OK. Lets address the wire issue. Almost nobody uses 14 guage wire anymore so you are OK with the 12. Unless there is more to this than simple outlet install, 12-2 URD would be the stuff. Use the URD wire because you are below grade (underground) in the basement.
Now boxes. 12 guage wire is stiffer and harder to bunch up into a box than 14 guage, so use a 4"x4" steel shallow square box to allow room for connectors and wire. Use Tap con screws to anchor the boxes to the wall, not the firring strips. Top the boxes with mud rings that will reduce the surface down to a single outlet cavity.
And hook up. Inside the 12-2 URD you'll find a black, white, and a bare wire. At the outlet end, attach the black wire to the copper colored screw on the outlet, the white to the silver colored screw and the bare wire to the ground screw, usually colored green. Mount the outlet in the cavity. do the other 3 just like this.
At the breaker box attach the bare wire to the grounded buss bar , the white to the neutral bar, and the black to the back of the breaker,no stronger than 20 amps, then snap in the breaker. All your wires are now live and can shock you.
Be sure to install some small metal plates on to the firring strips wherever the wire passes through to protect the wire from nails when you install paneling.
You're done. I need a beer.
2006-10-06 06:54:18
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answer #1
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answered by michaelsmaniacal 5
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For 110VAC household, you should use a minimum 15 amp breaker and 14/2 Rom-ex. Exception is the kitchen where you need 12/2 and a 20 amp breaker with two separate circuits. If you have 12/3, save that for a light that is operated from either end of a hallway or stairwell. You can anchor the boxes to the concrete walls, but how are you going to attach the electric cable? You need a minimum of 1" back set and you won't get that if the furring strips are next to the concrete. I would suggest framing out the two exterior walls also, which will solve the problem of anchoring anything. Also, if water going to be a consideration, you need to use a GFCI protected outlet as the first one off the power box.
2006-10-06 05:38:47
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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You can attach the boxes to either the concrete or the firring strips (the latter is probably easier). One concern is the volume of the boxes. You'll probably need 4" square boxes with a mud ring to get the space for the wires. If you don't understand box fill you shouldn't be doing this work. Why are you saying 12-3 as opposed to 12-2? The ground isn't part of the number, so 12-2 with ground would be used. If it is a 15A circuit, 14-2 w/ground can be used. If you didn't know about wire size either, you shouldn't be doing this work. Get an electrician.
2006-10-06 03:44:02
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answer #3
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answered by An electrical engineer 5
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For a basement application wiring to 4 new outlets, you should use 12-3 or 12-2 if you ground the Romex and not 14-3. You are going to have a Dickens of a time using this heavy gauge wire in a shallow box though. You should consider using GFCI outlets for a basement too only they won't fit in a shallow box.
You can run the Romex through the furring strips, just remember to cover the furring strip where the hole is to prevent someone drilling into it later.
2006-10-06 03:38:46
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answer #4
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answered by Isotope235 1
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Check with your local inspector as to what is allowable. 12-2 romex is what I use for outlets even though most outlets are only rated 15 amps. I always oversize the conductors at least 1 size for a safety factor. Have you considered surface mount after finishing walls? Wiremold looks quite good if done properly, definately use GFCI outlets in a basement.
2006-10-06 05:05:21
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answer #5
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answered by Ed W 2
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The short and simple answer is, use 12 wire (12-2 should work fine, that's a black, a white and ground, 12-3 is black, white, red and ground, not necessary for this application) and attach the boxes to the firring strips, but you probably should use 2x4's instead of the thin stuff. Use 14 wire for lighting circuits. Good Luck!
rentahandyman@yahoo.com
2006-10-06 03:38:00
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answer #6
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answered by rentahandyman 2
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The first place you should go with this Q is code enforcement and zoning.
I'll assume that nothing less than 12/3 should be used in construction in this day and age.
I'd also tap con the boxes into the concrete/block for security issues. Certainly they might, in time, loosen, but why stress furring strips any more than they are, with whatever you use to attach THEM and add wall material to them. It's not all going to be Shear weight.
Rev. Steven
2006-10-06 03:35:35
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answer #7
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answered by DIY Doc 7
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i nope you have a ramset to attach the furring strips .if you plan on using nails.you are in for a hard time.so rent a ramset.as for the wire size check the breaker if it is a 15 amp then use 14 ga wire if it is a 20 amp then use 12 ga.and i would attach the boxes to the wall.using tapcons
2006-10-06 03:43:44
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answer #8
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answered by ata31254 3
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12/3 should be fine.
The concrete walls will be a pain.
Attach them to the firring strips using shallow box's.
They have easy to use electrical books at the library if you don't want to buy one at Home Depot, but you should buy one.
2006-10-06 03:37:43
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answer #9
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answered by Scooby 3
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You can use 14-3 and attach the outlets to the furring strips.
2006-10-06 03:36:45
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answer #10
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answered by Anonymous
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