I have replaced the Themostat and checked Heatercore there is no leak in the Core. I was wondering if it may be the themostat control in the cabin(heat and cold dial), or is there a seperate sensor or control relay or something I am missing. I normaly work on GM and Volvo not much Ford Exp. Oh yeah it does pump warm air for a second then it stops. Thanks for your input.
2006-08-31 00:57:16 · 17 answers · asked by Dax R 1 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
way back in the stone age ford used a vacuum switch on the heater inlet valve. what this valve did was set between the heater core inlet and the engine block. when you slid your heat selector to HOT it would cause the valve to open and let hot coolant run through the heater core--giving you heat.
when the selector know was slid over to cold the valve closed and no hot coolant would run through the heater core. the reason they did this was because in summer, even though the air conditioner is running, if you've got hot coolant running through the heater core--it will run you out of there.
i had the heater control valve go bad on a ford i had once. i've also had vacuum leaks where an old vacuum hose will spring a leak and the valve just sits in one position all the time.
that's my .02
2006-09-07 16:38:32 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
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2000 Ford Taurus SE Wagon, Problem is I have no heat comin out my vent?
I have replaced the Themostat and checked Heatercore there is no leak in the Core. I was wondering if it may be the themostat control in the cabin(heat and cold dial), or is there a seperate sensor or control relay or something I am missing. I normaly work on GM and Volvo not much Ford Exp. Oh yeah...
2015-08-06 08:41:09 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
2000 Ford Taurus Wagon
2016-09-28 06:30:14 · answer #3 · answered by lemelle 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
It sounds like you may have an airlock in your cooling system. Put the car up an ramps and remove the radiator cap. ONLY DO THIS IF THE CAR IS NOT HOT YET!!! There are typically two things that will cause this. Your radiator cap is weak, or not sealing at all; and an air lock. If your car needs water when you remove the cap, put a 50/50 mix of the appropriate antifreeze/coolant and water in the radiator to fill it. Now, with the cap off, start the car. Be ready to start adding coolant. As the car warms up, it will pull coolant in, and spit it back out. Just keep filling until it starts "throwing" water at you like geyser. Get the cap back on there right away and shut the car off. Let it cool down and remove the cap. Top it off and replace the cap. This should solve your problem. If your cap looks questionable replace it. Do not, under any circumstances use a lower pressure cap, or a colder thermostat. The engineers spec'd that car like that for a reason. I have always said," If you want to screw up a car, call an engineer", but in this case, they're right!
2006-09-07 18:22:45 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
2000 Ford Taurus No Heat
2016-12-29 18:46:55 · answer #5 · answered by ? 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
are you sure your car even has a heater control valve? some cars have coolant constantly flowing through heater core. On these vehicles a simple door shuts off the core to the air that comes out the vents.
lets say it does............
with heat on(hot dial on hot) feel heater core and see if its hot after car has ran for a few. it should remain hot if there is a full radiator/cooling system. The inlet hose should be hot as well as the core. Make sure fluid is running through core by checking outlet hose tempature.
you made it sound like hot air comes out then the air that is blowing out turns cold. if thats the case check coolant level and make sure hot/cold switch is workin. It will switch the heater control valve by opening and closing the line. Just watch it while moving the hot cold selector. If you have no heater control valve then it will just be a door that opens and closes to expose the core to let air be pushed through to come out vents
2006-09-07 16:48:37 · answer #6 · answered by repo2agent 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
In addition to the blend doors, there is a heater shutoff valve. It is vacuum operated also. It is near the firewall, inline with the heater hoses. It will ahve a small vacuum line attached to it.
Actually i'm inclined to agree with the low coolant level diagnosis, since it heats briefly then stops.: check your level at the radiator, not just the coolant recovery tank.
2006-09-04 11:29:05 · answer #7 · answered by econofix 4 · 1⤊ 0⤋
The core could still be plugged. To check this, warm the car up and check the hoses leading the the core. If they're both warm, you're all set. If one is warm an the other is cold, the core could be plugged. There could be an air bubble in the system as well. You'll have to remove the dashboard to get to the heater core on this car if it needs replacement. It it's plugged then it needs to be replaced as flushing it don't work. Hope this helps.
2006-09-04 04:45:13 · answer #8 · answered by Anonymous · 1⤊ 0⤋
I had that problem before and it was the blend door. They wanted to charge me like $400.00 because they have to take the dash out. I fixed it my self. What you do is run your air sometimes and sometimes switch over to heat. After about a month your door will open both ways.
2006-09-07 13:11:38 · answer #9 · answered by James Henderson 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
THIS COULD BE SEVERAL PROBLEMS , LOW COOLANT LEVEL ,HEATER CONTROLVALVE , THE CLUE YOU GAVE ! THE SECOND IT STOPS ,RUNNING I GUESS?. THERE IS A FRESH AIR BLEND DOOR THAT IS VACUUM OPERATED AND IS EITHER HELD OPEN OR CLOSED BY VACUUM ,ie ENGINE VACUUM. THAT CONTROLS THE VARIES FUNTIONS OF THE HEATER CONTROLS AS WELL WHILE THERE IS VACUUM,CHECK FOR SMALL VACUUM DIAPHRAM LOCATED NEAR HEATER BOX OR UNDER DASH PANEL PASS SIDE OF VIEHICLE.
2006-08-31 03:42:53 · answer #10 · answered by Bruce G 1 · 1⤊ 0⤋