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I'm tiling an area, then installing a shower to go with an existing bathtub. Any way to avoid ripping out the slats and plaster?

2006-09-08 06:26:57 · 7 answers · asked by Anonymous in Home & Garden Do It Yourself (DIY)

7 answers

Kieth K has the correct answer. Durorock is a cementitious board specifically designed for hard surface application, such as ceramic tile. Green board is only resistant to water, and not a good base for ceramic.
And yes, you do need to take the time and remove the old lathe and plaster.
Good luck!

2006-09-08 13:27:10 · answer #1 · answered by duke1414 3 · 0 1

You can leave the old stuff up, but I'd run furring strips first, and if you're going to tile around the shower area, I'd use the cement board rather than the green board, where as the green board doesn't hold up over time if you should get water behind the tile.

Also, you might want to check that the studs are on 16" centers because I know in some of the old houses the studs are on 18" centers.................what this means is you might want to run the furring strips perpendicular to the studs so everything lines up.

Hope this helps.

2006-09-08 14:09:47 · answer #2 · answered by John4no17 3 · 0 0

Disagree on going over plaster and lathe, especially if you want it to last and don't want to have to re-do again.....All professionals remove old plaster and lathe any chance they get, since bonding surface should be direct to studs, not over old covering. You should do the same..If its a small section you can cut through it with a masonry blade on a circular saw. Other wise its a small sledge and crowbar.

If its either the tub surround or the floor, you should use durock instead of green board as well, since greenboard is only moisture resistant.

2006-09-08 06:44:34 · answer #3 · answered by keith k 1 · 1 1

Yes green board is a must when working around moisture.You just remove loose plaster.Hang the drywall as normal it will cover the old busted plaster.Just be sure to hit the studs.Be sure all you seams are even so you don't run into level problems if tiles cross over the seams..

2006-09-08 13:27:41 · answer #4 · answered by Dave 3 · 0 0

The green board is your barrier - as long as the lath and plaster wall is in good shape the green board just needs to be nailed to a surface.

2006-09-08 06:34:50 · answer #5 · answered by justwondering 6 · 0 0

If you want a good job that will last, you need to remove the plaster and lathe before you install the green board. There isn't an acceptable way around it.

2006-09-08 08:54:45 · answer #6 · answered by Jeffrey S 6 · 0 1

If the wall is solid and straight, laminate 1x4's framing flat secu
red to wall prior to green board installation! I used deck screws since they are moisture resistant and have very little chance to work their way outward as nails could, thus, damaging the tile or any wall cover surface.

2006-09-08 06:52:03 · answer #7 · answered by THOMAS E L 1 · 0 0

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