how do you put up sheet rock?

Question

sheet rock

Answer 1

With general purpose plaster board screws.

More info here:
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infdrywall/infdrywall.shtm

Answer 2

I thought that this would be hard- but boy was I wrong- my husband and I did our whole basement. For best results have 2 people! We used a shim at the bottom (on the floor) because we are putting flooring in and then a baseboard as well. Then held it in place while another screwed it into the studs. My favorite part was actually spacaling the holes and taping the seams and spacaling over that. I let my husband do the sanding and the washing and now we are priming. The basement should be done sooner than later. Make sure your screws are close enough together to support the weight of the board without sinking too far in or cracking. Hope this helped in some small way! You can also check out the site below!

Answer 3

Ceiling goes up first and seams need to be staggered. Next starting at the floor turn the sheet horizontally and put a spacer at the bottom on both sides to raise it up about one inch in case there is flooring to be put in. Put the next sheet along side of the first and then stagger the next level like they do with bricks. Put Sheet Rock Screws in pairs usually six to eight across the four feet top to bottom. When you are done hanging the sheets then apply joint compound to the seam with a 6" Spackle knife and apply the paper or mesh tape to the seam. Smooth out the seam with the knife and move on. When all the seams are done then use the compound to fill the screw holes and any indentations. If there will be another wall covering like wall panel then you are done. If you are going to paint a smooth wall then you will have to apply the compound to the entire surface and then sand and wet sponge smooth. Do that about six or seven times to create a glass smooth surface. If you are going to use texture then you can hide most of the blemishes. Have fun it's a lot of work.

Answer 4

Measure up the ceiling and walls if you are doing both.....
Purchase 5/8" drywall 4' x 8' sheets...
Depends if this is existing conditions or new construction too...
Do the ceilings first..start in one corner and make sure the seems are stagared...then the walls....start at the floor and work up to the ceiling and make sure the seems are stagared...
The mud all the seems, tape the seems and mud again....sand to a finish...

Answer 5

This may be a long answer but I hope it helps...

I've been in the construction / remodeling business for 14 yrs and have hung many room with sheetrock. Doesn't take a brain surgeon but there are a few considerations.

First, if you are replacing a section of a wall, you must use the same thickness as the existing sheetrock. If not, I personally would go with 1/2" or 5/8".

Figure the sq. ft. of the room. This will help determine how many sheets you will need. Sheetrock normally comes in two common sizes, 4'x8' and 4'x12'. The 4x8 sheets cover 32 sq. ft. while the 4x12 cover 48 sq. ft..

Example: For simplicity's sake, let's say you are sheetrocking a 12'x12' room with standard 8' walls. The ceiling area would be 144 sq. ft. and the walls would all be 96 sq. ft. (12 x 12 = 144 and 8 x 12 = 96). Considering the room is 12 ft. square I would go with 4 x 12 sheets to minimize cutting and mudding. Three sheets would do the ceiling nicely (144 sq. ft ceiling divided by 48 sq. ft = 3). Two sheets each for each wall (96 sq. ft. wall divided by 48 sq. ft. = 2) So 3 sheets for the ceiling plus 8 sheets for the four walls would mean you need 11 sheets to do the room. Not all rooms in real life would be this easy to figure but I hope you get the idea. In most cases you will have places where the ends of the sheetrock butt together but we'll get to that.

The ceilings come first, and this is definitely a case where many hand make light work. It will take at least two people for 8' sheetrock and three for the 12' sheets. You will want to run the sheetrock perpendicular to the direction the joists are running. That way the ends of the sheetrock can be screwed off closer than the 'field'.

I always start by chalking a line 48 1/2 inches from the wall. This way if there is any slight curvature in the wall (and there almost always is) your first run will be perfectly straight, insuring there will be minimal gaps in the rest of the runs. Measure from the starting corner to the center of the joist that comes closest to, but less than, the length of your sheetrock. Chances are that it will not break exactly on a joist without having to cut it. Be sure that the end you cut is going in the corner with the factory end breaking on the joist. It is always better to have the factory cut end meeting each other.

Using ladders or benches or whatever method you choose, as long as it is sturdy and safe, place the sheet against the ceiling with the cut end in the corner and the edge of the sheet on your chalk line. You can use either sheetrock nails or screws to fasten it, I prefer screws myself so in my explanation I'll be talking about screws but this applies to nails also. Screw the sheet off on the ends every 6 inches or so, while screwing off the middle section (the 'field') every 12 inches using two screws two inches apart. Make sure that the heads of the screws or nails are slightly below the surface of the sheetrock but not so deep as to break the paper covering. Measure from the end of this sheet to the other corner and cut a sheet to fit. Screw in place as described above. On the next run, be sure that you stagger the end joints at least 2 ft. from each other. I prefer 4 ft. because this works whether your ceiling joists are on 16” or 24” centers. Make sure to minimize gaps between the edges and ends of the sheets. Continue until the ceiling is finished.

Now the wall, and this is where I differ from the above posts. Unless you are using wide crown molding around the top of the wall, I ALWAYS run the sheets horizontally and hang the top first. This way you have the option to simply mud the corners where the ceiling and wall meet. Measure from the corner to a wall stud and cut accordingly. Start a few nails about one inch from the top edge while the sheet is leaning against the wall. Now lift the sheet until it butts the ceiling and drive the nails in to hold it while you screw it off using the same spacing as the ceiling. After you have run the entire top of the wall you will be ready to hang the bottom run. To do this, place the sheet against the wall, use a flatbar and a block as a lever to lift it against the upper run and screw it off. Continue around the room.

You will need to take careful measurements for the cutouts for light fixtures, switches, receptacles and such as you go. It's better to take the time to 'measure twice, cut once' than to try to patch a botched job later.

Cutting sheetrock is easy with a razor knife and a straight edge. We use a 'T-bar', but any straight edge will do. Measure from the end of the sheet top and bottom, place straight edge on marks and score the face paper with the razor knife. Stand the sheet up and bend it slightly, it will break on the scored mark. Then cut it on the other side at the bend with knife and there ya go.

Now comes the fun part, mudding (taping and spackling). I use paper tape myself but there is also self adhesive mesh tape available too.

Using a 6” broadknife, fill the joints with mud and run the paper centered in the joint. Run the broadknife over it again to set the tape in the joint and go over it again with another coat of mud. Do this on the end joints as well. Fill all screw divots with mud by pushing the mud into the divot and then scraping off the excess. Let dry and sand out high spots, making sure not to sand so much that the paper is exposed. Repeat this 2 to 3 times as necessary to achieve the desired smoothness. This may take many times for a gloss paint finish, or just twice for a wallpapered finish. Your eyes and hands will tell you when your done.

Sorry this response is so long, but i wanted to be sure to try to cover the whole procedure.

Good luck with your project, I think you'll like doing it and be proud that you DID IT YOURSELF!

PS: A broadknife is a wide putty knife that comes in widths from 3” up to about 12”. Start with the 6” knife and work up to the 12” knife on the final application.

Answer 6

You need to put up some ferring stips that are sold in Home Depot or Lowes and then nail the sheet rock onto the ferring strips.