I have an inground pool that's in bad shape and would like information or fixing it myself.?

Question

The pool has fiberglass side walls which seem to be in good shape. below the walls looks to be the problem. The bottom needs to be redone and a new liner added. I'm not sure about the pump and filter system, I will have that tested. Just looking for some direction and wether it's worth fixing an an Idea of cost. I'm pretty handy and think I could do most of the work myself with some direction.

Answer 1

Actually, the bottom will be a minor worry. It's relatively easy and cheap to repair heaves. Even if you had to re do the entire bottom, 3 people can have it done in under a day, start to finnish and rubble removal. It's the walls I'm concerned about. Are these by any chance a yellowish, approximately 10 inch wide tongue and groove wall panels? If so, I've come across this manufaturer once before. It wasn't good news. The material they make it from, had deteriorated and the panels brittle to the point we couldn't garantee if the pool would still be there in 5 years. (it was a refurb job)
If, on the other hand, it's a whiteish 8 foot panel, no worries. I haven't seen many of them, but those I have seen have held up.
Steel panels are the material of choice for most manufaturers around where I live ( Toronto).
Costs: You don't give a pool size, so I'll go mid way and give you approximates for a 18 x36.
30 mil liner, basic pattern about 1200 canadian dollars
Bottom repairs: depends on how bad. You'll need portland,sand and vermiculite, at least. You may need concrete to patch a hole in any shell (if they made one for the pool) and possibly hydraulic cement if you have water comming in through the damaged areas. I've never seen a bottom that can't be fixed and never at great cost. Concrete pools (gunite) yes, vinyl ingrounds, no, it's easy and cheap.
Your pool equipment:: This all can depend on how old the equipment is. Even if the pump still spins, it will be worth the time and money to swap out an old brass one for a newer model pump. Same with the filter. Those old cast iron tanks all need replacement sooner or later as repairing the lateral assembly inside, gets to be impossible after the top bolts have rusted in place. If both filter and pump are made of plastics, that's a helpful sign that you'll at least be able to repair any issue with them and won't really need to go new. To give you an idea of cost, a 1.5 hp hayward super pump retails at around 550 dollars and a 24 inch sand filter (hayward) is about 500 dollars retail. #20 silica sand is 8 bucks per 50 lb bag, you'll need 300 lbs. If you know electrical and plumbing, they're easy to install. If you choose to stick to your original equipment and give them a try, you should at least change the sand in that filter and while you're at it, inspect the lateral assembly inside and replace as needed. There's really nothing else you can do, until you have water running through it. It'll work or it won't. If it doesn't, save that sand for the new filter you'll be installing.
Same with the pump. I'd be changing the shaft seal on it after ensuring the motor runs ok. That's it until water time. (shaft seal is about 15 dollars)
If this pool is heated, you'll want a furnace guy in. This isn't something that any home owner should tackle. Last one I saw that did, burnt his cabana, his bar and his pool equipment down.
One thing, that you haven't mentioned is pool plumbing. It can always be redone underground, but it's best to find any issues before you start on the actual pool reno. You may be slinging some dirt around your yard and you don't want to mess up a nice new bottom patch job you did with a bunch of debris getting knocked into the pool from that pile on the deck. Get your lines pressure tested. You can do this yourself, if you have the proper tools (air compressor to pressurize to 20 psi, assorted plugs and a pressure tester (rent one from a pool shop) If the lines are viable, great, if not your best bet is to get a pro in for this. We can locate leaks under 6 inches of concrete, 4 feet down within 6 inches. I doubt you will be able to. This part is all experience. A typical pressure test and locate leak if there is one (we do it all at once) is about 70 dollars, sometimes cheaper. The actual repair is usually easy and you could dig it out yourself saving 150 - 600 dollars, depending on the access.
I'm afraid that's all I can offer, given the information.
Good luck with it and if you know what end of a screw driver to use ( I've seen some classic cases, lol), you shouldn't have any issues you can't overcome.

Answer 2

relies upon on the quantity of airborne dirt and dirt. If a an inch or 2 or 3, it truly is vacuumed to the waste line. i'm uncertain approximately better than that. Pump it to the clear out, and it would be clogged in minutes. First upload chlorine to kill the algae so which you are going to discover the backside, any insect larva, and the actual concern of the top component of the pool. might besides take a water pattern to a pool grant keep. If the calcium is undesirable, they might advise changing the water. yet you have gotten black algae that eats in the process the shell. ideal plan is probable pump it out. If a number of airborne dirt and dirt, use bucket and shovel. I did that in the time of 1994 for about 3 feet of clay interior the backside of a pool, with a foot or so of water above it. solid exercising. Then have the pool acid washed. Fill it up, get the chemical compounds balanced by using a pool provider. Get all of the kit wiped sparkling and checked. Filling a pool isn't that high priced, according to threat $35 for the water. Get the clear out working for an afternoon. Then dive in.

Answer 3

If it is at the bottom of the walls like you say- It all needs re-done- U B unlucky on this one- Big project...hope the system still works.