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A few teaspoons of water comes through every time it is flushed. I don't want to remove the lav if I don't absolutely have to. Is there some sort of sleeve or sealing compound that will do the trick?

2006-09-09 22:15:23 · 13 answers · asked by Anonymous in Home & Garden Maintenance & Repairs

13 answers

No real shortcut.

If it is leaking from an iron-to-iron joint, you better see how far gone the pipe are already. Having had cast iron septic lines corrode through before, I can tell you it is better to fix it before it fails.

If your leak is from the collar on which the WC sits, you will have to take it off and replace it. If corrosion isn't a problem you'll need a new fitting for the type of WC you have, PTFE pipe tape, and a new wax ring.

Good luck...converting to PVC may be the best thing for you to do.

2006-09-09 22:24:35 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 1 0

Don't try the quick and easy bodge! Dismantle the lav from the pipe and use a flexible rubber-like joint to mate the pipe to the lav. There are a few brands out there - just ask at the local plumbers merchants. If you try to just make-do with a sealing compound on the outside it will not hold for long and you will then have to waste more time in the future doing the job properly with the added task of cleaning off all the sealant.
Saing that - The best bodge I have seen is duct tape wrapped around the joint (ha ha)!

2006-09-09 22:29:58 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Soil Pipe Sealant

2016-10-13 22:35:26 · answer #3 · answered by bastick 4 · 0 0

You can reseal it with a soft plastic sleeve but you will have to remove the pan first.

First Aid.
Not as horrible as it sounds and very easy.
Visit you local Car Parts Shop and by a plastic hand pump for about £1.50.
Visit a Plumbing Shop and buy a bag of quick drying waterproof cement made for this task.
Flush the toilet twice and pump out the remaining water with the hand pump taking care to cover the seat area with a large damp cloth. Stops any smells.
With the pan dry pick out any loose stuff that may be there or if its covered with plastic soak up the remain moisture with a soft dry cloth.
Cut a piece of cloth that will go round the area twice and two bits of string long enough to tie the cloth with.
Make up the cement in a bowl using only enough water to make it like Plasticine.
Mould it with your hand like a large collar around the area and one inch wider than necessary.
Dampen the cloth and bandage it up and tie each string near the edges.
After one hour and remove the cloth.
Wait on day and rub gently with fine sandpaper.
Paint to blend with your toilet.
You can use the toilet after two hours but flush first with the cloth still covering the hole to fill up the U bend.

Good luck and it's easy.

2006-09-09 22:44:57 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

The correct way to transist from existing cast iron female tapping to new pvc drain line is with a male pvc adapter. This fitting screws into cast iron fitting and has a female hub on the other end for pvc. Galvanized drain lines usually develop leaks at male threads. When a pipe is threaded the wall thickness is diminished at the thread and thinner. It is always best to eliminate all the galvanized drain line back to the larger cast iron drain if possible. This will eliminate any future galvanized drain problems.

2016-03-27 05:06:23 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Any good pipe jointing compound from your local plumber's/builder's merchant should do the trick. Worth doing a good clean-up around the area, scrape out any old sealant and deposits etc, and spend a bit of time really packing in the new sealant, use any movement there is between the WC and the pipe to help get it well in.

2006-09-09 22:33:46 · answer #6 · answered by Sangmo 5 · 0 0

Clean the joint of course. dry it using maybe a hair dryer.
seal it using silicone sealer available from any diy store.
It would seem to me reading between the lines that maybe the toilet bowl maybe lose on the floor ie. does it rock about, any movement would of course loosen the seal. Make sure it is screwed down securely.
I have found in the past that even a rubber seal sometimes lets by

2006-09-09 22:28:58 · answer #7 · answered by Spanner 6 · 0 0

<>Since this is a pressured water site, I would only attempt an external seal as a temporary measure. The cast iron will continue to break down and you might end up with a really big flood one day. Plan to replace the plumbing, preferably with PVC if it's allowed where you are.

2006-09-09 22:27:08 · answer #8 · answered by druid 7 · 0 0

Yes, there is a product called milliput or milliputty that will do the trick, it can be applied to most surfaces wet or dry. You will find it in any plumbers merchants maybe even B&Q. Good luck.

2006-09-09 22:19:51 · answer #9 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

1

2017-03-02 00:55:51 · answer #10 · answered by ? 3 · 0 0

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