If the vinyl is stuck down pretty solid there is no need to remove it. If you go directly over the vinyl chances are the tile will crack, maybe not right away, but definitely sooner than they should.
The best option is to buy 1/4" hardie-backer composite cement board, it runs about $10 for a 3' x5' sheet, it's not cheap, but I would recommend it whether you are going over vinyl or not. Make sure that you use thin-set when installing the backer-board, some contractors will skip this step defeating the purpose of the underlayment. After thinseting the board in place, SCREW it down using hardie-backer screws (not drywall screws or roofing nails) at the recommended intervals marked on the board, again some contractors will be cheap in this area and use nails or skip some of the marks. Scrape the surface of the board with a putty/drywall knife to remove the spots where the screws mushroomed. Tape the joints with mesh drywall tape (make sure that you leave 1/8" gap between boards and don't line up the seams), then fill the gaps with thinset.
DO THIS...you do not want to have to pull up and re-do a tile floor, trust me, I've done it, and not on my work. This method will not only provide you with a sound underlayment for ANY flooring, but will also help level out any inconsistencies in the floor. I have done many floors like this and have never had a single call-back. Hope this helps.
2006-10-07 19:04:52
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answer #1
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answered by Nick1464 2
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I like sheet vinyl in the bathroom or ceramic tile and sheet vinyl or a laminate in the kitchen. I personally do not like ceramic in the kitchen..hard on the feet and back if you spend any amount of time in there and is not forgiving if you happen to drop something. I don't like vinyl tiles in the bathroom as the water and moisture can seep in the seams lifting them. Your whole house flooring will dictate what is best for these two rooms. You might not get a lot of money back out of this reno, but might make a sale with a new floor, so be realistic in your choices and do not have the choices look out of place compared to the rest of the house.
2016-03-28 01:17:03
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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Take out the vinyl flooring and scrape all the goop off the floor. The floor must be smooth. If the room is slab on grade (concrete on the ground) the tile can be installed now. If the sub floor is wood and is raised up off the ground, you need to first install "concrete board" (available where ever you buy the tile). Be very sure the concrete board is firmly fastened to the sub floor. Mine wasn't screwed down properly and within a month the floor had split at the grout seams. The ceramic tile goes on top of the concrete board. The surface under the tile must be smooth!!
2006-10-07 15:27:52
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answer #3
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answered by lollipop 6
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No, the vinyl floor needs to be removed and the floor needs to be prepped to make sure that the floor is completely flat or the tile will break. You may need to consult a professional.
2006-10-07 15:19:54
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answer #4
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answered by i have no idea 6
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Do what lollipop says.
If you dont want to rip up the vinal, lay 1/4 to 1/2 inch plywood down and nail it through the final flooring using at least 3/4 inch nails. Then tile as normal.
2006-10-07 17:33:30
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answer #5
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answered by TAMUGMAN 1
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No. The floor has to be stripped and all nails drove down before tile is put down or tiles will crack
2006-10-07 16:09:01
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answer #6
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answered by wowwhatwasthat 4
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No, that is halfassed. Go down to the subfloor, secure the floor boards with screws, lay 1/2" wonderboard over that with screws and construction adhesive, and thinset tiles over that.
2006-10-09 17:08:39
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answer #7
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answered by Anonymous
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Sure. Then when you are tired of the tile you can just role it up along with the vinyl.
2006-10-07 15:24:10
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answer #8
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answered by Sugarface 3
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Peel the vinyl up first. Make sure you have a good base
2006-10-07 15:19:16
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answer #9
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answered by padidvr2003 2
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I would ask a tile guy at Home depot.
2006-10-07 15:19:06
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answer #10
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answered by Anonymous
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