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I have to make my matron-of-honor dress for my sister's wedding; I've sewed simple things, like skirts and curtains. Anyway, my question is what size on the pattern should I use if my bust is the size for 18, but my shoulders/hips are a 10 or 12? (So many dresses do not have much curve allowance!) Should I cut the pattern along the "12" mark for the collar, and along the "18 mark for the sides of the top?

2006-09-27 13:52:36 · 3 answers · asked by Anonymous in Beauty & Style Other - Beauty & Style

3 answers

You should sew this dress in a cheap fabric first, and make a "muslin" as seamstresses call them, to see if the garment fits, and where your issues really lie - you definitely would prefer to waste cheap fabric with a similar feel to having to do this outfit multiple times out of expensive fabric to get the fit right. And for such an occasion as a wedding, you definitely want to have the fit look good in both the front AND the back of the garment.

I prefer to look at the patterns ACTUAL measurements for bust, hip, waist, as I prefer different amounts of fitting ease than what the pattern people think I need. If the pattern has these actual measurements on the back (most of them do), look at them and then take a tape measure and hold it up at that amount on your bust, waist and hips to see where to start. You can do the tapering that you mention in your question, but it would be best to trace your pattern onto thicker paper and leave the original intact so you are not cutting the original - you could trace it onto woven interfacing for ease of seeing the lines through the fabric. This way, if there is a problem, you still have the original pattern and don't have to buy a new one. You simply pin the interfacing to the fabric to cut out the pattern pieces.

All patterns are made for a b-size bra cup, and this sounds like you might have larger than that. If so, then you will need to perform some modifications to the pattern, specifically, a "full bust adjustment". Not knowing the style of your dress, here is a page that has multiple links for different style fitting issues that may help there.
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/digest.pl?c=23

Another suggestion is to "tissue fit" the dress to see if the shoulders/hips are right. I always do this so I can determine if I need to "petite" a pattern. http://sewing.about.com/library/sewnews/library/aatips21.htm

Good luck, with the sewing and the wedding, that is...!

2006-09-28 01:22:37 · answer #1 · answered by TyeDyePrincess 3 · 1 0

Well, I'm not a seamstress, but I do sew. My thoughts are cut the pattern for the size 18, then baste it together either by hand or machine (longer, loose stitches that you can easily pull out), Then gingerly try it on with it inside out and see where it needs to be taken in or left the way the way it is. You can have someone pin it for you or mark it with sewing chalk. You can always cut off, but it's pretty hard to add fabric once you've cut it. Good luck. I guess you could also take a dress that fits well, turn it inside out, and lay it on top of the pattern to see where it's bigger or smaller.

2006-09-27 21:08:21 · answer #2 · answered by Darby 7 · 0 0

go to the pattern websites like simplicity and use your measurements agains their measurements. Choose the size closest to your measurement. that's what I use to determine sizes when sewing with store bought patterns

2006-09-27 21:02:28 · answer #3 · answered by babig221982 3 · 0 0

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