I need to install a sheet rock wall against cement in my basement. What is the best method?

Question

Do I use 2x6? 2x4?. ????????

Answer 1

you put up a vapor barrier, plastic sheet with taped seams, first and then use DWC. Dry Wall Channel 16 inches on center. shot in with a ram set or hammer drilled with tap-cons. the ram set is less expensive. then put in rigid insulation. then drywall.

Answer 2

Well I have been a carpenter all of my adult life and I am 76 now and retired. (tired to) To start with I would use a product called DRY-LOCK on your concrete walls, Next I would put a border of 1X4s top, bottom, and ends, installed useing toggle bolts with flat heads so you can counter-sink the head of the bolt 3/16 inch bolts is enough
the length being determined by the thickness of the congrete block + 1/2 inch sheetrock + allow about 1 inch, My guess is about 3 1/2 to 4 inches long.Then put in your studs, useing 1X4s
16 inchs on center. The bolts only need to be about 36 inches apart. Make sure you measure correct and that you center your sheetrock at the end of each sheet. use 1inch or 1 1/8 inch drywall screws. your not going to support a house your only going to support the sheetrock, Don't forget to do your wireing? and they make elect. boxes for just that thickness. Have some in my basement, Unless your in a hurry, you can work as hard or as slow as you want, you have a cover over your head. Also I would plan on putting in a drop ceiling, it covers up a lot of overhead stuff, and gives your Electric wires a place to run.
Good Luck

Answer 3

First we sealed the walls with a cementicious sealer to assure no moisture to seep through the walls and it helps with dampness if the basement is below grade. Then we studded the walls out with 2x4 and attached them to the concrete floor with a Tap-Con gun which are used for shooting nails into concrete. We also allowed a small gap between the concrete wall and the frame for ventilation. Then we were ready for wiring and sheet rock. Good Luck.

Answer 4

We used 2x4 and framed out the walls and the corners, put insulation between the 2x4's, be sure to put wood between the studs so you will have a center 2x4 between the studs to screw the drywall too, we used lag bolts to ram into the concrete to hold the studs up, time consuming as you have to counter sink the lag bolts. Good Luck

Answer 5

You would have to use 2x4 as drywall nails and screws are 1-5/8" long and would hit concrete if thinner material was used. Also if you have concrete walls use a load nailer with liquid nail to attach the lathe to your wall on 16" centers. If it is concrete block walls use a masonry drill with a 1/4" bit and 2 12 penny nails and liquid nails to fasten your lathe.

Answer 6

only reason to use 2x6 would be to get greater insulation i the wall cavity......if the wall is completely under ground then nail 1 x 4 to the wall and install over that with no insulation......the ground will stay at 64-68 deg year round!

most common is to install 2x4.....dont forget to use a treated 2x4 plate on the floor ( assuming its concrete)

lic. gen. contractor

Answer 7

1/2" furing strips anchored with glue and concrete nails or screws will take up the least amount of room and be less expensive. You can use 1X1s anchored with molly bolts at the top and bottom and glue. You can use 2X4s but, they are harder to anchor. You can try just using glue on the sheetrock if the walls are dry and your climate is dry.

Answer 8

You'd have to transfer the load from the old foundation to the new support. Beam hangers aren't designed to support the rim joists, ( the supports for the house frame), they work the other way. This is a job for 'pro's who have 'on site' knowledge of the structure. Something can surely be done, but it needs to be done right. Get estimates before you negotiate a price for the house.

Answer 9

You'd be better off putting up furring strips on the concrete wall and insulating between them with styrofoam insulation board.
This will be much easier and will give you about 6" of extra room space.

Answer 10

I`m really suprised all the experts and contractors aren`t suggesting the use of pressure treated lumber, which is required by most if not all codes, against concrete or block walls