Can anyone give me pointers on how to care for a three toed box turtle?

Question

I have found what I believe to be a three toed box turtle that I am gonna allow my boys to care for as they just lost their cat. I need to know for sure what kind of turtle I have and Ibelieve i've found a female three toed box turtle. Are there any other turtles with three toes on back with yellow eyes? Also I need some pointers on how to care for it...

Answer 1

Yes i believe you found a 3 toed. If this is from the wild, I suggest you leave him be, but if you insist on keeping him, here is a list of some of the basic things you will need for your turtle.


An Enclosure. *Box turtles need a good size enclosure in order to provide for the proper range of heating and humidity. The smallest size indoor enclosure one box turtle should be kept in is 3 x 3 x 2 ft. (l x w x h ) For two box turtles, the minimum enclosure should be at least 4 x 4 x 2 ft. Forcing box turtles to live in an enclosure that is too small is very stressful, and will contribute to their demise. Often, box turtles are sold in pet stores with "kits", which includes supplies required for their care. Many times, the enclosure provided in these kits is a standard ten gallon aquarium. A ten gallon aquarium is not appropriate housing for an adult box turtle, and if sold as part of a care kit, is an indication that the store does not know what the animals really require.

Lighting. You will need a good UVA/UVB bulb, most are Fluorescent. Repti Sun by Zoo Med is a good bulb for this. You will also need a bulb for a basking spot. This can be a regular bulb or a flood light bulb depending on your tank size. There are some bulbs on the market called Mercury Vapor Bulbs that give off heat and UVA/UVB, they run around $30 but many people swear by them.

Heat. *Many box turtle husbandry problems can be avoided by simply offering one area of the cage that is heated to 85-88 degrees F. This can be accomplished in a number of ways. Heat rocks however, are not suitable heat sources for box turtles. Heat rocks provide only one small area of localized heating, and are difficult for box turtles to utilize. Often, heat rocks are too hot and can cause serious thermal burns. If a heat rock must be used, bury it in a substrate such as peat moss to prevent the box turtles from burning themselves. The best sources of heat for box turtles are either overhead incandescent heat lights or quality undertank heating pads. They can be used in conjunction with each other quite effectively to provide daytime and nighttime heat areas. Whatever source of heat is used, it must provide an area of the cage where the ambient (air) temperature where the animal is basking is 85-88 degrees F. Undertank heaters can be left on a night to keep one side of the cage warm without disturbing the box turtle's sleep. During the day, the heat light and heating pad should be left on for 10-12 hours. At night, turn off the heat light, and if temperatures in your house do not drop below 60 degrees F, you may turn off the heat pad as well. The enclosure the box turtle is in must be set-up to provide a thermal gradient, so that the turtle can warm up if its too cold, or cool down if its too hot. Hiding spots should be placed at both the warm spot and the cool spot so the box turtle can feel secure in either spot.

Humidity *Most box turtle subspecies require a relative humidity of 60-80% in at least one area of their enclosure. Box turtles that are not provided with the correct humidity often suffer from infected and swollen eyes and ear infections. Box turtles kept in enclosures with low humidity spend a lot of time buried in an effort to reach an area that is moist. Providing high humidity is easy. In one corner of the enclosure, provide some peat moss and wet it down with water until it is fairly moist. A hiding area, such as a cardboard box or large plastic container with ventilation holes should be placed over the wet peat moss area. This area is the box turtle's "humidity site" and will help to keep the relative humidity high. Peat moss dries out rather quickly, especially in dry climates, so it must be checked constantly and rewetted as needed. In addition, a large, shallow water dish should be provided so the turtles can soak. Box turtles must have clean water available at all times.

Bedding There are several things you can use for bedding. Ones that hold moister and are non abrasive are best. You can use prepackaged ones like Bed a Beast or use clean topsoil that doesn't have any perlite or vermiculite in it. Some use a mix of clean play sand and sphagnum moss, but some say sand can be too abrasive.



Plants These aren't a major need, but a good idea because they can add hiding places and even a snack. Here is a list for Edible & Poisonous Plants:

Edible Plants for Tortoises and Turtles

There are many common ornamental and garden plants that turtles and tortoise relish. The scientific names for plants are provided in parentheses. These names are used world-wide. Common/regional names are also used however these names may vary. One should always use the scientific name when selecting plants to insure that the correct plant is selected. Plants should be free of residues from herbicides, insecticides, fungicides and fertilizers. The plants listed below are considered safe and non-toxic for our shelled pets.

Tropical Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) flowers and leaves
Blue Hibiscus (Alyogyne huegelii) flowers
Chinese Lantern (Abutilon hybridum) flowers
Rose (Rosa spps) blossoms
Geraniums (Pelargonium spps) flowers
Mulberry tree (Morus alba) leaves
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) leaves and flowers
Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) flowers
Pansies (Viola) flowers

Poisonous Plants for Tortoises and Turtles
This list should not be considered complete. Plants that are listed below should not be fed to pets and should be avoided in enclosures in which pets are kept or have access. Questions about specific plants should be directed to your veterinarian or poison control at www.aspca.org

Arrowhead Vine (Syngonium podophyllum) 1
Azelea (Rhododendron occidentale) 2
Begonia 1
Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae) 2
Boston Ivy ( Parthenocissus tricuspidata) 1
Boxwood ( Buxus sempervirens) 2, 3
Buttercup family (Ranunculus spps) 2, 3
Caladium 1,3
Calia Lilly (Zantedeschia spps) 1
Candytuft (Iberis) 3
Castor bean (Ricinus communis) 2
Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum) 1
Chinaberry (Melia azedarach) 2
Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea) 2
Crowfoot (Ranunculus sceleratus) 2, 3
Cyclamen 2
Daffodil (Narcissus) 2
Dianthus 2
Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia amoena) 1
Elephants ear (Caladium) 1, 3
Euphorbia 2, 4
Ficus benjamina 3
Fiddleleaf fig (Ficus lyrata) 3
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) 2
Gardenia 4
Grape ivy (Cissus rhombifolia) 4
Heart Ivy (Hedera helix) 2, 3
Heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica) 2
Holly (Ilex) 2
Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis) 2, 3
Ivy (Hedera helix) 2, 3
Jerusalem cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) 2
Juniper (Juniperus species) 2, 3
Lantana (Lantana camara) 2, 3
Lilly of the Nile (Agapanthus africanus) 2, 3
Lilly of the Valley (Convallaria spps) 2
Lobelia 2
Majesty (Philodendron hastatum) 2
Marigold (Tagetes spps) 3
Mistletoe (Phorodendron flavenscens) 2
Morning Glory (Ipomoea spps) 2
Mother-in-law plant (Caladium) 1, 3
Mother-in-law tounge (Sansevieria trifasciata) 4
Mushrooms 2
Needlepoint Ivy (Hedera helix) 2, 3
Nephthytis (Syngonium podophyllium) 1
Nightshade (Solanum nigrum) 2
Oleander (Nerium oleander) 2
Parlor Ivy (Philodendron cordatum) 2, 3
Periwinkle (Vinca spps) 2
Philodendron 1, 3
Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) 4
Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) 1, 3
Pyracanthra 2
Rhododendron (Ericaceace)
Rosary Bean (Abrus precatarius) 2
Rubber tree (Ficus elastica decora) 3
Schefflera 1, 3
Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum maximum) 2, 3
Spider mum (Chrysanthemum morifolium) 2, 3, 4
Split leaf Philodendron (Monstera delicosa) 1
String of Pearls (Senecio rowleyanus or S. herreinus) 2
Sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus) 4
Umbrella tree (Schefflera actinophylla) 1, 3


Explanation of toxicity:

1.Oxalates: these plants contain oxalate salts. Contact with the sap can cause burning, swelling and pain. Treatment includes rinsing mouth and washing skin with mild soap and water. Monitor for difficulty swallowing and/or breathing and drooling. Monitor for irritation, swelling or blistering of mouth and oral tissues.
2.Toxic or Potentially Toxic: These plants can be toxic to varying degrees and should be considered with caution. Toxic effects can range from mild irritation to severe organ damage. Call poison control or your veterinarian if you think your pet ingested these plants.
3.Dermatitis: contact with sap can cause skin rash, itching or irritation. Rinse with water and if irritation persists, contact your veterinarian.
4.Unknown: Suspected toxicity but information incomplete. If contact or ingestion occurs contact poison control and your veterinarian.

Thanks to this Site, http://gctts.org/WS/WS.php/Public/EdibleAndPoisonousPlants


Large Rocks or Slate Having something ruff to climb and eat on can help keep your box turtles beak and claws short.

* From: Box Turtles-Difficult, but Fascinating Captives. http://www.kingsnake.com/rockymountain/RMHPages/RMHpr01.htm

Good Luck!!

Answer 2

1. Sounds like a 3-toe to me. The site below has good photos and ID aids. (FYI- Three-toes are a subspecies of Eastern or Carolinian, with similar basic cares.)

2. The best general box turtle site I know is http://www.boxturtlesite.org . I predict you will be surprised by how much work these guys are- since they are supposed to be 'easy pets'.

For example- they need a much bigger tank than you might think. Suggested minimum size is 4'x4' (yeah, 48"x48"!). You need high humidity, burrowing area, good heat control, lighting that offers ultra-violet, and a diet that is mostly live insects and worms (not mealworms)

3. Wild-caught turtles generally make terrible pets. They hold on for a while, but the shock and stress of capture is hard for them to get over. Most people who do this will lose the turtle within a year, while these things have a natural lifespan of 60 years or more (one speciman in New York is pretty reliably considered to be over 100!)

4. Just FYI- it is probably illegal to keep this turtle. Most states that have them protect them in one way or another. In my state, for example, they actually fall under several different laws. Enforcement of these laws are pretty lax, and no one is too interested in busting kids for it. The problem is that in most of their range, these poor guys are pretty threatened and have low reproduction rates.

5. My 2 cents worth: Keep the turtle for a few days to watch and enjoy, then release it where you found it. It needs time to get to a good hibernation site (which is another complicating factor in trying to keep it captive this time of year.) If you guys enjoyed it, set up a good box turtle habitat and get a captive bred speciman.

Answer 3

You could put a head of iceburg lettuce (WASH IT- it can contain pesticides) and it would be fun to eat and he will also play with it. I am not an expert on turtles, but you could buy mealworms that he could or also salad mixes you can buy at the store.

Answer 4

The website I have provided should give you all the info you need to care for your critter!
Good luck!

Answer 5

well feed it lettuce tomatoes , grepes and put in a tank wher it will have enough room to exercise and it migh t need a heat lamp ypu shoul google it