for my science homework?!?!?!?!
2006-10-05 09:59:45 · 5 answers · asked by enejna118 1 in Science & Mathematics ➔ Earth Sciences & Geology
The lower part of the wave (trough) slows because of friction with the substrate. This causes the upper part of the wave to "lean forward" at an increasing angle until finally it topples over. This is what we refer to as the wave "breaking".
2006-10-05 10:46:46 · answer #1 · answered by PaulCyp 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
The wave gets taller and correspondingly slows down as some of the energy of its motion is used up in making it taller. The wave will break when the distance from the trough to the bottom is less than 70% of the distance from the trough to the crest.
2006-10-05 14:19:50 · answer #2 · answered by kevpet2005 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
because it is being driven by the force of the earth turning so with all the water mass reaching the higher land mass it try's to climb but eventualy runs out of steam
2006-10-05 10:10:48 · answer #3 · answered by cujimmy57ok 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Science
rules
2015-02-05 01:10:50 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
the wave is compressed,
this makes it get taller and move faster.
2006-10-05 10:07:15 · answer #5 · answered by papeche 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋