I have a 1999 Olds Alero. It runs and drives great, and it usually starts up fine. About every fourth or fifth start up, the RPM's jump around and the car stalls out. I restart it and everything is fine, the RPM's go directly to between 500-1000 and it idles great. There are no warning lights lit up on the dash. It never stalls when I am driving or stopped, just those few times on start up. Any suggestions on where to look?
2006-08-31 05:47:46 · 13 answers · asked by joe h 2 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
Thanks for the good advice so far. The engine is the V 6 GLS. Also please dont bother writing "take it to the dealer." If I wanted to pay out my rear, I wouldnt have bothered asking the question here. Secondly, how do I check for a vacuum leak for the people that suggested it?
2006-08-31 06:15:14 · update #1
87 K miles. The autozone free scan only works if check lights are on also, and I dont have any of that. Thanks guys.
2006-08-31 06:16:40 · update #2
Really telling me the amount of miles and which motor you have would help but sounds like a crank or cam sensor, it does need to have scanner hooked up and check codes, if no codes then you'll need to watch scan data when it stalls, is a chance also ,if miles are high enough that carbon buildup in the throttle body could do it
2006-08-31 06:02:24 · answer #1 · answered by bestwrencher 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Every so often, cars' computers start to act up because they get some sort of wear from all the use. My guess is that if it's running fine there's no real damage to it. What you're probably looking at is the computer being dirty with grase or dirt that collects inside your car. Have the dealer or a certified garage check it out.
If it's not that, it could be a sensor that may need to be replaced in the fuel injection, and that's what's acting up. Other than that, your car sounds like a sweet ride.
2006-08-31 05:55:59 · answer #2 · answered by Nestor Q 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
It sounds as if you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Or the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)is sticking. Also there is a base idle screw that may be out of adjustment.
First look for a vacuum leak. If none is found, disconnect the IAC connector and check the base idle. If it's ok remove the IAC and clean it with Berrymans B-12 spray. Gently push the tapered
pentle back in flush with the housing and reinstall. Good Luck
Master tech 40 yrs.
2006-08-31 05:59:47 · answer #3 · answered by Cal 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Ignition coils are a common problem on these cars. its difficult to test them for the home mechanic. if its a quad-4 motor, the coils are under a silver cover on top of the motor. since the problem sounds intermittent, the computer may not display a permanent trouble code. It may however show a pending code. Go someplace like autozone and have them connect the car to an OBD-II scanner (for free). See if that gets you codes. If it does, get an engine diagnostic done at a reputable shop.
2006-08-31 05:57:55 · answer #4 · answered by kakalko 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
The battery mild shows purely one element: extreme skill draw on the battery. this suggests that the vehicle is drawing greater skill from the battery than the alternator is providing. motives: (% one, or blend) - broken alternator belt... not the fan belt. - old/susceptible alternator offering low return voltage. - Voltage regulator is unsuitable. Output of alternator is inconsistent with vehicle desires. Many automobiles have this regulator outfitted in to the alternator... others are separate. - Corrosion in wiring harness, susceptible battery cables/floor. it is amazingly accessible for a 1995 - short circuit is inflicting great skill drain. - electric powered mods which contain great custom radio, or spiffy lights are draining too lots skill. Eventual consequence: - destructive working/ undesirable MPG - Battery will drain thoroughly. vehicle won't start up, or vehicle will finally stall, and not desire to start up. Fixes: - If alternator belt isn't lacking/broken, have it checked for cracks, and slippage. - undesirable alternator/voltage regulator? maximum mechanics can degree the voltage output of your alternator assembly and verify for atypical/undesirable output. If atypical, have it replaced. - Corrosion in battery wires? those are surely replaced, and value little. With low skill they're the 1st suspects interior the wiring harness. different defective wires and short circuits are greater sturdy to diagnose. - great radio? you're able to could desire to regulate to an HO alternator, or look into greater clever relay, capacitor factors/wiring. those concepts conceal elementary electric powered issues... it is accessible that yet another equipment, which contain your A/C compressor or consistent with danger a gasoline pump is wearing out, and inflicting a skill drain because it demands greater skill to run. those issues will finally worsen, and develop into greater ordinary to diagnose.
2016-10-01 03:23:00 · answer #5 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
You did not say whether it's the first day's start up. Have the computer (Diagnostic) check. It may be a sensor that is causing the stall out.
2006-08-31 06:08:17 · answer #6 · answered by aglenn99 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Have you tried changing spark plugs. if you have a bad one you will only notice it stalling out when the car hits on that particular plug. Its usually easy to check the plugs.
2006-08-31 05:53:28 · answer #7 · answered by redhead 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I believe your answers will be found at the dealer
2006-08-31 05:52:41 · answer #8 · answered by nbr660 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
i would have it checked it may be something as simple as a vacum leak, which would not give any warning lights
2006-08-31 05:51:20 · answer #9 · answered by taildragger426 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Maybe a dirty air filter or no compresion in your exhaust system.
2006-08-31 05:53:13 · answer #10 · answered by F T 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋