How to Make a Goldfish Live for Decades
Believe it or not, a goldfish should live for 10 to 25 years or longer if it's given the proper care. The Guinness Book of World Records cites a goldfish named Tish that lived 43 years after being won at a fair in England in 1956! Here's how to help your scaly companion survive into the "golden years."
Steps
Purchase the largest possible tank for your goldfish. While using a 2.5 gallon tank instead of a small bowl will increase longevity, albeit not by much, 10 gallons per fish or more is necessary. Choose a tank with a large surface area to increase the amount of oxygen in contact with the surface of the water (i.e. wider is better than taller).
Set up the tank prior to the purchase of fish. Getting it ready may take two or more weeks. It is necessary to build up enough good bacteria to break down the fish's wastes. To do this, do the "Fishless Cycle" (see external links below). Once completed, your Goldfish aquarium will have more than enough bacteria to break down the wastes your fish will produce. Failure to cycle a tank will result in ammonia poisoning.
Provide mental and physical stimulation for the fish. Decorate the tank with gravel, bridges, plants, etc. Gravel provides a place for good bacteria to grow, and goldfish like to hide and swim through little buildings and bridges. Rearrange the bridges and plants on a monthly basis to offer the goldfish "new" areas to explore.
Add a filter. Either a large internal or an external is best, as goldfish are very messy creatures. Without a filter, smaller tanks will foul and become deadly in just a day or two. Keep in mind that having a filter doesn't mean you can avoid cleaning the tank. Even with a filter, change 20% to 50% of the water about once every week.
Add some equipment to increase oxygen diffusion into the water. A powerhead is best, although some fancies will not like the current. If this is the case, a large air pump and air stone is sufficient.
Clean the tank regularly. This is essential. How often you do this will depend on the size of your tank, the number of fish, and the effectiveness of the filter.
When you add/change water, use a dechlorinator that also removes chloramine and heavy metals as per instructions.
Frequently test for ammonia and nitrite. A pH test is also handy to ensure your goldfish's water is not too alkaline or acidic. This can be purchased at any pet store. Do not modify the fish's water, however, unless it is significantly different from neutral. Goldfish can tolerate a wide pH range, and pH modifying chemicals are not a lasting solution without more consistent monitoring than most people will do. A range of pH 6.5-8.25 is fine. Many municipal water supplies buffer their water up to around 7.5, and goldfish will live very happily in this range.
Do not remove the goldfish during a water change. Using a gravel vacuum to suck debris out of the gravel can be done with the fish in the tank. Frequent partial water changes are better than full (and stressful) water changes.
If you do need to catch your fish, consider using a plastic container rather than a net, as the fish can injure its fins and scales while thrashing around. This also increases stress! If a net is the only option, soak it prior to use. Dry nets are much more likely to cause injury than wet ones.
Allow the water temperature to change as the seasons change. While goldfish don't like temperatures over 75°F (24°C), they do seem to like seasonal variations where the temperature falls to the high 50s or 60s (15-20°c) in the winter. Fancier goldfish are an exception and cannot easily tolerate temperatures below about 60°F (16°c). Be aware that goldfish will not eat below 50-55°F (10-14°c).
Feed the goldfish once or twice daily with food specifically designed for goldfish. If you choose to feed them twice, then reduce the size of the meals. Give them only as much as they can eat in a few minutes, and clean any leftovers immediately.
Tips
Be sure to regularly clean leftover food and waste from the gravel.
If the air pump is too strong for the size of the tank, you may place a clip or commercially available valve on the tubing and reduce the amount of bubbles.
Never use a tank under ten gallons unless it is temporary (ie, less than a week). Anything smaller will stunt the fish leading to many health problems, and can be considered cruel.
Carbon is arguably unnecessary. It will mask a lot of problems, and eventually it will leak all toxins back into the water.
Goldfish can grow to be over 12 inches long if put in tanks or ponds that are large enough!
Test your water for pH, hardness, and alkalinity initially. If your water is soft, adding some oyster shells to a mesh bag is good as it can help raise the hardness and buffer the water. Goldfish like water with a pH of 7 to 8 and moderate hardness.
Goldfish also like aquarium salt. This is different from salt used in oceanic tanks. It is a freshwater salt that releases electrolytes to improve overall health.
Gravel is a necessity in the long run. Though large rocks and colorful stones look pretty alone, gravel allows the growth of beneficial bacteria that reduce the ammonia levels of the tank.
Test the levels of Nitrite and Ammonia regularly. Ammonia and Nitrite are very poisonous and any level over 0 PPM is bad. If the readings are above 0 PPM check more frequently and do more frequent water changes. Nitrate is alright up to levels of about 20 PPM.
There are many different opionions about how to properly take care of a fish. Most have truth to them, but research a little more and talk to your local pet store for more information.
Warnings
Avoid using gravel that is sharp or of such size as the fish can get it stuck in their mouths.
Be careful when adding multiple goldfish to the same tank, as they can spread diseases. When at the pet store, check to make sure the fish looks healthy. If there is an abnormal number of dead fish, then use caution when buying. New fish should be quarantined away from the old fish to reduce the spreading of parasites, bacteria, and/or fungus.
If you are worried about the quality of the tap water in your area, call your local pet store and ask if the water is usable for fish. Your local government should be able to give you a water quality report if you have city water. This report will give you an idea of the local water chemistry.
Be sure there is no soap or detergent residue in the container used for water changes. This is poisonous to fish.
Water heaters are prone to malfunctioning and can stay on even after they are set to turn off, so monitor them with a thermometer. Most modern heaters work well and should not malfunction.
Be careful when transporting your goldfish. Stress can reduce the lifespan of a goldfish.
Get a top or lid for the tank so your goldfish cannot jump out.
Many cities put chloramine in water rather than chlorine. Chloramine does not evaporate and must be removed by adding an additional chemical. Any ammonia remover should do the job.
Temperature fluctuation will stress goldfish - try to keep the temperature as constant as possible.
It is unhealthy to overfeed your fish. Only feed your fish as much as directed.
Things You'll Need
Aquarium
Fish
Gravel or sand
Decor
Complete Water Test Kit
Filter
Air Pump or powerhead
Gravel Vacuum
2006-09-20 16:39:08
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answer #1
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answered by mysticideas 6
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Keeping Goldfish
2016-11-13 22:01:05
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answer #2
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answered by ? 4
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I would have to say that the best way to keep goldfish alive is to test out different living environments. I have had many fish over the years and I feel cleaning the water sometimes can lead to severe stress for the fish. If you are keeping the goldfish in the typical round bowl you may only need to clean a small portion of the water. For some reason goldfish live longer in crummy water, but I can't see that being healthy for the fish. Try having a couple different bowls with a fish in each. Try what you always do in one bowl and the others you should try something different. Also internet research can help a lot.
2006-09-20 16:39:37
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answer #3
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answered by spiralout948 1
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Cheapest solution. Go out and buy a 30 - 55 gallon RubberMaid, or other brand bin ($15). Go out and buy Water conditioner ($5) Go to a garden center that has a pond section. Or other store with a pond section (calling beforehand helps alot), Go and buy lots of water lettuce, water hyacinth, and other floaters ($1 - $2 a piece). Go buy a big air pump with a big airstone ($20) Tie two pieces of wood on either long side of the container. Make sure to tie them to each other. This is to support the weight of the water once filled. Find somehwere in your yard of balcony, fill it with water, add conditioner and put in the goldfish. Once they are in add in the airstone and floaters. The floaters can easily take care of the waste from two small fair goldfish for a while, and the container is large enough for the time being. The airstone will provide oxygen. For right now place them in the largest container you have. If you have an empty rubbermaid or storage container around use it. The bigger the better. Make sure to condition the water first. Add in the goldfish and stir the surface of the water every 10 minutes. They do not have enough oxygen. If you have a fan turn it on high and point it at the top. This will create ripples which will create oxygen in the water. Try and put them in something with a really wide top. Now for basic goldfish care. Goldfish. Despite the many myths around them. Are a longlived large fish. The ones given out at fairs are normally common or comet goldfish. Both of these easily reach 1 - 2 feet in length. And live for an average of 15 - 20 years. They are very dirty fish and require a strong filtration system. For now they are small and they are much easier to care for. But you must prepare for the future. Most people do not see them reach this age or this size because they are so horribly mistreated they die off early. There is also the myth that they reach the size of their container. This is not so. Their body does indeed stop growing. However their organs continue. Eventually killing them in a long slow painful process. For fancy goldfish you need 30 gallons per fish. For comets and commons you need at least 75 gallons per fish. So for those two you will need at minimum either 60 or 150 gallons. A pond is by far easier and cheaper than a tank and can be easily made. There are many types of ponds and it will require some research. I like raised ponds as you can cover the outside with dirt and rocks and turn it into an herb garden or planter. A large pond also takes less space than one would think. My 700 gallon pond is only 8 feet long. And my 200 gallon barely takes up corner. If it freezes where you are make sure to make it deep enough. Also with a pond you can add in a water fall that acts as a filter, and a water lily which in my opinion is a plus. For a tank you will need the same size and space. Plus a filter rated for at least triple your tank size. You will also need to learn the specific diet requirements for goldfish. No flakes, lots of veggies, and a quality pellet or live food. Since I can only cover so much info on here I suggest you do alot of research. For now try to do the best you can. If you get them in a 20+ gallon tank or tub you will have at least 3 months before you have to find another option. My 60 gallon goldfish tank - $400 My 200 gallon pond - $175 Whatever you do get them in a larger container, with floaters. These will help alot. Seriously. They will act as your filter till you get a real one. And make sure you have surface ripples.
2016-03-17 23:27:39
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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Goldfish are pretty easy to care for. I have one that is 7 years old. First two years were in a bowl, then I moved them to a large tank with a filter. You say you keep the temperature, Goldfish are a cold water fish, they survive best in 60-70 degree F water. If you have a tank heater remove it unless the water temperature falls below 58 deg. F. I don't use a heater, don't need it. Change 1/4 of the water weekly, and test for ammonia and nitrates.
2006-09-20 16:40:22
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answer #5
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answered by Star G 4
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There is a thing called the nitrogen cycle that is the problem. In a new tank this cycle is not established so ammonia from fish droppings will build up in the water and suffocate the fish. It takes maybe two or three weeks to get the cycle going; bacteria from the droppings will eventually establish themselves and eat the ammonia, but until that happens you have to use an additive to rid the tank of ammonia. You should get a test kit and check the water every day. Once the nitrogen cycle is established then you are good to go and the fish will not die.
The acidity of the water can be determined with a simple pH test strip but that is not your problem right now.
Ask about how to get the nitrogen cycle working at the pet store and they can give you what you need.
2006-09-20 16:33:49
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answer #6
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answered by Kokopelli 7
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Your tank needs time to develop beneficial bacteria that turns fish waste into harmless nitrates. You are probably feeding too much and the excess waste is poisoning the fish. Next time, When you get the fish don't feed him for two days, then feed him every other day for a week. Then feed him half of what you used to. Switch to bottled spring water and change 25% of it every week while using a gravel washer.
A
2006-09-21 03:04:46
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answer #7
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answered by iceni 7
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You can't lol it's impossible :) Thats the only thing I can think of cause every 1 that I have ever had died within 1 day to 1 week.
actually I have had the lil neon tetras now for a few months and their starting to die too all I can think of is keep the gravle as clean as possible and make sure you have a filtration system hooked it helps them breath.
2006-09-20 16:46:33
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answer #8
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answered by ///\oo/\\\ 4
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Make sure there is a filteration system the water needs to be airated.
2006-09-20 16:38:16
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answer #9
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answered by xdogma 2
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Yep Goldfish are dirty...keep em outa site in a dirty tank they love it...I had one I didnt pay attention to he surived on his own sh*t
2006-09-20 16:30:02
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answer #10
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answered by John C 2
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