I have a new acrylic tub and acrylic shower wall. The tub is somewhat flexible and the new construction lumber has probably not settled into place yet so when filling the tub, a lot of stress is put on the caulking. Acrylic caulk cracks and silicone caulk has pulled away. I've tried caulking this thing 4-5 times now but I'm still having trouble. Is there a better option or technique for a flexible joint? How about that caulking tape stuff?
2006-09-20 16:23:40 · 9 answers · asked by ramiska 2 in Home & Garden ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
There are some nearly correct answers already. You have to remove all old caulk, even if you put it up last week.
You can do that (if it is a caulk and not a dry compound that you have put in) by being very careful and not scratching your tub. A razor blade paint scraper will do it, just do not glitch your tub.
Let all of that dry out. Fill the tub with water all the way up. Then sit on the edge of the tub with your footies in the water and recaulk. Do not use the tub for 72 hours, leaving the water in the tub. After the caulk has had time to cure (supposing you are using a special tub and tile silicone caulk), drain the water and it should stay sealed.
Trust me, it will occur in time again. Houses never stop settling.
2006-09-21 12:13:08 · answer #1 · answered by Polyhistor 7 · 1⤊ 0⤋
The caulking tape is horrible and looks artificial. In the last acrylic tub/shower that I caulked, I removed all of the caulk, stuffed toilet paper in the gaps, resealed with bathroom tub and tile caulk. Using the caulk labeled for bathroom tub and tile is the only caulk to use. Also make sure the surface is completely dry and I do mean dry. Do not try to recaulk until the shower/tub has not been used for several days. Use a blow dryer if necessary to make sure all areas are dry. Last thing...make sure that everything is level.
2006-09-20 16:35:51 · answer #2 · answered by juncogirl3 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Your problem is moisture. In the kitchen the humidity levels change. Low quality caulks will not be able to expand/contract well without cracking. Use a 50 year painters caulk or a product like Big Stretch. Also recognize that when you paint over the caulk, the paint will crack as the caulk expands and contracts because paint is not elastic.
2016-03-17 02:47:01 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Have you tried caulking while the tub is full? It seems that the greatest stress is when the tub is filled up, so consider the silicon caulking but fill your tub so that the gap is the largest while you do the caulking. Hope that works.
2006-09-20 16:35:24 · answer #4 · answered by unstable 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Silicone caulk is specifically designed to have some flex. If you tub is flexing that much, contact whoever installed it, because something is not right. It should not move that much. Any more than 1/16th to 1/8th (that is very high) is way to much movement. You could try applying the caulk with the tub filled (highest amout of pull away).
2006-09-20 16:33:33 · answer #5 · answered by Star G 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
get the powder caulk mix and additive that comes in a milk carton. It makes it harden.
Mix it yourself and apply it with your hand and wipe away with a sponge that is moist not soaky wet.
Then with your wet fingers glide it to make a crease at the croners and make a straight line on your long base and you will have a nice job well doen caulking. Pre-mixes are not worth a hoot.
2006-09-20 17:57:55 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 1⤊ 0⤋
fill the tub up then caulk, but check under the floor if accessible and make sure the floor joists are secure
2006-09-21 02:18:28 · answer #7 · answered by Joe M 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
silicone caulk is best, but make sure the surface is clean and dry. If it is, it shouldn't pull away.
2006-09-20 16:27:15 · answer #8 · answered by jperk1941 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
try liquid nails silicon
2006-09-21 09:22:38 · answer #9 · answered by anthony c 2 · 1⤊ 0⤋