Can you grow a rose bush from a rose hip?

Question

The rose bush that the rose hip is on is a red rose bush and was transplaneted to my yard at the begining of the month. The rose hip is almost ripe.

Answer 1

You can't grow a Bush out of a rose. Try out of a Cactus.

Answer 2

Yes, of course you can, but it won't work well.

As you probably know, most roses you buy at a garden center are not "own root" roses. This means that the rose you see growing out of the ground probably has a different type of rose grafted onto the root. My wife knows the reason this is done, but the short answer is because most roses aren't very hardy. The roots are from very hardy roses called rugosas. Another problems is that you have no real idea of what the rose will look like when it blooms. If the rose was a hybrid tea, then your rose will look nothing like it. So it is a gamble on what you get.

Growing roses from hips is a long, tricky process that results in a weak rose plant, and probably one you wouldn't want to look at very long anyway.

Sorry, by my answer is no.

Answer 3

Rose Bush Seeds

Answer 4

Rose Seed Propagation
By Albert Ford
(adapted from the November – December 1999 MRS Newsletter)
On the threshold of fall, your roses are doing some interesting things. They are in the process of
converting spent flowers into seeds, for one thing. If after the middle of September, you ceased
deadheading, you have increased the probability of the rose bush producing viable seeds from which an
entirely new rose might germinate--if you do a few simple things.
1. Collect Mature Hips : Regardless of time of year, if a rose bloom remains on the bush after the
flower has faded and degeneration of the petals begins to take place, the rose bush will begin to form a seed
pod (rose hip). Sometimes the entire spent flower will turn brown. Such a hip will not produce viable seeds
and should be ignored and pruned away in your late fall pruning. On the other hand, more often than not,
the calyx tube (enlarged part just below the sepals) of the spent flower will begin to swell and gradually
change color from green to red or orange. Some hips remain green and do not change color. After the hip
has changed color, it is mature and can be harvested. I generally wait until after the first heavy frost, at
which time, I pick the green as well as the red and orange hips. The hips from a specific rose bush should
be placed in a container on which the variety’s name is written.
2. Shelling the Hips : Any time after harvesting the hips, they can be opened and the seeds
removed. Opening the hip can be done with a knife. Don’t worry about cutting through a seed, they are
very hard. Drop the seeds into a glass of water to which a teaspoon of Clorox has been added. Those that
drop to the bottom of the glass (sinkers) have a much greater probability of germinating than those that
float on the surface (floaters).
3. Stratification: Subjecting seeds to the cold of refrigeration (35ºF, not freezing) is referred to as
“stratification.” I place my rose seed in separate containers with a little moist peat moss. (I use empty
35mm film canisters). Mark each container with the name of the rose variety that produced the seed. Place
containers in refrigerator for 45 to 60 days.
4. Planting the Seeds : The seeds are planted in a tray (about an inch or more in depth). They are
placed 1/4 inch below the surface of the growing medium, covered and kept moist. I use Pro-Mix as a
growing medium and place the seed trays under grow-lights. The secret is to keep the medium moist, but
not wet. Set timer to have lights on for 16 hours, off for 8.
5. Seedling Treatment: A seedling may appear in as little as two weeks, but it generally takes
longer. The first two leaves that appear are cotyledons; the third leaf to appear is a true rose leaf. After two
or more rose leaves are visible, I carefully transplant the seedling into a three inch plastic pot, keep it under
grow-lights and give it a few drops of a weak solution of Miracle Gro (1/2 teaspoon to a quart of water). A
flower may arrear in as little as three weeks. Keep track of the variety; if it is a good rose, you may want to
give it a name and get it patented. Good luck!
Maryland Rose Society Newsletter
Albert Ford, Editor
http://www.mgs.md.gov/misc/mdrose

Answer 5

Yes.To harvest the seeds from a rose plant, cut the hips from the plant, wash them and cut them in half with a knife. The round to oval , slightly pointed white seeds can be easily removed. There may be 1-50 seeds per hip. Next, wash the seeds in a kitchen strainer. Although rose seeds can be sown as soon as they are harvested, germination is usually more successful if they are placed in the refrigerator in an airtight container between layers of moist sphagnum peat moss for 6-8 weeks before sowing. This process, known as stratification, simulates the cold of a natural winter, priming the seeds to sprout. After the cold treatment, use tweezers to remove the seeds from the peat moss. Before sowing, you may wish to test them for viability, or the ability to germinate. To do this, place them in a container of water. Those that are not viable will float to the top and can be discarded. Seedlings often succumb to a disease known as damping off, caused by one or more fungi that are present in most garden soils. Seedlings that have succumbed to damping off suddenly wilt and fall over. There is no cure for this so, prevention is the only remedy. Use a sterilized, soilless sowing mixture. Sow the seeds in a wide, shallow container filled with about 4" of the medium at a depth of about a 1/4". Rose seeds germinate best under greenhouse conditions. If you do not have a greenhouse, cover the seed flats with clear plastic or glass to keep the medium moist and the humidity high until the seeds germinate. If condensation forms on the plastic or glass, remove it for a few minutes to dry slightly and to prevent disease. Rose seeds germinate beat at temperatures between 50 and 55 deg. F. but will germinate at temps as high as 60 deg. Place the flats in bright light but not full sun for as many hours as possible, or keep them 6-10" below fluorescent lights that are kept on continuously until the seeds germinate. Germination time can take from 3 weeks to 4 months or longer. When you see short stems with 2 seed leaves called cotyledons, remove the plastic or glass and move the containers into as many hours of full sun as you can provide. Or place under fluorescent lights. Check them every day to see if the medium is dry and if they need water. Avoid watering in any way that will dislodge or uproot the seedlings. A very fine mist or spray is ideal. Once your seedlings are growing, ensure steady growth by adding soluble fertilizer such as 20-20-20 or 15-30-15 to the water once a week at 1/4 the recommended strength. When seedlings have produced 3 sets of compound leaves, they're ready to transplant into individual pots. First moisten the medium in the original container then fill 2" peat pots with moistened growing medium and make a hole the depth of the roots at the center of the pot. Gently lift out the tiny plants, disturbing the roots as little as possible. Holding the seedling by the leaves (never by the stem) gently place into new pot and firm the medium around it. Continue to provide light water and fertilizer. When a plant is about 4" tall transfer entire soil ball to a 4" pot and fill the extra space with potting medium. The first flowers will appear by the time the seedling is 4-5" tall, about 6-8 weeks after germination. Don't be disappointed if the flowers aren't very exiting as the do not represent the blooms of a mature plant.

Answer 6

i thought your questions would be more interesting than us poms but the answers talk about sermons just cut it in two stick the seed in some compost you might get 50% if your lucky good day

Answer 7

Why the **** did she write so much?