2006-09-12 04:23:47 · 5 answers · asked by michael g 2 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
they've already been replaced. I need to know if the car should be running or not?
2006-09-12 04:34:03 · update #1
When performing brake work, if your brake system is working well before you change the brake pads (no squishy pedal) and you're careful when you take off the front calipers to keep the bleeder screw at the topmost point of the calipers at all times (turn em upside down and sometimes air will leak past the bleeder screws) you probably won't need to bleed the brakes after you're done. Pop the new caliper and new pads back in place, pump the brake pedal a couple of times to take up the clearance you made when you pushed the caliper piston in far enough to fit the new pads, make sure you have a firm pedal, then take the car off the ramps or jackstands. I've done this many times during my problematic 12" brake rotor swap, with no problems.
On the other hand if you're feeling industrious it never hurts to bleed the brakes. The easy way is to just crack each bleeder screw slightly and let gravity do the work. Fluid, and any air bubbles, will dribble slowly out of the bleeder. It will take 5-10 minutes to bleed each caliper as the fluid flow is quite slow. Make sure to remove the master cylinder reservoir cover plate, and keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up as the fluid bubbles slowly out of the bleeder screws, if you let the master cylinder reservoir get dry you'll suck air into the system from the top and then you have to bench bleed the master cylinder, which is a pain and requires disconnecting the brake lines to the master cylinder.
If you have a helper, the usual "pump brake pedal slowly three times, hold brake pedal to floor, crack bleeder screw, let bubbles and fluid spurt out, close bleeder screw, let brake pedal up, repeat until no more air, repeat at each bleeder screw" procedure works very well.
Whatever method you use, it's a good idea to slip a length of rubber vacuum tubing over the head of the bleeder screw, and immerse the free end in a small mason jar or similar container with an inch of brake fluid in the bottom. This will reduce the chances of sucking air back into the system, and also minimize brake fluid spillage on the ground. A very small amount of brake fluid can contaminate a very large amount of ground water, so it pays to be careful here.
2006-09-12 04:32:04 · answer #1 · answered by skyeblue 5 · 1⤊ 0⤋
Make sure that you start at the farthest point from the master cylinder i.e. RR, LR, RF, LF. This will ensure you don't miss any air in the lines.
2006-09-12 12:42:40 · answer #2 · answered by mtbman1016 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
research the info thru your Chiltons manual
at that age of car .. expect some things to break, go wrong
or better yet, take to a brakes repair place
2006-09-12 11:29:56 · answer #3 · answered by Mopar Muscle Gal 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
it's hard to do. take it to a mechanic and let them do it for you, it's not worth the stress
2006-09-12 11:29:37 · answer #4 · answered by cramner25 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
huh
2006-09-12 11:29:41 · answer #5 · answered by jellybeans 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋