what is the best way to start a compost pile?

Question

i have the space, i'm just looking for the best way/technique to start.

Answer 1

Almost any organic material can be used to start a compost pile, but be cautious when using left over food or garbage that can attract rats, insects and/or other pests. Weeds, grass clippings and old garden plants work best. Besides, putting weeds to good use provides generous consolation after the havoc they may have caused last season.

A compost pile should be kept above ground at a well-drained location. The site should be close enough to the garden for convenience, but not so close to be an eyesore or a hindrance during gardening activities.

When piling a compost heap, do not pack the organic matter too tightly together because air circulation is necessary for proper decomposition. As the material begins to decompose, turn the pile approximately every 10 to 14 days to expose more material to the air. Adding a ventilation shaft aids aeration.

The compost pile should be kept moist at all times, but not waterlogged. Air and moisture are critical for decomposing fresh organic matter to humus.

For maximum decomposition, nitrogen and nutrients should be added to the compost pile each time it is turned. Some nutrients are found in the compost naturally, but generally not in quantities large enough for rapid decomposition. To supplement the nutrient level, an all-purpose organic or chemical fertilizer should be sprinkled over each layer or material added to the heap.

When the pile is started, it is necessary to add some garden soil. Microorganisms in the soil aid the decomposition process.

Another way to speed decomposition is to place the organic material through a soil shredder. This reduces the size of the material being composted and presents more surface area to the air thereby increasing the rate of decomposition. A soil shredder can be found at your local garden center.

Compostable materials also deteriorate more rapidly when organic material is greener and the air temperature is warmer. In warm weather, organic material should be turned at least every two to three weeks and will decompose in about three months.

Compost piles can be contained in areas the minimum size of three feet by three feet, and three feet high. Others are larger and have more than one compartment for the different stages of decomposition. These stages include fresh material, decomposing vegetation, and finished humus. Some can be purchased ready made, but most people construct them out of wire mesh, railroad ties, cement blocks or wood plates stood on edge. Make sure the bin has a trap door near the bottom so the finished humus can be easily removed.

Answer 2

It can be easy or complicated. If it smells, you are doing something wrong. Outside is easier. You don't have to add any bugs, worms, or starters. Speed varies. The best size is 4' cubed, give or take a foot in each dimension. If larger, air cannot reach the center; if smaller, the pile won't heat up. Try to have a mix of 2/3 high carbon material (leaves, sawdust, wood chips) and 1/2 high nitrogen material (grass clippings, table scraps). If you have too much of the first, the rate will be slower. Too much of the second and the pile will stink. If it does, get in there with a spading fork and turn it over so more air can get in. Never use oils, grease, or meat in the pile. The more finely you can chop the material, the faster it will compost and the less likely it is to attract rodents. Every so often, toss a little soil into the pile; it provides the micro-organisms you need..

Answer 3

You'll probably get suggestions to use wire to contain the material. Another way that you will find in gardening magazines is to make a concrete slab about four by eight feet for a small amount of compost. Build the back up about two and a half feet high. The same on the sides. Pile the waste material, keep it moist, turn it every week.
My way is much easier. I've always had really big gardens, so I had tons of scrap. I simply piled it up in an out-of-the-way place. Next year when garden time came around, I would fork off all the un-rotted material from the top. The center and bottom was just right for the garden. The un-rotted material from the top of the heap was the beginning of next year's pile.

Answer 4

On the smallest scale one might use a plastic crate that milk is deleivered in to vendors.

Compost by it's definition and design is "waste"

That can be food or plant matter.

It would be advisable to include soil into the mix, keep the composting venture outdoors, and trun, nurtur, monitor, wet it, on a regular basis, allow air circulation, allow insect and worm intrusion, and your own monitoring of what you include and process.

I do have a suggestion, as an aside, and certainly this can't work for everyone.

Try to include in the process, only those substances that will degrade rapidly, and allow them to become part of the soil under an outdoor compost bin, by stirring, truning, etc, regularly. The faster the debris is joined with the soil underneath the fixture, the faster a viable "compost" will happen and be useable.

I'd get a rabbit if I was attempting this, but that too isn't possible for everyone.

Rev. Steven

Answer 5

Chicken wire is not particularly good for compost bins as it can stretch out of shape very easily and does not wear well. Materials like 16-guage plastic-coated wire mesh and hardware cloth are better choices, as is hog wire.

Also, dependingg on your composting needs, you need to decide between a single bin or a multi-bin system.

Some people use the bins for different types of compost (regular compost, slow compost like woody plants, and leaves collected in the fall). Others like to have a three-bin system for the turning purposes.

Move the compost from one bin into the next, allowing it to turn. Then you can start a pile in the newly vacated bin. By the time the compost makes it into the third bin, it is ready for use. Others find that a single bin is sufficient for their needs, and just go out to stir it around occasionally.

Answer 6

depends on what your going to make your compost out of and how much. There are compost barrels you can purchase if you plan on only making enough for a few flower beds. You add to barrel and turn it every so often. If you plan on making a large amount, here is what I suggest (note we have the horses to produce the manure)...

Pick a location for the pile that will be out of the way and not disturbed until you turn it.

Add to the pile (again we use horse manure and lime to reduce acidity) as it becomes available.

Cover with a tarp to keep the heat in and assist in the break down of what ever you are using.

Every other week turn the pile to ensure even break down.

Occasionally we will add leafy greens (lettuce that went bad in the fridge etc) but avoid things such as grass clippings, they may contain weed seeds that will sprout and cause more problems that what it's worth. Also, other things you add may contain parasites or disease that will kill you garden, becareful when selecting what to use.

When you are ready to use the compost, spread and till into the land. You may want to have it tested to make sure it is not too high in acid etc. Again adding lime will reduce the acid.

Good luck and happy gardening

Answer 7

Most cities have an Environmentally Friendly Centre.That is where I started out a few years ago.For a modest price I was able to buy a composter from them. Mine attaches to the ground and keeps rodents out, It is black which attracts the sun which you need to heat things up,also has vents. I add grass clippings,coffee grinds,vegetable scraps,tea bags and also garden clippings.Do not add any meat,fish etc. or you will have animals trying to get at it.If you have a dry summer add some water to it and you need to stir it all up a couple of times a season.I do not compose during the winter as there is way too much snow. The following Spring or summer you will have compost for your flowers.Pure Gold.

Answer 8

I encourage an enclosed bin (we have 3) a covered bin keeps the smell contained somewhat. We use 3 so we can build the compost in layers. As the food stuff decays we can move it to the next bin. So we always have one bin to put our food debris in, one bin that is "cooking" and one bin with compost ready to use in the garden. Check the link below for some neat organic gardening tips.

Answer 9

I find that useing concrete reinforceing wire to make cages the best. You'll need work gloves, pliers and a good wire cutter. Form into cylinders and start putting leaves, grass clippings small veggie items in them.
It can be far more complex if you so choose and the library has number books about the subject if you want to explore all the possibilities.
If you are instead talking about how it "starts" to decompose...don't worry IT WILL!!

Answer 10

You need nothing more than a place to put your leaves (best ground up) and grass clippings. Just keep stacking them on top and turn it over a few times a year. Good black dirt