Can I use a piece of rubber hose and clamps? Will that hold? Any other ideas?
2006-09-06 13:42:11 · 13 answers · asked by ? 6 in Home & Garden ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
All of the ideas above are right on the mark.
Soldering for plumbing requires:
- tightly aligned parts -- no out-of-round pipes or fittings, and burrs should be removed. I use a pipe cut-off tool rather than a saw to cut pipe.
- very clean surfaces (inside the coupling/fitting and outside the pipe)
- flux to remove any residual tarnish (oxide) and to allow the solder to flow
- plenty of heat (including no water anywhere near the joint, which will keep it cool because you end up boiling water. The bread idea works.)
One thing you should check is that you are using the right gas torch to match your solder type. If you use eutectic tin-lead solder (63:37 ratio), then you can use an ordinary propane gas torch. (This solder alloy is no longer permited for drinking water plumbing, though.)
If you are using a lead-free solder, you should switch to a MAPP gas torch, which will provide a hotter flame.
If by chance you are using a 2% silver-bearing solder, then a MAPP torch is mandatory because the solder melting point is much higher than lead-free. The solder is also very strong.
Apply a bit of flux to the cold parts before heating, then heat all the fittings and pipe uniformly to melt the flux. Remove the flame then apply more flux till it flows well around the solder joint. Apply the flame again and test the temperature by touching your solder to the opposite side of the flame. If it flows, then finish applying solder around the joint and keep the flame 180 degrees on the opposite side -- the molten solder will flow to the hotter side.
2006-09-06 17:33:05 · answer #1 · answered by Tom-SJ 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Sounds like your fighting water in the pipe. If you have even a small dribble or the steam from the boiled water can't escape, you'll be done in. Bread in the pipe works best. DO NOT use those little gel tablets some hardware stores sell to stop the water. They won't disolve completely for a long time and will really screw up some other part of your system. Don't keep driving that solder into the joint, this can cause ribbons and beads of solder to run through the rest of your piping and wreak havoc on your faucets.
Denver Master Plumber
2006-09-06 17:18:40 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
The above are all good suggestions.
The only thing I can think of to add is to make absolutely sure the pipe is not only dry when you start, but that there is no chance of water leaking to the solder location while you're doing the repair. If it leaks a smidge, there's a chance that it's cooling a small section that may prevent the melted solder from getting all the way around.
2006-09-06 14:20:42 · answer #3 · answered by Trid 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Sounds like you have water in the lines while your soldering .. If the pipe is spitting / bubble @ the joint you need to drain the system before soldering . If it is a place that's has access to it you can solder union in . DO NOT USE IF ITS IN THE GROUND OR BEHIND A WALL . IF the water wont stop try shoving bread in the pipe . Anyway all the above post are also great ideas good luck
2006-09-06 15:00:40 · answer #4 · answered by Chris N 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
They're telling you correctly. It's probably best to look at a plumbing book but basically, be certain both male/female of joint is cleaned thoroughly, brush flux on both, assemble, "pre-heat" joint for a few seconds and touch the solder to the side opposite the flame tip. You'll see the solder zip around to the flame and it essentially is done. To look nice, you should wipe the joint (gently) with a damp rag. If you do all this correctly, it's very rare for a copper joint to leak when finished.
2006-09-06 13:58:57 · answer #5 · answered by mike d 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
When you clean the copper pipe, DO NOT TOUCH THE CLEANED PART WITH YOUR FINGERS. Fingers deposit oil on the pipe which will interfere with solder. Flux it well then solder. I would not recommend using a rubber hose and hose clamps for a permanent solution.
2006-09-07 04:56:11 · answer #6 · answered by big_mustache 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Properly clean with the plumbers abrasive paper. Also clean inside the joints. Use flux. Heat to temp and apply the solder from the opposite side that you are heating and let the heat from the joint pull the solder into the gaps. Should work.
If it doesn't they do make PVC adapters that will fit copper. There sold in the hardware store.
2006-09-06 13:53:55 · answer #7 · answered by audioworm31 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
sounds to me you are you are heating the pipe not the coupling a major thing when soldering is clean pipe and fitting with sand paper use pleanty of flux heat the center of the coupling on the bottom side hold your solder on the top of the coupling you should see the solder suck in the coupling if it rolls off the the pipe you do not have it clean enough .. if you are having a problem with water put bread in the pipe
2006-09-06 16:39:05 · answer #8 · answered by teenagersdad 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
It is sometimes difficult to make sure that all the water is out of the lines. After you prepare the male ends of the pipes, and the female ends of the fittings,push ordinary bread down into the ends of the existing pipes, about 2". Then solder immediately. The dry bread will soak up any water, and will dissolve and be flushed out when the water is turned on.
2006-09-06 16:07:12 · answer #9 · answered by NeWoj 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
As everybody says, cleanliness is next to godliness....
and, ensure the pipe is dry.
BUT, nobody mentions that you can easily 'burn' your solder with too much heat. Had probs myself until this was pointed out to me.
Just get the solder to flow smooth around the pipe...and off with the heat...end.
2006-09-07 00:54:28 · answer #10 · answered by johncob 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋