No, you basically have to wrench up the old flooring and then sand the adhesive away, which you would want to do anyway if you were refinishing the hardwood floor.
Be careful -- I had some and did that. However, unbeknownst to me, I was wrenching up asbestos tiles, which is not a cool thing for the lung and folks who want to avoid cancer. Just get someone to OK the tiles (a contractor can tell you easily enough) and avoid this job if they are asbestos. It's legal to do it on your own (here in the states), no special permits etc., but it's not exactly good for you.
2006-09-01 01:42:41
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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What an exciting project. With any luck the floor is still in great shape underneath the linoleum. The last time I tackled this kind of project I had the linoleum scraped off the floor with a flat shovel. We did it carefully so as not to dig into the wood portion of the floor. Once the majority of the linoleum was gone we hand scraped the remainer. Second the glue was removed with liquid paint stripper and many rags. Make sure to have much ventilation and wear an Nisoha approved mask for the type of liquid stripper. I used an Organic Vapor Mask. Then, in preparation we took a drum sander with 36 grit paper, then 60 grit, then 100 grit and finally 120 grit. The final stage of prepartion is the square buff sander. It is a viberating square sander. This stage buffs out the floor. Neccessary step that any professional floor finisher will use.
Remove all dust witha vaccuum cleaner, then go over the floor with many tack clothes. I open the tack clothes up and put them on to a broom end and rub the floor down.
Coating: First apply one coat of floor grade polyureathane, then sand with 220 grit paper on a sanding pole.
Apply the second coat of poly ureathane, and sand again but this time with a square buff sander.
and then apply the final coat.
Notes: use a lambs wool applicator
apply even amounts of product. do not skimp in other words apply good coating with each application.
2006-09-01 10:44:53
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answer #2
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answered by Batchlor of the Arts 2
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Are you sure it's "Hardwood" under the linoleum? In older homes with hardwood floors many times the kitchens had linoleum over a cheaper T&G floor like Fir, or Yellow Pine. What ever you do to remove the linoleum, the subfloor will have to be sanded down with a real floor "Drum Type" Sander. If you are going to install vinyl flooring, you will need to install an underlayment of Laun plywood. If you think you are going to refinish the wood floor, you'll have to sand the floor down anyway. Just use some #60 grit sand paper to start. Be careful Floor sanding is very tricky.
2006-09-01 10:34:09
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answer #3
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answered by uncle bob 4
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Well, for the linoleum you can try a heat gun.
But, be well aware, that it may contains some asbestos, and I would wear a respirator if you have black mastic underneath it.
Use the heat gun to soften the glue up, and pull the linoleum up gently. You should be able to get it all up, rather easily.
Now, cleaning up the glue is going to be a chore. A chemical solvent of some sort, maybe denatured alcohol, or paint thinnner may take it up..(your just going to have to experiment on this part, as I'm sure its going to be next to impossible to find out the exact "substance" he used to put the linoleum down, unless you have the can and have the directions on it...
I wish you well..
Jesse
2006-09-01 10:35:14
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answer #4
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answered by x 7
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You are going to have to rip it up as best you can using scrapers made for the purpose. Hopefully some of the adhesive is dried out and brittle. Once you have the linoleum removed, you will need to use an adhesive remover to soften it so you can scrape up as much of the residue as possible. This is not going to be a fun job but you have no choice. After you have as much of the adhesive residue removed as you can get up, you will have to sand the floor (the adhesive will clog the sandpaper so you want to get as much of the adhesive up as possible first). Many adhesives can be softened using a heat gun; I have used this many times to remove vinyl tiles. If you are not familiar with using a floor sander, hire a professional. One slip and you can gouge out the wood and ruin it.
2006-09-01 08:37:07
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answer #5
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answered by Kokopelli 7
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Sounds like you woj't be going out this weekend !
The bext way is just physical effort with scrapers. A good tool is a tile ripper - used to take tiles off walls. These are 2 handed operation so better than little scrpaers for paint etc.
You can drum or belt sand once the lino and glue are gone - it'll look like new if its decent hardwood.
I wouldn't use any chemicals, they can pit the wood and it'll never be the same again
2006-09-01 08:41:29
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answer #6
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answered by Michael H 7
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Peel up all you can- and you might try a little Heat- (paint peeler) while using a Scraper very careful not to dig in- also Turpentine might help and won't hurt the floor.
Face it the floor will need Refinish, so if all fails, use a solvent for the finish, the Glue is adherring to the Finish, not the wood.
2006-09-01 08:33:46
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answer #7
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answered by Anonymous
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Most lino is placed over luan board but it sounds like they went direct to the wood. The last time I ran into this we had to peel it up and drum sand the floor.
2006-09-01 08:28:26
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answer #8
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answered by fstopf4 4
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you might get lucky and only the edge of the linoleum is glued. A scrapper to lift tthe lin.
2006-09-01 09:05:46
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answer #9
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answered by zocko 5
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paint thinner for the adhesive. you will probably have to refinish the hardwood though
2006-09-01 08:54:10
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answer #10
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answered by jon k 4
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