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7 answers

Two methods to try:
Water -- take cutting 6 - 8 " long (newer growth is best) Strip leaves and put in clear container of water. Watch for roots and repot when you see them. (more than just a couple of hair roots of course.)

Soil -- same cuttings and stripping of leaves. Use soilless soil or light potting mix. dip end of cutting in root hormone, put in pot and water. Put pot in clear zip type bag and close. When new leaves appear you have roots.

2006-09-29 06:30:15 · answer #1 · answered by reynwater 7 · 1 0

Buddleia Cuttings

2016-10-04 14:10:45 · answer #2 · answered by ? 4 · 0 0

I once took cuttings from a Buddleia I had, excellent results with little messing about. I had to cut it back for some reason, and just raked out a shallow trench about six inches deep, and filled it with sharp sand, then put the hardwood cuttings in the trench about 4" deep and heeled them in. Dipped ends in rooting powder first. I did this around oct/nov. time, the cuttings ranged from appro. 15-18" long. The next year I checked now and again for tell tale new shoots/growth and around 75% rooted (under a young apple tree as was only space available at the time, so was a little shaded but also gave some protection from frost).Just watered if necessary. (Only when I remembered mostly :-) ) I thought that was a very acceptable success rate, considering my effort was on a pretty casual basis.

2006-09-30 12:24:07 · answer #3 · answered by Dick s 5 · 0 0

Have found some info hope it helps!!!



Q. I have a beautiful butterfly bush that I would like to propagate. Can I start new plants from cuttings? If so, how do I go about it?

A. Butterfly bush (Buddleia spp.) can be propagated from seed or by cuttings. If you are particularly fond of the one you have, you should take cuttings and root them. Those offspring will be identical to the parent. If you propagate the plant from seeds, not all the offspring will be the same as the parent.

Ideally, cuttings should be taken from May to August. Take 6-inch cuttings from the tips of the stems, including the terminal bud. Make your cut(s) just below the node, which is the point on the stem where the leaves attach. Nodes contain undifferentiated cells that can become roots or shoots, depending on their environment. Be sure to remove buds, flowers and fruit so that the plant directs its energy toward growing roots and putting on vegetative growth rather than flower and seed production.

You want at least one pair of nodes below the rooting medium so they develop into roots. Two pairs of nodes are even better. Gently strip off any leaves that will be below the rooting medium or that touch the surface of the rooting medium. Keep as many leaves as possible above the rooting medium. The more leaves are available to undergo photosynthesis, the more carbohydrates are produced to nourish the new root system.

Use a rooting hormone such as Rootone to encourage rapid rooting. Rooting hormone is widely available at garden centers. It comes in single-use foil packs, which should be sufficient for your needs. Avoid buying more than you need, because it has a short shelf life, and you need only a little bit to stimulate rooting. If you plan to take lots of cuttings, rooting hormone is available in small jars. Always pour a small amount from the jar onto a piece of foil or paper, then dispose of the unused portion. Never contaminate the jar by pouring the unused portion back into it.

You can hasten the rooting process by slightly wounding the lower part of the cutting (the part that will be below the rooting medium). Gently scrape a few strips of bark, but do not completely girdle the cutting. Roll the wounded portion of the cutting into the rooting hormone to make sure all sides are covered. Gently tap the end of the cutting to shake off any excess.

Rooting media include coarse sand, vermiculite, perlite, a mix of peat and perlite, or even a soilless seed-starting mix. Ideally, a rooting medium should be sterile, low in fertility, well-drained to allow sufficient oxygen, yet moisture-retentive to prevent the cuttings from drying out too much. For butterfly bush, coarse sand or perlite would work well because those materials have sharp drainage. Butterfly bush is a drought-tolerant plant that would suffer in a highly moisture-retentive mix.

Use individual 4-inch containers for the cuttings. Moisten the medium thoroughly before planting the cuttings. Use a pencil to poke holes in the medium rather than trying to shove the cutting into it directly. Doing so can break the cuttings or at least scrape the rooting hormone off on the way in. Firm the medium around the cutting for support. Keep the medium uniformly moist while the cuttings are rooting and pushing new growth. Place the cuttings in bright, indirect light.

Once they have developed a decent root system and put on some new growth, you can plant them out in a protected location. Be sure not to let them dry out completely, but do not overwater them either. You can move them to their permanent spot next spring.

2006-09-29 06:37:33 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

This Site Might Help You.

RE:
how do i take and root cuttings from my buddlea bush?

2015-08-16 20:02:45 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

I think you dip the roots in some sort of rooting horomone then put the cutting into a planter with potting soil and place an opened ziploc bag over it with one side of the bag pushed into the dirt with a stick so the other side is propped up and open--this way it will get air to it.

2016-03-18 02:27:37 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

you can propagate this bush by taking short, soft cuttings in late june in a propagator or sun frame. or you can do it by hard wood cuttings outside in october.

2006-09-29 06:27:45 · answer #7 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

With a sharp knife

2006-09-29 09:04:50 · answer #8 · answered by MIKE D 2 · 0 0

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