what additive can you add to clay soil to loosen it up?

Answer 1

You should add well rotted compost. By 'well rotted' it should be fine and dark brown in colour, without any large pieces or recognizeable fruit or vegetable scraps. You can also add sand, but whatever you do, DO NOT ADD ONLY SAND AND NO COMPOST. Clay and sand, once wet, basically make bricks. (Not what you're looking for, lol!) You should mix the compost and sand in a ratio of 3 parts compost to 1 part sand. I like to mix it in a big wheel barrow first and then till it into the garden bed.
Best of luck!!

Answer 2

We have lots of clay knobs in Missouri, too and our clients are constantly dealing with them. Gypsum is the mineral to use to begin breaking the clay. I've been working my clay based garden for 17 years now, and have just about got it right. We added gypsum pellets 3 times, at intervals of a couple of years. The more you work the soil, the more clay will turn up over time. Besides breaking the clay with gypsum, you'll need to add all the good nutrients that clay lacks. Well rotted compost and manure take care of that, but may be needed in larger amounts than you can easily do from your home. Got a friend who farms? Maybe she will share some old manure. Sterile manure and compost is available for purchase at any garden center. You may find your best prices, though, at a farmers' cooperative. If you're in a rural area this will be easy to find. If you're urban, make friends with your local garden center. If you're still having trouble with the weight of the soil, or its water retention qualities, you can fine tune with peat moss or sand ot perlite or vermiculite. Normally, your trouble is going to be that the soil won't drain properly, so the sand, perlite and vermiculite can help.

Answer 3

When we first started our beds, we too had to deal with hard clay ground. We brought in loads of sand and added lots or organic humus. In areas where we added more sand than humus it basically made a "concrete" like consistency. You don't want that. Course sand is useful as an amendment, but you need a fair amount of organic matter to balance it. This spring in an effort to correct the "concrete" like areas, I added sphagnum peat. At first, I was not impressed because my plants didn't seem to be doing any better. However, after a few months, I noticed a difference. I was especially pleased when planted a few things this fall in those areas. The soil was loose and easy to work with. Just be aware that peat takes a little while to work.

Mississippi State University Extension Service recommends that you use a little of two or three kinds of organic matter since different types work and decompose at different rates. Other choices include: composted manure, leaves, etc. However, I would not recommend adding any organic matter that has not been composted. Decomposing organic matter such as bark tend to depleat the soil of nitrogen.

It takes a while to get your soil conditioned. In the meantime, there are plants out there that do well in clay soils. Yarrow for example actually flops over in good humus soil. Mine just love it out in a part of the yard that I haven't made any amendments to. For more plants selections see this article from about.com: http://gardening.about.com/od/gardendesign/a/ClayPlants.htm

Hope this helps!

Answer 4

The answer adding gypsum is the best solution. The gypsum helps the clay to form tiny clumps. Clay is composed of tiny flat particles like shale or slate and the gypsum helps to prevent this type of structure. A good source for gypsum is drywall scraps from building projects. Just crush it up. The paper will decompose in the soil.

Answer 5

I own a garden center in Arkansas and here we are either all clay, all rock, or a sad combination of both! We sell several pallets a year of compost and manure. This seems to do the trick here. The compost helps loosen the soil and the manure gives it just enough beneficial nutrients to help any plants you plant get a good start. Good luck!

Answer 6

The first thing I do is to get out all of the leftovers i've on the cabinets I then go by way of the vegetable bin and notice what's in there i will be able to add. Next I do the identical with the freezer as it's a good way to get rid of luggage which are close to empty. I quite often have dried slit peas, pearl barley once all of that is underway I begin watching for seasons and tastes i will add. I'll hardly ever use stock cubes or stock as there will have to be adequate with the chook beginning from scratch i might ordinarily spend 90 minutes working on it. I have an aversion to adding tomatoes of any sort, however that is simply me as they do add various flavour. Chetak

Answer 7

I started with hard packed clay. I added compost (that is free from our local dump and quite good), gypsum powder, and some course sand. I tilled this all together quite well to a depth of 14 inches or more. Plants in beds and new lawn are all doing well.

Answer 8

the 1st element I do is to get out all the leftovers I even have on the cabinets I then circulate in the process the vegetable bin and notice what's in there i can upload. next I do an identical with the freezer because it rather is a sturdy thank you to do away with luggage that are virtually empty. I often have dried slit peas, pearl barley as quickly as all of it is underway I commence searching for seasons and tastes i can upload. i will infrequently use inventory cubes or inventory as there would desire to be sufficient with the fowl beginning from scratch i might in all likelihood spend ninety minutes engaged on it. I even have an aversion to including tomatoes of any sort, yet it is in simple terms me as they do upload a great style of flavour. Chetak

Answer 9

Till up the soil and till in Gypsum it coats the clay and helps break it down.

Answer 10

I would say Perlite, unless the clay is really thick and hard. In that case use some mulch, but you won't get an even consistency until it decomposes