how do i winterize a swimming pool?

Answer 1

I've been asked this a few times, so wrote up a generic closing answer that is geared towards ingrounds, but can be applied to above grounds, to a point. You don't state if this an above ground or inground. The only difference in the following is that an AG's equipment may be mobile enough to bring inside, there is no diving board to deal with (usually) and the cover is a little different, being a cable secured one. Other than that, the rest of the following is valid for all pools.
Ideally, your closing starts a week before you actually get down to putting the cover on. Get your water balanced chemically first. That week allows you to do this.
On closing day: Vac the pool and drain it to just below the pool returns. They are typically the lowest point in the system. When drained to that point, add in a winterizing chemical kit (most pool shops sell them), they typically contain an algaecide, shock and sequestering agent . You're done at the pool for the moment. Head over to your pool equipment. If this is a sand filtered pool, you ought to have done a backwash, during the draining process, to clean out the filter. If a D.E. pool, then the same applies to clean off the elements. You can remove them later for a thorough cleaning. If a cartridge filter, just remove the cartridge and clean at your leisure.
For all filter types, there will be a drain plug, remove it and keep it out.
Over to the pump. All pumps will have 2 plugs, one midway back on one side and one directly in front. Remove them and place them in the pump basket along with your filter drain plug. It's a nice , safe place, that you won't lose them in, as you'll leave the pump basket right where it is. This next part all depends on your pool plumbing, you'll have to decide the best route as they are all plumbed differently and the many different ways to blow out lines would be a book unto itself. You'll need to tap into both the return and the suction lines. Typically for the returns, you disconnect a line between your filter and heater (if equipped) and for the suction, you can go directly in from the front of the pump, without disconnecting anything. Doing it this way, will allow you to blow all the water out of the heater, pool returns, any waterfall or fountain(if equipped) or attached spa. Same goes for the suction line for skimmer, in wall suction for a pool cleaner and attached spa suctions (if equipped). You can rent a line blower from a renta all or your local pool shop. Blow out the lines, until you only see a tiny dribble at the pool, both suction and return. Charge the line with plumber's antifreeze (not automotive) and blow that through to the pool, for all lines. When you see the dye colour of the antifreeze at the pool, it means that the antifreeze protection is sufficient. Plug with your telflon taped winter plugs, all lines ending at the pool. Put something squishable (empty chemical containers or an old partially filled inner tube) into the skimmer to protect it from freeze damage. Remove the pressure guages from the filter and put them in the pump basket with your equipment plugs.
There are 3 basic types of pool heater, electric, gas and solar. You don't mention which you have, so I'll assume if you do have one, it's gas. Open the drain cocks on both sides of the heater header (you blew out all the water , when doing the lines, should just be a little anti freeze that dribbles out) and disconnect the pressure switch from it's compression fitting. No need to store it, just let it hang from it's electrical wires. Turn off both the gas valve on the interior and the gas feed line going to the heater. Toss a couple of moth balls inside the heater, to deter mice and spiders from nesting and clogging gas orifices as well as pulling out insulation.You're done here. Any pipes you disconnected during the blow out process should be hooked back up. If the equipment is located in a sheltered environment, nothing else need be done. If out of doors, some form of lean to would be a good idea. Don't wrap up the equipment in plastic. There's no cross flow ventilation and it willl expidite corrosion. Just something over head works. Sweep out leaves from the area around the pump motor as well. They promote corrosion. Remove ladders and diving board. Wrap the diving board jig bolts with duct tape or use the proper caps (stops toes from getting stubbed and corrosion on the bolts)
Cover time. If your pool cover has a different colour on each side, pick your favourite. You'll be looking at it for a few months and it doesn't matter which side of a polytarp faces down. Secure your cover with water bags, ropes and stakes, or whaterver method you choose.
If this is a vinyl pool, I strongly advise you NOT to use brick or block. If one goes in, you'll have a hole to deal with and currently the normal rate to chop a hole in ice, get the cover off far enough for a diver in a drysuit is about 300 canadian dollars to fix that little hole, mid winter. A water bag is far cheaper than a brick or block if this happens. I get called in to do far too many of these repairs. Not that I mind, I happen to like ice diving.
If you own a leaf net, now is the time to put it on. Stretch it out tight over the pool and under the water bags or stake and tie it in place. If that cover is loose and drops down into the pool, it's not doing the job of letting the leafs blow away. They're sunk and a mess you have to deal with in spring.
A proper fitting pool cover should have at least 1 1/2 feet fo cover on the deck on each side, go straight down the wall to the water and make a right angle turn at water's surface, floating on it. Loose is fine, tight isn't. If you have a tight cover, one solution is to fill the pool up a bit (lines are plugged so no water will flow back down them). This will give the cover some more slack. If that cover is too tight, I can guarantee that it won't stay on.
Add a little water from your tap to the top of the cover now. It'll help stabilize it in a high wind situation, until it fills naturally with precipitation.
If you own a security cover instead of a poly tarp, there's no set rule on how you go about putting the cover on, other than to begin at the stairs. It's easiest to both find the stair flap on the cover and to figure out which strap goes on which peg there. Anywhere else and you could be at it for awhile switching straps and pegs to get it right.
If the water was balanced, all equipment winterized and lines blown and the cover stays on, you should have a pool that looks and behaves exactly as it did when you closed it, upon pool opening in the spring. That's about it. I can't be more specific, without a bit more info on the pool, they are all done slightly differently and differ in equipment, but this will get you started and contains all the important bits. Go have a beer or 10. You've been at it for at least 3 hours from start to finnish. :)

Answer 2

This is how I do mine , 24' round, above ground, steelsided.
Take everthing out of the pool , stairs, "thermometer", toys,
I backwash the filter ,disconect the hose from the inlet end of the pump, disconect the hose from the outlet of filter and let them hang from the pool, take the top off the filter ,drain the pump . Pump and filter top stay together by their conecting hose and go in the basement , syphon the pool down 5" below the jet so during the cold months the jet is not damaged by the ice and expansion.If it rains a lot before freeze up I drain again to maintain the 5" level . Drain the filter from the drain plug at the bottom ,leave the plug out a couple of days , replug and add a gallon of non toxic antifreeze , (plumbing antifreeze used for cottages, trailers, pools), then cover the top of the filter with heavy plastic and put the clamp back on to hold it , I use some of the Non toxic antifreeze and fill a few bleach or chlorine type jugs 3/4's full with a mix of water and antifreeze half and half ,put the lids back on and throw them in the pool .They will squish instead of the pool sides pushing out, Then I go in the house get the woodstove going put my feet up and wait for spring !! Good luck!

Answer 3

Empty and disconnect the pump. Drain about a foot of water. Place a pool pillow or a large inner tube in the center of the pool. Cover with an appropriate tarp and weigh it down around the edges. No need to place any chemicals in the water; when the pool is re-opened is the time for shock treatment.

Answer 4

http://royalswimmingpools.com/winter.htm

Answer 5

Fill it with antifreeze?

Answer 6

Let it freeze and go skating.