Beef heart is good for long life, and regular water changes. Buy a fresh beef heart, cut out all the tough tissues and puree the rest in a blender with water. Freeze the result flat in a Ziploc baggie and break off bits for feeding once or twice a week.
Earthworm flakes are good for large numbers of fry. Fortunately, they sell flakes of it at pet stores.
Lots of water changes, frozen baby brine shrimp and egg yolk boiled in water and put through the blender are also good for fry.
Frozen peas thawed, popped out of their skins, and cut into bite sized pieces, and slices of cucumber are also good for them.
Female guppies can store sperm for six months, so they are pretty much always pregnant. Development of fry is dependent on water conditions, but they are capable of having fry every 28 days.
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2006-10-02 06:18:54
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answer #1
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answered by iceni 7
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Which question do you really want answered? Feed your guppies regular fish food from the pet store. Keep some type of thick artificial plants in your aquarium for the babies to hide in or the adults will eat them. Check your ph levels to make sure the water isn't too acid or too alkaline. Keep the temperature steady and don't let the aquarium get too cold or too hot.
2006-10-01 16:46:27
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answer #2
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answered by twistedmouse 3
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Guppies are very sensative to Ph balance in their water. If the Ph levels change, teh gupies feel a little trauma and act lethargic. And it's not uncommon for all of the females in a school to hatch fry at the same time, so she may be pregnant. As for getting them to live longer, I can't help you there. Good Luck!
2006-10-01 15:56:31
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous
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they may eat a slice of cucumber, but as long as you have high quality flake food they should be ok. the fry may not make it for long, they will get eaten by the adults and they will have a hard time getting to the food.
2006-10-02 02:41:50
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answer #4
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answered by fish lips 3
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i've never heard of guppies eating veggies . but placos & other bottom feeders do . check your water readings . make sure you are doing regular water changes . also make sure your tank isn't over stocked .
2006-10-01 16:41:26
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answer #5
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answered by bearangelcindy 2
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I've never heard of fish eating fruits and vegtables but maybe they can. Ask a vet.
2006-10-01 15:55:23
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answer #6
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answered by couchP56 6
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Um...at Petsmart they put I think it's cucumber in there tanks. Ask a vet or a fish person at a pet store.
2006-10-01 15:52:09
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answer #7
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answered by Anonymous
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what is a guppy.
2006-10-01 15:53:51
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answer #8
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answered by George K 6
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The first thing to do is replace 25% of the water. Whenever fish aren't acting quite right it's just a good thing to do. A water change lowers waste toxins and infectious organisms that could be bothering them, as well as giving their immune system a boost from the fresh clean water. Make sure the new water is the same temperature as the old water and add a good water conditioner to the tank before refilling the tank with the new water. All tanks need a 25% water change every week to keep the fish in good health.
Your tank is still pretty new so it could be trying to finish the break-in period. It can cause the fishes' fins to deteriorate as well as burn the gills, eyes and skin. The water change will help. Get a sample of water to your local fish store and ask them to test it for you. Many do it for free or just charge a small fee. You need to know what the ammonia (NH3), nitrite (NO2) and pH levels are. Knowing the ammonia and nitrite levels will tell you if the tank has completed it's first bio-cycle. They both will be at "zero" if it has done so. It means that beneficial bacteria is doing it's job and is finally maturing, consuming the toxins. If either are elevated at all, do another water change and test again the next day. Do a 25% water change every day that either toxin is up. The water changes help to dilute the toxins and make them more tolerable for the fish. You can even buy the kits to test the water yourself. Don't let the fish store tell you after they test the water that the levels are "fine" or are "okay". Get the actual levels of them. Don't let them talk you into buying a chemical or anything else to "solve the problem" either. It's their job to sell stuff but you don't need it. Water changes are more effective, more healthy, more reliable and much less expensive.
It is also possible that the affected fish is being picked on. Be sure that you have at least 2 females per male. Males want to breed constantly and will wear out a female if there aren't enough to distribute their, um, "amorous" attention amongst. ;-) If you have all males, they may simply be picking on each other. They live to breed and are looking for another fish to do that with. Sometimes it means fighting amongst males.
Here is my article on new tanks so you know what this crazy process is all about;
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New Tank Syndrome or Break-in Period
So you have a new tank and you filled it up, put the filter together, mounted the heater into place and turned on the lights. You have all the plants and decorations where you want them....
You are ready for fish.
But, your filter is not ready for a full tank of fish yet.
The filter is running and moving the water and cleaning out crud, right? Of course!
But a very important part of your filter is the part you can't see. An aquarium filter removes the larger visible stuff, but it also must remove the dissolved fish waste that turns into ammonia in the water. To do this, special bacteria must grow in the filter system and on the particles of gravel in the bottom of your tank. This process occurs even on a limited scale in little fish bowls that have no filter in them.
This is "New-Tank Syndrome" or the "Break-in Period". The entire process takes 6 to 8 weeks to complete because these "nitrifying" bacteria grow quite slowly.
Start off with only one or two hardy fish (no more than 2 total inches of fish) for every ten gallons of water and don't add more until the 6 to 8 weeks has gone by. Hard to be patient, but it is worth it to keep your fish alive and healthy. As a matter of fact, the bacteria cannot develop without fish in the tank. You can let that tank sit forever without fish in it, but as soon as the first fish goes in the process begins. Avoid changing the filter pads during break-in. This removes the bacterial colonies that are essential to a balanced aquarium. You can rinse the filter pad out in a container of aquarium water. This will preserve most of the bacteria colonies while still allowing your filter to flow freely. Even using bacteria additives and water conditioners when you first set up the tank will not make a tank begin the cycle by itself. If there are no fish to provide food (fish waste) for the bacteria, the beneficial bacteria cultures will die and you will have to start the colonies all over again once fish are added to the tank. Once the tank has completed the initial cycle, you can change the filter pads every 4 weeks or so. But for now, just rinse them.
Feed your new fish VERY lightly. Any excess food will cause additional waste your system cannot afford to have right now. If you see food floating around or lying on the plants and gravel after five minutes, too much food is going into the tank. Cut back a little each time you feed until it is ALL gone 5 minutes after you feed them. Feed them once a day.
During this "break-in period" your tank will become cloudy and milky looking. You may have to tolerate this for the entire break-in period but it is only temporary. Changing 25% of the water three times a week until the break-in period is over helps a great deal. Changing water reduces the ammonia and nitrites that rise while the bacteria continues to multiply. If ammonia and/or nitrites become too high, your fish will become stressed and possibly die. Use a good water conditioner when you replace the water and make sure it is the right temperature to avoid shocking your fish.
When the break-in is over after 6 to 8 weeks and there are no nitrites or ammonia present in the water you can slowly add more fish. Add one or two every week until you reach the desired population. This allows the bacteria to adjust to the new population every time before adding more. Monitor the nitrites and ammonia to be sure they don't come up. If they do, make a 25% water change and check them again. Don't add the next fish until the levels are down again.
The safe maximum population for any size tank is one inch of adult fish for every gallon of water in the tank. Do some research to be sure of the fish you are interested in. Even though they are small when you buy them, you have to base your population calculations on full-sized adult fish. Many hobbyists have up to two inches per gallon but this can be risky. If a water quality issue arises or a disease occurs it will spread fast and furious in an over-populated tank. In any case, 25% water changes every week to two weeks are absolutely essential for the health of your fish.
Following these guidelines will help you get your new tank on the right track.
**********Guppies are generally kept in bare, unfurnished tanks by breeders. This is to assure you of being able to tell how clean or dirty the tank is, and when you need a water change.
One advantage of breeding guppies is that although you will need many tanks, they can be small tanks. Five to ten gallon tanks are ideal for breeding and raising young fish. Older or large fish may require fifteen gallon tanks. It can take a minimum of six tanks for each line of guppies you have.
The Guppy, although a hardy fish, requires regular water changes. It is best to do regular partial water changes. At least one third of the water should be changed weekly. If your tank is heavily populated, you may need to change larger amounts. For a heavily populated tank of fry, you may need to change 75% of the water once a week. Try to change less water in a tank with fully developed males. Lots of new water can damage the tail of a mature fish.
A foam or sponge type filter works good for bare breeding tanks. If you have a large or heavily populated tank, you may want to use two of these filters. When you clean your filters, only clean one at a time if you use two. If you only use one, don't clean your filter the same day you change the water. Wait two to three days after you clean the filter, and then change the water. This will help keep the water from becoming cloudy. If your water is cloudy, you either have a bacterial bloom, or excessive levels of ammonia building up in the tank. This can be from overfeeding, or not changing enough water. When this occurs, do a partial water change and feed only very lightly for a couple of days until the water clears. It is also important to scrub the glass when you clean your tank, as a lot of slime will build up if you don't.
If you are keeping your Guppies in a show tank and not breeding, they can be kept in a decorated tank with gravel and live or artificial plants. I would recommend an under gravel filter with power heads for this type of setup. Power heads will push your water much faster than a small air pump. Use a small power head for guppies so the current is no too strong for them.
The guppy can accept a wide variety of water temperatures ranging from 70 to about 82 degrees. The most important thing is to keep the temperature constant. The warmer your water, the more active the fish will be. This will help your guppy grow and develop faster, but a fish raised in the 80 plus temperature range will tend to die younger than a fish raised in the 70 degree range.
Guppies are best fed small amounts of food at least three times a day. A good feeding routine is to feed a flake food first in the morning. Feed lightly and wait about 30 minutes for them to clean it up. Then feed live brine shrimp. I feed live brine to my adults as well as fry. If you feed the shrimp first, they may not be as eager for the flake food after having eaten the shrimp. They are always eager to eat live shrimp. You may feed more than 3 times per day. In addition to the live baby brine, whcih can be fed twice a day or more, I feed the new decapsualted brine eggs. If you use these, let them soak in a small amount of water for 5- 10 minutes before you feed. Just make sure that you feed small amounts at a time, and that the last feeding has all been consumed before you feed more.
Freeze dried Plankton is an excellent food which will help brighten the colors of your guppies. They also like brine shrimp very much. If you are breeding guppies, you will need to hatch brine shrimp daily for the babies. They will grow much faster on this than they will on flake food alone. As for the flake food, it is best to offer a variety. It is better to buy a small amount of 2 or 3 different types of good quality flake than a large amount of one type that will last a long time. Rotatng the different varieties will help keep them interested. They will get bored with eating the same food all of the time, just as you would. It is important not to feed more than the fish can eat in about five minutes. It is better to feed small amounts more often than a lot at one time. If your fish don't swim up to greet you, don't feed them.
2006-10-01 18:52:35
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answer #9
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answered by dale621 5
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