You really need to ensure you're bleeding them properly. A good general rule of thumb is that you have to bleed all wheels, starting at the wheel furthest from your master cylinder where you add fluid. In most cars, that would be your right(passenger) rear wheel. Once all air is bled from each wheel, check master cylinder fluid level, and bleed the next furthest wheel. Bleed, rr, lr,rf, then lf, checking fluid between each. This is a TWO person job. You can't do this on your own without a power bleeder setup. Someone needs to pump the brake pedal, and hold it while another person loosens the bleeder on each wheel(one at a time) until the pedal goes to the floor. Then pump again and repeat until pedal is firm. Repeat this for all wheels.
Before you start, make sure you have no fluid leaking anywhere else(like from the inside of your wheel from drum brake indicating a blown wheel cylinder). Look for a trickle of wet coming from under the master cylinder, running down the brake booster. This can be a perfect sign that the master cylinder itself is bad, and is drawing in air, leaking fluid. If all else fails, take it to a professional. Good luck!
2006-09-06 15:21:55
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answer #1
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answered by detecting_it 3
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If the automobile has been sitting for some days rather interior the wintry climate months the brakes disks do oxidise or rust. once you tension after this era the disks will make a mushy noise because of the fact the pads relax very gently on the disk. How ever reckoning at this style of wheels you have you are able to visually see for your self. If the pads are low it might reason a similar undertaking yet you may sense the grinding for the duration of the brake pedal once you maintain on with the brakes. maximum places do a loose brake inspection yet you would be extra effective off with some one you believe to benefit them out as allot of garages do artwork the place it is not mandatory.
2016-12-12 03:56:00
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answer #2
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answered by ? 4
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Sounds like a bad master cylinder. You're going to have to remove both rear drums and visually check both brake cylinders and BOTH front calipers for leaks. If they look okay, then get under the car and look for loose fittings and damaged tubing. If you performed your replacement correctly, then a single bleeding should have been enough. If you used a rebuilt caliper, it may be faulty.
2006-09-06 15:27:20
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answer #3
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answered by elge13 3
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Sounds like a bad master cylinder to me! Are you losing fluid anywhere? Usually if you bleed each wheel about 3-4 times it takes care of all the air in the line. Good Luck!
2006-09-10 12:50:45
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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Are you starting at the brake line furthest from the master cylinder? After that your have to bleed each on in turn. Also the stoping power is combined front and rear brakes.
2006-09-06 15:15:30
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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Don't you mean "bleed" your brakes? Take pride in your typing. I have had my car 14 years, and the brakes were bled for the first time last year.
2006-09-06 15:16:53
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answer #6
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answered by Anonymous
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I've had to bleed my 1986 Jaguar XJS rear brakes with 5 quarts of fluid before I was happy.
2006-09-06 15:12:05
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answer #7
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answered by Anonymous
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Start on the side farthest from the master cylinder, and quit when air quits coming out the bleeder. Then go to the near side and repeat.
2006-09-06 15:13:02
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answer #8
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answered by eferrell01 7
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