Why has my turtle stopped eating lately?

Question

I have had a red earred slider for about two years now, and within the past week or so, he hasn't really been eating much. Usually when I drop some turtle pellets in the tank, he eats them all within seconds. He has done this once before right after I got him, but I'm not sure if theres some particular reason for this.

I have a UV light and his water has just been changed. I live in FL, so the weather doesn't change too drastically from the seasons, but regardless, his tank is indoors. His other food had run out, and I got some him some more, but it wasn't the exact same brand and alil dif, but I didn't really think that would matter. Now after reading some feedback, I do notice that he is not as active lately and seems to sleep alot more. Thanks for the help....

Answer 1

Hi! You say you have a UV light? Does it say UVB? Or just UVA? It is very very important to have a UVA/UVB light that emits at least 5% UVB but 10% is better!

for the not eating, read this,


* Is the turtle kept warm enough? If turtles get too cool, they will stop eating.

* Does the turtle like the food you offer? Try out different foods. Some turtles can be very finicky eaters, especially in the beginning. And they have definite likes and dislikes. Most turtles will eventually take small earthworms that are wiggling in front of their nose. Start feeding favorite foods, then slowly introduce other items.

* Is your turtle exposed to too much stress? This is often a cause in new animals. Stress can be caused by handling, traveling, tank mates. New turtles will often not eat properly for several weeks. Be patient and keep trying.

* Is your turtle healthy? Not eating can be a symptom of other problems. If your turtle has been eating well and suddenly stops, a health problem is a likely reason. Take a fecal sample to your veterinarian. (Fecal samples need to be no older than 4 hours, and you need to store them in water in the refrigerator.)

* Don't panic! A turtle can go without food for weeks, even months, and when it feels well again, it will eat again. See a veterinarian, if you think you are doing everything right, and the animal does not eat for more than 2 weeks.

This was found here.
http://www.petstation.com/waturtl.htm...

Other info:

1., take him to a Herp Vet to make sure they are healthy http://www.nytts.org/nytts/helpnet.htm.....

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vets_for_h...

2. get them the largest tank you can afford. A good rule of thumb is 10 gallons per inch of shell BUT they will get larger so it just makes good sense if you buy big. If you can't afford a traditional tank, get a rubbermaid bin. For substrate, use river rocks larger than the turtles head or nothing. Sliders like and need deeper water, so fill the tank.

3. Filtration is a must turtles need a clean habitat, they produce lots of waste. Try for a filter that is made for at least twice what size tank you have. For example, you buy a 20g tank, then get a filter for a 40g tank.

4. Basking, turtles need to be able to come completley out of the water to dry off. You will need to make them a spot to sun themselves. You can use a variety of things, driftwood, rocks piled up, a dock. a log. etc. You will need a special light for your basking spot to simulate the sun, its called a UVA/UVB light you need one with an output of at least 5%, but the higher the better. You also need a light for warmth, buy a clamp lamp and use a household bulb for this. Your water should be mid to high 70's with the basking spot 10 degrees higher. If you can't regulate the water temps, you will need to buy a submersible heater, but in FLA this prob. isn't a prob for you!

Ok now for feeding. Turtles need a varied diet. IMPORTANT***Water Turtles Need to be Fed In The Water***

Hatchlings
Hatchlings should be fed everyday for the first year of their lives. They should be given as much as they can eat in 10 to 15 mins time or as much as you could fit into their head if hollow. You can feed them all of it at once or you can slit it up into 2 feedings.

Hatchlings tend to be more Carnivorous than adults, so make sure to check out the suggestions of live and protein-rich foods below for how to supplement accordingly. (Make sure you still give fruits and veggies at this stage!)

Juveniles/Adults
Once your turtle reaches the 4" mark, we recommend that you change their feeding schedule to every other day. Giving them greens or live plants in between.

Adults tend to become more Omnivorous, so make sure to check out the suggestions of fruits and vegetables below.

Vitamins and Calcium
You should supplement your turtle's diet with both vitamins and calcium, every third feeding or once a week. To give them vitamins many people will give them a Vitamin Bath once a week. You can also either soak the pellets in a liquid vitamin or dampen them and roll them in a powder vitamin before feeding.

It is recommended you have a light that supplies UVA and at the very least a 5.0 UVB output. The UVB is necessary for the absorption of calcium and vitamin D3. Turtles need both calcium and Vitamin D3 for strong bones and shells.

**Feeding Tip Feedings should be done in a separate container so that you do not have to frequently change the water nor the filter media.


Common Diet Errors

Feeding Cat or Dog Food
Despite what some pet store employees may tell you, turtles should not be fed dog or cat food (Sounds insane, but we've heard it!)

Pellet Only Diets
Pellets provide many benefits, but variety is key!
Supplement their diet with veggies, live foods and some fruits. Check out our safe list below.

Giving in to Beggars
Turtles will always beg whether you give in or not- they know you are the supplier of food!
Supplement between feedings with greens or live foods they have to chase to eat. ( Iceberg lettuce is a common filler that doesn't contain much nutritional value, but will keep them content.)


Safe Feeding List

Commercial Foods (This is just a few of them on the market)
* Tetra Reptomin
* ZooMed's Aquatic Turtle Food
* Exo Terra
* Wardley's Reptile Premium Sticks
* HBH Turtle Bites

Frozen/Canned (For treats)
* Spirulina-enriched Brine Shrimp
* Bloodworms
* Plankton
* Krill
* ZooMed's Can O'Crickets, Grasshoppers, or Meal Worms

Live Foods (Carnivorous)
* Guppies or Rosies Reds (no goldfish they are too fatty and have very little nutritional value)
* Crickets (Gut-Loaded)
* Pinhead Crickets (for smaller turtles)
* Earthworms, Night Crawlers
* Ghost Shrimp
* Aquatic Snails/Apple Snails
* Slugs
* Wax Worms, Super Worms

**Be careful about Wild-Caught foods, they can carry parasites that can be transferred to your turtle. Freezing Wild-Caught foods for a month will help to kill off some parasites.

Fruits (small amounts for treats only)
* Apples
* Bananas
* Grapes
* Melon
* Tomato
* Strawberries

**Should be cut up in small, bite-size or match-like sticks that will be easy for the turtle to bite into and not choke on.

Veggies
* Squash
* Zucchini
* Carrots
* Greens- Red Leaf, Romaine, Collards, Kale, Dandelion Greens

**Stay away from Spinach. Make sure to cut the veggies in bite-size or match-like sticks so your turtle can eat them easily. Iceberg lettuce is a good filler, but contains little/no nutritional value!

Aquatic Plants
* Anacharis
* Duckweed
* Water Hyacinth
* Water Lettuce
* Water Lily

*Salmonela-To keep down the risk wash your hands after handling like you said, don't put them in your mouth and keep the water clean.

Ok I think I covered everything, make these corrections and see what happens. If you have additional questions you may email me, or you can find me at http://www.turtleexchange.com/forum/inde... It's an awesome turtle and pet forum. Great people who are happy to help. I am julia23608 on there, come check us out. Good luck with your turtle!

Answer 2

This time of year it is usually due to hibernation urges. Turtles are triggered to hibernate by falling temps and shortening light cycles. Yours is an indoor turtle, so it is the temps and light that it sees from its tank that count.

To counteract this, we do a 'super summer'- summer-like temps and light cycles- instead of 75-80, we boost about 5 degrees. We aim for a 12/12 light cycle (often, in our houses, the day cycles is a lot shorter). You say you are using UV already- good!

Now- besides eating, how are the other behaviors? Sluggish? Hiding? These are consistant with hibernation urges.

If it is still active, basking, energetic, then it just may be having a picky phase. Try some new foods- live foods often help here. At 2 years it is also ready for a little vegetation- try some dark leafy greens (lightly boiled to help them sink in the water). If it is still active and otherwise OK, we usually don't worry about these picky phases too much.

Answer 3

Hi. I go to a forum and at this time of year all turtles do do this becuase of the wather change. So you dont have to be scared. If you water is 78 witch it should be no worry for hibernation. And yes whoever asked if they hybernate yes you can but it is not recommended. SO you dont have to worry about this and it may be sleeping very often now. If you want to join our forum you can becuase it has lot's of info and you can ask questions.

I have 3 res and they dont eat to much at this time of year so dont worry! And just to let you know they need uvb lights. and should have 10 gallons of water per inch of turtle hope that helps! Well heres the forum come and introduce yourself!
http://invisionfree.com/forums/Happy_Turtles_Pub/

Answer 4

He's sick. Do turtles hibernate? Never heard of a turtle vet before. How $$$much to you like your turtle? Seriously though, maybe cause it's getting colder. I don't know if turtles hibernate or migrate, but sounds like you should find out. Some animals that do just sleep and slow down a lot if they are in captivity. If they don't migrate/hibernate/slow down I'd say he's sick.

Answer 5

I have 5 red eared sliders and yours could have slowed down for many reasons from lower water temp, to possibly starting to hibernate. Do you have some sort of sun lamp on him as he needs this to get vitamin D to keep his shell from going soft. You say he's not eating much which means he is eating some and they do slow up there eating at times. Try some new foods. Is his water re lately clean?

Answer 6

Change in behavior is always a red flag, so good that you're trying to figure it out. Has he eaten the new food at all? Is he basking more than usual? Sleeping on the basking area?

I think you're right that in FL it is less likely to be seasonal changes. I would get your turtle to a vet.

Answer 7

It sounds like it's sick from not having a UV light and calcium defficiency. If your against killing animals then why are you killing your turtle? Not feeding it the diet it requires is slowly killing it, also not having a UV light is killing it. You should really take it to a vet and if you cant care for it properly then give it to a reptile rescue so it can get a good home.

Answer 8

For some reason our turtle does the same thing periodically usually around winter time I think.

Answer 9

Free your turtle in whre you got it from or in the bushes next to,
little water streems and he will eat & be happier!

Answer 10

call to a pet-store or vet that that knows and handles reptiles...
they are experts and are able to answer your qustions accurately.
I don't know where you are living but to turn the turtle loose is not a good option. good luck;Es