If the primer is set up then get to painting and quit messin on the net.
2006-09-04 08:18:38
·
answer #1
·
answered by teddybar67 4
·
0⤊
0⤋
Make sure your working area is clean and free from dust which may settle on your fresh clean paint job.
Its very easy to do a great job with cellulose paint.
get a piece of square board to set up your gun, when spraying you want the spray to look like a fan, spray the board to get the feel of your gun and adjust it to suit your speed (hand movement)
Start from one side move across the work piece and when you get to the other side let go of the trigger. As you move back across the work piece depress the trigger and move back to where you started. Don't go to fast or to slow that you get drips.
If you do get a run LEAVE IT until it dries then rub it flat with 1200 wet and dry then repaint. Build up your color be patient. Gloss coat for metallic is easy. When work piece is totally dry. Use the board again because clear coat comes out quicker. Mix clear coat and paint 50/50 with thinners and only use new thinners not old. Spray a light clear coat then leave for 10 minutes, spray a gloss coat again if it runs LEAVE IT to dry the rub flat later. Do one more gloss coat and let it dry. Finally rub the whole surface with wet and dry 1500 with soapy water until it looks flat when dried with some kitchen roll. now polish with cutting wax then polish with Auto Glym. you will see your face in it. Good luck sorry for the lengthy reply.
2006-09-04 15:27:44
·
answer #2
·
answered by young man 1
·
0⤊
0⤋
Here's the simple way to prep and paint. Step by step.
Wet the floor around the target with water hose, keeps the dust down. Drape a chain across the floor, attach to the work stand, this will magnetize and attract the over spray to the chain.
1.Prime w/wet/dry primer, wet sand w/400 grit wet/dry paper.
2.Wipe off with tack cloth & alcohol, in one direction.
3.Use PPG Base Coat/Clear Coat paint.
4.Use a VLP Drop feed spray gun, they spray the best.
5.Mix paint as directed, or 1 part paint to 2 parts thinner.
6.Spray first coat 12'-15" from target, then set a timer for 15 mins.
7.Spray Second coat same way. Set timer 15-20 mins.
8 Spray 3rd and final coat. Wait 2-3 hrs.
9 Mix Clear Coat 1 part paint to 2 parts clear.
10. Spray first coat, set timer, 15 mins.
11.Spray second coat, wait 20 mins.
12.Add 1 oz. more thinner, to the gun, sturr. Then spray the final coat.
13. Let dry for 8 hrs or more, remove tape, check to see if dry.
With this simple process you don't need to wet sand with 800 or 2500 grit paper. If you have a $25000.00 Paint booth then I could see using this technique.
2006-09-04 15:47:04
·
answer #3
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
Hi , you will need to use an etch primer for the plastics before applying the celly primer, wet flat this primer with 1200 grit wet & dry ,you will need to mix your paint with celly thinners to a 50/50 ratio thin even coats roughly 5 min`s beetween coats for celly as it dries really fast it is quite possible this paint will dry very dull but don`t worry , when the paint has cured after about 8 hours , lightly wet flat the paint with 1200 wet & dry with soapy water then buff the paint to a high gloss finish with a good quality buffing paste i use farecla g3 , use this same method on the metal frame also but it is always best to use 2pac paints as they are more hard wearing than celly . but remember to only use celly primer/thinners/ect as if you use any other product there is a good chance you will get the paint re-acting . i have been a panel beater / spray painter for over 20 years , regards , andy
2006-09-04 15:25:32
·
answer #4
·
answered by charlotterobo 4
·
0⤊
0⤋
i take it your using air drying paint the first coat of paint should be a 60% paint 40 %thinners the second should be 50% paint and thinners and the final coat will be 75%thinners 25 %paint this will give you a high shine dont rush just give each coat of paint time to dry and once dry sand over with a very fine wet and dry paper this will sratch the paint giving the next coat something to adhere to i was a paint sprayer for 10 years but i worked on cars hope this helps good luck
2006-09-04 15:22:16
·
answer #5
·
answered by bojomarriott 4
·
0⤊
0⤋
I used to be a sray painter in the days when it was still done properly with cellulose paint, and if you don´t get the right condition and paint viscosity you´re heading for a disaster.
Too warm and you get orange peel effect, too cold and you get blooming, and it´s not like todays synthetic rubish which is easy to cover, it has to be worked afterward, but the effect is stunning a deep shine and the paint looks like it is twelve inches deep on the panel. Unless you´ve used cellulose before I would really reccommend going to a professional. Make sure he´s over fifty so he´ll have worked with it before.
2006-09-04 15:19:06
·
answer #6
·
answered by Peter R 2
·
0⤊
0⤋
Cellulose is NOT a good place to go if you have never spray painted before. Most modern spray shops either can't do it or will do a bad job. Find a good (ie "old") spray painter, and get him/her to do it for you.
2006-09-08 02:36:04
·
answer #7
·
answered by Lick_My_Toad 5
·
0⤊
0⤋
Get them powder coated instead.
2006-09-05 07:08:17
·
answer #8
·
answered by ? 6
·
0⤊
0⤋
take it slow let it set between LITE coats
2006-09-04 20:15:53
·
answer #9
·
answered by bill j 4
·
0⤊
0⤋
If you need to ask, I shouldn't try. Get someone experienced to do it.
2006-09-04 18:32:56
·
answer #10
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
2⤋