I REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR AND NOW HAVE MANY ELECTRICAL ITEMS NOT WORKING(HEAD LAMPS,HORN, BREAKLIGHTS,INTERIOR ETC)NONE OF THE FUSES ARE OUT THOUGH?!?!
2006-09-07 16:07:05 · 5 answers · asked by BRIAN F 1 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
2 me it sounds like U smoked the fuseable link @ the Starter - that's where all of your power comes from that U are describing !
2006-09-07 17:08:53 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Need more information.
All those things are out, but you mean the vehicle otherwise works, that isnt likely.
Because that doesnt make sense, it sounds like you blew the fuse to the charging system when you changed the alternator.
This is located in the fuse box under the dash with the rest of the fuses.
Check it again. Use a volt meter and place it across each fuse.
Each fuse acts like a wire, so there should not be any voltage across any fuse. If you see 12V across any fuse, it is open.
A good vehicle battery has enough charge to operate for a few hours before it doesnt have enough charge to operate the computer/injectors/fuel pump etc.
A modern vehicle computer, uses buckboost regulator IC, to keep the computer operating, even if the battery is low.
Buy you will begin to loose other systems, like windows, which require full voltage to operate, and headlights will be dim, you might not see them on the daylight etc.
I predict you have 10 more minutes of run time, then you need to find someone with a battery charger/jumper/starter.
Put it on trickle charge at first, then after a bit, you can move it to a faster charge rate, but do not put it into jump/start mode, for any extended time, as that will damage the battery.
If you want to start it, that is ok, but be brief in the Start mode.
Always connect the red to battery plus first, then connect the minus black lead to the chassis metal away from the battery.
This prevents creating a spark near the battery which will be producing explosive Hydrogen gas. Always disconnect the negative terminal first, so the spark if any, is away from the battery. If you are using a charger, be sure it is unplugged and in the off position before connecting, then you can safely click the on switch at a distance. Batteries can explode.
Also, measure the battery voltage if you have a meter. When the vehicle is off, it should read 12.0V give or take a bit.
When the vehicle is running, it should be 13.8V. If you dont see 14V when the vehicle is running, the charging system is not working. Turn on the head lights ( you say dont work), and the voltage should remain the same for both measurements.
May the force be with you.
2006-09-07 16:24:43 · answer #2 · answered by Austin Semiconductor 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Sounds like you have a bad relay.If you are sure you have checked the fuses sometimes you have some fused in the dash and some under the hood.The best way is get a 12 volt test light and trace the circuits until the voltage stops or do it it in reverse order. I would start at the relays check each side of the contacts and go from there. Good luck.I'm not familiar with your vehicle but generally this is the way to do it.
2006-09-07 16:15:29 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Check to see if you have voltage to the fuse block itself. If not, look for fuse link in the wire to the fuse block. Check the fuse link for voltage.
2006-09-07 16:25:11 · answer #4 · answered by troylfry 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
yOU DIDN'T INDICATE THE YEAR MODEL. bASICALY THEY ARE SIMILAR TO THE p/u.
cHECK THE FUSIBLE LINKS THEY MAY BE AT THE ALT. ,THE STARTER Bat. CABLE OR AT THE BATTERY ON THE POS. TERMINAL . the latter ones also have a terminal block usually on the firewall that the Bat. terminal from the alt. goes to.(I'm calling 75 and newer as later)
lightly pull on each of the wires ,if one stretches then replace it.
2006-09-07 16:20:41 · answer #5 · answered by Robert F 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋