Answer 2

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Answer 3

Time to complete job: About 1/2 a day. Approximate budget: Rails cost from around £25. Timber yards are usually the best value. You will need: Dado or picture rail Drill Wood and masonry bits Screwdriver Spirit level Tape measure Pencil Hand saw Mitre box Screws and wall fixings Wood filler Filling knife Tip: It's much easier to paint or varnish the rails before fixing them. Prime bare timber and fill any cracks with wood filler. Step 1: Measuring Decide on the height of your rails. A dado rail should be fitted between 1 and 1.2m (1.1 and 1.3yd) from the floor. A Victorian or older house with high ceilings should have the picture rail at a height somewhere between 300 and 500mm (12 and 20in) below the ceiling. 1930s-to-present homes have lower ceilings and the picture rail is usually level with the top of the door frames. Use a tape measure and mark the wall at the correct height. Make marks every 1.5m (1.6yd) around the room. Work from the ceiling down for picture rail and from the floor up for dado rail. Rest a spirit level on top of a piece of the rail and use this to join up the points you have marked. You may need to slightly adjust the line if your floor or ceiling isn't level. Step 2: Screw holes Make screw holes at 1m intervals along the centre of the rail with a wood bit. Countersink the holes so that you can cover the screw heads with filler. Tip: Pre-packed dado and picture rails sold in DIY stores come with hidden plastic fixings that don't need screw holes in the wood. Step 3: Drilling Start at the corner of the longest length of plain wall and mitre the end of the first rail using a saw and mitre box. Hold the rail against the wall with the top edge lined up with your pencil line. Mark through the screw holes with a pencil. Drill the fixing holes in the wall at the marked points. Use wall plugs for brick walls or cavity wall fixings for plasterboard walls. Tip: Try to buy full lengths of rail so that you don't have to join pieces in the middle of the wall. If your room is very long, mitre the other end of the first rail as well. Then mitre the end of the next piece of rail to make a neat angled joint. Step 4: Finishing Screw the first rail in place and work across the room using the same technique. Mitre the ends of the rail to fit into external and internal corners. When the entire rail is fixed, cover the screw holes with filler and allow to dry before adding a dab of varnish or paint. Tip: Pre-packed dado and picture rails are pre-cut on the ends so that the internal corners are a neat fit. These join at right angles and don't need to be cut in a mitre box.

Answer 4

I have done this by soaking the wood first until it becomes very plyable. Before soaking, cut small 'kerfs' or notches -very shallow cuts- in the back of the wood. This allows it to bend much further. Remember that thin, narrow strips work better, so you might want to plan on using multiple pieces to build up or layer to the desired width/depth. Mitering works, but if you haven't done a lot of miter work, you might find bending to be less frustrating. Once you've kerfed and soaked the wood long enough for it it bend without breaking, go ahead and put it up still wet. (Towel it off, of course, first.) Use brads, no glue, to affix it. As it dries, it will harden into the shape, but it will also shrink a tiny bit; imperceptibly to most folks. Use a little wood putty on the tip of your finger at the joints and where you countersank the brads, of course! Have fun!

Answer 5

Or use a mitre saw to cut the end flush to the wall and then another cut at an angle to meet the next bit of dado.

Answer 6

The easyest way is to cut a piece about 2 or 3 inches long as if you were going straight, and then cut a angle on the side that you want to go upstairs ( =\ ) or (/= ).

Hope this helps, it worked for me.

Answer 7

At the very least you're going to need a Compound Mitre Saw to cut the necessary angles. What the angles might be I have no idea, a book on trim carpentry might give you a starting point.

Answer 8

get a Mitre block from your local DIY store (B&Q is best because they do a wide variety) then jus place your dado rail in and make the cut (you cant really Go wrong!)

Answer 9

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Answer 10

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