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7 answers

It could be a 100+ things . ( You have not given us enough info to pin it down )

Get someone to run a Diag on the ECU to see if it is an Engine related fault

Replace the fuel filter regardless as they do clog up after 20->30K miles

2006-09-20 07:09:37 · answer #1 · answered by Perry 4 · 0 0

You do not give the millage so I am assuming around 150,000 miles
It could be the filter if it has not been changed in the last 30,000 miles; the fuel pump nor ably dies and the truck will not start or dies all the time: if you are still using the original pump that just mite be your answer> it could be water in the line, dirt in the tank plugging the pump screen up. there is a sensor on the firer-wall that could be going bad as well. you need to have it checked out: or bad gas can cause this and have you ever had a tune up on the engine. With out knowing this all of us that answer you are shooting in the dark so to speek!

2006-09-20 07:18:04 · answer #2 · answered by zipper 7 · 0 0

HERE'S THE SCOOP
A FUEL FILTER AVERAGES OUT AT ABOUT $11 AND CAN BE CHANGED IN THE DRIVEWAY IN A MATTER OF MINUTES
NEEDS TO BE CHANGED PERIODICALLY ANYWAY SO START THERE

NOW THE FUEL PUMP IS A DIFFERENT ANIMAL ALTOGETHER
THE PUMP IS LOCATED INSIDE THE FUEL TANK ( WHICH IS PROBABLY FULL AS THEY SEEM TO BE WHENEVER YOU NEED THEM TO BE EMPTY)
THE PRICE IS A BIT SCARY AT APPROXIMATLY $330
SOLD IN A COMPLETE MODULE ASSEMBLY WITH SENDING UNIT AND ALL
YOU WILL NEED TO DROP THE TANK TO REMOVE (YUK)
THEN TO GET THE RIGHT ONE U WILL NEED TO KNOW IF IT IS A 2 OR 4 DOOR (EASY)
ALSO THE TANK SIZE (18 GALLON OR NOT)
AND WHETHER IT IS A LOW LUBRICITY FUEL PUMP OR NOT
CALL YOUR DEALER WITH THE VIN NUMBER AND THEY WILL GIVE YOU A FUEL PUMP MODULE CODE OR AT LEAST AN ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT PART NUMBER
DONT FORGET YOU HAVE A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR ALSO AND THE COMPUTER THAT CONTROLS THE WHOLE MESS
READY TO START ?
SOME THINGS ARE BEST LEFT TO THE MECHANICS

2006-09-20 07:17:56 · answer #3 · answered by John K 5 · 0 0

It COULD be fuel related, but you must check to cause first rather than just throwing parts at it.
First step, check for codes. If you don't have a code reader or scanner, you can go to a discount parts house for their help. They will check your codes in hopes that you buy the necessary parts from them.
If you can't get it to them, then you are reduced to doing diagnostics the old fashioned way.
You now need to test for ---
Fuel (it has fuel, or it wouldn't start when cranked)
Air (probably present, but metering could be interrupted-MAF sensor?)
Spark Does the spark continue after the release of the key?
The answer to these questions should direct you to further diagnostics and ultimately resolve your problem.

2006-09-20 07:25:05 · answer #4 · answered by Ironhand 6 · 0 0

try taking the fuel line apart somewhere between the injectors and the filter. then turn the key forward. if it spits out a good stream then it isn't either one... if it doesnt spit out much then take apart the line between the filter and the pump and do the same thing... diagnosis will be evident. In the event that neither are bad then it could possibly be an ignition problem

2006-09-20 07:07:00 · answer #5 · answered by scottishchristiansen 3 · 0 0

A vehicle can not die out when cranking, it has to be running to die out. So I assume it cranks but won't start. Now you need to get is diagnosed by an auto technician instead of guessing.

2006-09-20 07:28:13 · answer #6 · answered by Dave 3 · 0 0

could be your sending unit,electric fuel pump,and a clogged filter.

2006-09-20 07:05:29 · answer #7 · answered by shepardman1 4 · 1 0

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